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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Filter Change/Lift Pump Questions

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Turbo Life Saver

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I bought a 2001 late last year. I changed the fuel filter (first thing) at 40K miles. During the change I had some trouble getting the engine to start. I finally got her to kick off after bleeding the air out of the injection pump schrader valve.



Questions:



1. I am going on a trip to visit family (All Ford fans) and the truck is due for a fuel filter change. With all of the lift pump problems, I am scared to mess with the system and not get the truck started again. Would you still recommend changing the filter or wait till after the trip?



2. Based on the trouble I experienced during my first filter change, would this suggest that the stock pump is failing?



3. What is the best way to install the fuel pressure gauge in the system? Is there an existing port on the side of the pump?



4. One of the posts suggested that the pump is mounted in a location that does not meet the Cummins specifications. Does someone have the data on the proper mounting specifications for the pump? Would this limit the premature failures?
 
I can not answer your questions but when you changed the fuel filter did you fill the filter up with diesel before you try-ed to start it?This is what I do-Drain filter and fill cannister about 3/4 full with diesel,put filter in and cap on,bump starter and lift pump will run filling filter with fuel several times,turn key on and lift pump will run again and after it stops start. Never had any problems. Well first time we changed filter on my sons 99 we could not get it to start-I think we did not put enough in. Had to hold go pedal to floor and it took several times before it started. He hasn't had any problems since and he's probably got 130000+and he changed filter every 10000.
 
Fuel pressure gauge a must!!

00 to 02 I think have a port on the bottom of the fuel filter housing that you can tap in to for pressure. You say filter change is do, how many miles it could still be very clean depending on the quality of fuel you buy some change fuel filters a little early in my opinion. Definitely get the fuel pressure checked if you can't do it your self. As far as the pump location it IS were cummins mounts it on the left rear of engine it is believed that the pump is a better pusher pump than a sucker, so some have moved pump closer to fuel tank and others have done away with the stock pump in favor of a better stronger pump in the frame rail near tank. Get the pressure check and get a gauge installed so you can watch it in the future.



Craig
 
Sorry for the delay in my response!



Ischultz,



I did not fill the filter housing with fuel before starting. Unfortunately, I followed the directions in my DC manual instead of going with instinct. After having trouble with the engine starting, I wondered if I should have added some fuel.





Csevers,



Right now am getting ready to click over 52K miles. I believe the fuel that I have been getting is pretty good quality. Do you think that I should run a little longer? Do you have any suggestions for gauge packages?
 
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Filling the filter is a good way to go but I never did like the idea of adding fuel to the filter on the ISB because it will go to the VP unfiltered. To me there is no such thing as clean fuel unless its been filtered to the required micron level. So I'd come up with a homemade filter rig to clean any fuel you bring home in a can to prevent dirt from getting in there. One small speck of crud can cause damage. Maybe some 10 micron filter paper or something like that just to fill a jar.



On ISC's the manual absolutely prohibits prefilling the filter cause the CAPS injection pumps will trash themselves with any dirt whatsoever. VP-44's cant be too far behind. ISC's use a purge pump to fill the filter. Hard to believe is a Carter like ours too!!! But the CAPS have a gear drive pump inside to take over when the system is purged of air unlike the VP.



Not saying filling the filter is bad... just make sure there is some level of cleaning before hand. I fill them all the time on older Cat engines. The older injection systems seem to tolerate a little more crud than these newer "emission" injection pumps. If you hold the diesel up to a light, you probably cant see stuff that can cause damage. 10-20 micron is pretty small. FWIW>
 
I agree with your suggestion to filter the fuel before filling the filter housing. I would rather let the system do the purging. It is a hassle to mess with filtering and adding fuel. I think that I am going to just change the filter and hope for the best. If it does not start, I will deal with the situation in an appropriate manner.



Ncostello,



Have you had any problems with your fuel system? I have gotten bits and pieces of info on people installing a third pump at the tank to prevent the LP from killing itself. Others seem to be buying a spare pump incase the existing fails. I hate treating symptoms and not problems! Have you performed any modifications to your fuel system?
 
Additional pumps back by the tank would be a second lift pump as the stock engine only has one mounted to the engine.



You could say I have performed a few modifications to the stock system. One pump, mounted near the tank. Its really working well. Primes and purges in a matter of seconds, drives all day long in the 14psi range. Occasionally dips into the 13psi range under load... idles above 15 psi. Funny thing is I notice my pressure actually does better when I'm at 1/2 tank instead of full. And it "recovers" during a load situation. Climbing hills on the highway under some heavy pedal will dip the psi down and it will climb back up during the pull to near idle pressure. Interesting.



lift pump mods



lift pump/filter story



Lots of reading there. Plus you can check out my filters, etc in the readers rigs gallery "ncostello". You can access all my photos from the first link above by choosing different albums.



What I did isn't for everyone but its working very well for me. Its also not the only fix out there. Pusher pumps (2nd pump) also seem to work well. I just didn't want two pumps. Filter changes are much less of a headache now too.



Simply moving the pump back by the tank (in a single pump configuration) can be very inexpensive and effective if you still use the stock filter. In fact it can be done without having to buy any fancy racing type fittings or hose.
 
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Thanks for the info. I am kinda jumping in the middle of all of the lift pump issues. There are so many conversations and new terminology regarding this subject. Being a new TDR member leaves me playing the catch-up game for a while.



I have to leave town today, but I will review your modification links when I return. Thanks for your suggestions!
 
Take your time and dont get in too big of a hurry. If your having immediate problems, a pump replacement in the stock position will be fine until you decide what you really want to do. Its not that bad really... just alot of info and ideas on how to fix. After you consume it all you'll be able to decide.
 
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