Fuel Filter, First Change

[Cliffman]

Well it's finally time for my first fuel filter change and I thought I'd get all the "do's" and "Don’ts" before I attempted the great feat. Had the Prime Loc on my old 94 but this one looks a wee bit different #ad
Oh, and by the way, your to "undervalved" to answer this question Pinestien. LOL.

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2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, Long Bed, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE) Loven the shift thing (Arrrrrh), 3:54, SLT+, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, 18,000 LB 5th Wheel Hitch, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, BDs E-Brake, Rhino Liner (gray), Velvet ride shackles, cup smoothy, Power Edge box / EZ Box w/elbo, DD Stage III injectors, McLeod Dual Disk Clutch, K&N, SPA Gauges, Jardine Exhaust, 16cm turbo housing. Love the smell of diesel in the morning. Hope your watchen DC cuz every thing you see here is a big lie, Hehe.

[This message has been edited by Cliffman (edited 02-12-2001). ]

 

[madams]

Cliffman . .

Piece of cake. Less than 30 mins for your first time . . less than 15 once you got one change under your belt.

My biggest "lesson learned" experience was to stay away from the friggin dealer. I got raped for the filter $47 bucks!

Go to gino's! $16ish

The owners manual is real clear . . Check the size . . but if I remember correctly it called for a 1 1/8 socket to remove the cover. There was a TSB in issue 30 describing the reason for the socket which should have been corrected on the 2001's. Just read over that FYI.

The hardest part was getting the seal loose the first time. With that clear coating every where . . the cover required a little effort to loosen.

Once loose . . remove the canister cover and the filter will come out since the filter is affixed to the cover.

Look down in the bottom of the canister to see if there are any junk down there . . clean all that up. Now wipe the "WIF" contacts with a lint free cloth, and you're ready to button it all back up.

Snap in the new filter to the cover.

Optional Step: Before I started . . I drained about 20oz of clean fuel from the drain tube into a clean container so when I went back with the new filter I could refill the canister.

I felt this prevented any problems with the lift pump and bleeding the air out . . BUT definately not a manditory proceedure . . cycling the lift pump a few times until a free fuel flow came out the drain tube is all thats really necessary.

You'll need an in lb torq wrench to tighten the cover back up. 25 in lbs??? its stamped on the top of the cover.

Don't forget to replace the o-ring and wet it with diesel.

Since there is an o-ring . . there's a little squish to overcome with the torq wrench. You may have to check this a few times.

Once its all buttoned back up, look for leaks out of the drain tube. They don't always close . . DOUBLE CHECK for leaks.

There are several GOOD threads on the board on this topic. good luck . . and post your experience.

Michael


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00 Driftwood 2500 ST QC ISB LB 5spd 3:54 LSD Tow & Camper Groups . . SunnyBrook 33FKS Travel Trailer

my photos

[This message has been edited by madams (edited 02-11-2001). ]

 

[Cliffman]

madams,

Thanks for the advice. I know what you mean regarding the cost of the filter #ad
. I made the mistake of buying my first one at the dealer. Geno's, here I come #ad
. One question, does the O-Ring come with the filter? I guess I could go out in the garage and look but it's too cold and I'm too lazy #ad
. Also, did you leave your truck running when you drained the fuel out of the water separator bleed tube?

 

[Neal Cassady]

Cliffman,

Madams advice was right on the money, let me add a couple of things I learned on my first change.

Open the drain valve and let it sit open for a while, you may have to jiggle the drain valve to get good flow, this will allow some of the fuel trapped in the filter to drain out.

Clean the area around the cap before you remove it, especially the area near the intake manifold. There will be lots of grit hanging around.

When lifting the lid and filter from the housing have some shop towels or a catch basin handy, fuel will be dripping. When you separate the lid and the filter be careful, fuel will spill out, it can be messy.

Use the new O-ring, it comes with the filter. I lubed mine with clean motor oil.

Replace the filter and lid assembly, keep an eye on the O-ring as you tighten it down, it may try to jump out of the seal area. I tightened mine by hand. The ribs on the lid provide a good grip. You can always use the wrench if it leaks.

If you have an extra ten bucks, stop by your local Cummins shop and pick up a replacement lid (part# 392675800 S) just in case the lid cracks. While you are there pick up an extra oil pan drain plug and gasket if you plan on keeping the factory setup. Around five bucks for the pair, better to have them and never need them.

Dave D

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2001. 5 QC, LB, 4x4, Auto, 3. 54, Everything but Leather, Bright Silver Metallic, ARE K Series, Diprocal EGT, Boost and transmission Temp in an Autometer Dash Pod, Westin CPS Platinum Step Bars - Black on Stainless

 

[Cliffman]

Thanks Dave, great advice #ad
. Are the lids prone to cracking? The Cummings dealer is kind of a long drive. Do you know if DC carries the lid? I'd pay a little extra rather than make the drive to Cummings. I learned my lesson regarding the oil plug with my 94. I now have the EZ drain plug from Geno's installed in my 01 #ad
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