Fuel Filter Fun

[RUSSELL5000]

I have a 2012. I had the dealer install the Mopar Severe Duty Filter kit a number of years ago. This is, I believe, basically the frame-mounted fuel water separator on the more recent model years.

I have had the dealer change the fuel filters in the past - primarily because the frame mounted filter was hard to come by. Good supply now at Geno's, so figured I would give it a go.

(1) Why is the plastic filter cap so tight on the engine mounted fuel filter? I see the specs are like 22 ft lbs torque - does not seem to me should be hard to get off. I am going to reconfigure my extensions, etc., per photos I see in another post on this forum. I am using the socket from Geno's specifically for the plastic cap. Can't believe how tight the cap is - the result of poor work at dealership?

Does it make sense to purchase the aluminum filter cap from Geno's?

(2) I don't think the dealer ever installed the wiring harness for the severe duty filter kit. I noticed that the wire leaves the end of the frame mounted filer, went up to the frame, and was tied to a line - and stopped there! I am searching the web now for documentation on the severe duty filter kit now, but it seems to me that: (1) there is no heater, and (2) there is no water-in-fuel sensor. Do I have that about right?

The kind of things that make me think I should do all maintenance myself.

Thanks.

 

[TFucili]

As to #1 it could be overtorqued, but there is quite a bit of "stiction" to get it moving after it has been on there for a while.

 

[EDankievitch]

The O ring swells a bit an makes it tough to get off. I feel the aluminum cap is well worth it. I destroyed two plastic caps trying to remove them.

 

[gsbrockman]

The O ring swells a bit an makes it tough to get off. I feel the aluminum cap is well worth it. I destroyed two plastic caps trying to remove them.

How did you destroy two caps?
I had my 2014 3500 for 362k miles, and my 2018 4500 is at 257k miles. Between the two trucks.....I’ve performed about 41 fuel filter changes and still ran OE caps and never had any issues.

 

[EDankievitch]

Hex part of the cap would strip. I’ve even ground down a socket so it would grab better. When the O ring swells it fights you. Slow an steady pressure on the wrench is the only way it’s coming off. Since I went with the Aluiminum cap no more issues.

 

[gsbrockman]

Hex part of the cap would strip. I’ve even ground down a socket so it would grab better. When the O ring swells it fights you. Slow an steady pressure on the wrench is the only way it’s coming off. Since I went with the Aluiminum cap no more issues.

What size socket?

 

[EDankievitch]

11/16” 6 point. It’s a very snug fit but I’ve had two covers strip, break the Hex part off. I never had an issue with the 05 I had before. But both the 12 and 13 have a royal pain. Until I went with the aluminum cap

 

[gsbrockman]

11/16” 6 point. It’s a very snug fit but I’ve had two covers strip, break the Hex part off. I never had an issue with the 05 I had before. But both the 12 and 13 have a royal pain. Until I went with the aluminum cap

I’m quite sure that’s the incorrect size; all of the instruction sheets specify 1&1/8th inch OR 28 mm.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/fuel-filter-cover-removal.255456/page-2#post-2475678
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[EDankievitch]

11/8“ is much larger an sloppy than 11/16”

 

[gsbrockman]

11/8“ is much larger an sloppy than 11/16”

So.....I guess that’s why I have purchased zero caps and you have purchased two caps....

 

[HPSimpson]

I’m quite sure that’s the incorrect size; all of the instruction sheets specify 1&1/8th inch OR 28 mm.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/fuel-filter-cover-removal.255456/page-2#post-2475678Yes brockman that's the socket I been using 28mm, I cannot understand why they are stipping the nut. I use couple long 3/4 drive extension applied pressure slowly turn no problem.
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[Cummins12V98]

Don’t think a 1-1/16” socket will fit. I use a MAC 6 point on my 15 and on my 11 with no issues.

Socket, universal joint and around 12” extension with a long handle ratchet. Steady downward pressure.

 

[gsbrockman]

Don’t think a 1-1/16” socket will fit. I use a MAC 6 point on my 15 and on my 11 with no issues.

Socket, universal joint and around 12” extension with a long handle ratchet. Steady downward pressure.

I imagine it will if one drives it on with a hammer

 

[kthaxton]

Plastic thread on plastic threads have more friction than steel...plus there is a lot of thread contact area.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I imagine it will if one drives it on with a hammer

No doubt!!!

 

[EDankievitch]

I’ve never had to force the socket on. It fits snugly. The issue that I had was with the O rings swelling. The O rings were always larger when removing them. Only way to remove the cap was with slow steady pressure. If you tried to force or rush it the hex part would strip. I never had an issue with the fuel canister on the 02 or the O5. Life got better with the aluminum cap.

 

[HPSimpson]

Yes the diesel fuel will swell the o-ring the o-ring is one time use, when you install new filter you put new ring on, I wipe o-ring with diesel fuel seems to work better .

 

[gsbrockman]

I wipe o-ring with diesel fuel seems to work better .

Better......than what?

The instruction sheet plainly spells out to use clean engine oil......

 

[HPSimpson]

Better......than what?

The instruction sheet plainly spells out to use clean engine oil......

What instruction sheet wasn't in filter box? Besides what?

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Last night I made progress on this. I had screwed together some 2x12 to make a ramp for the truck (so I do not have to jack up/down); gives me nine inches. I positioned the sections of my ramp around the front of the truck so that I could stand on them (big help on EGR service as well). This gave me a better position to provide downward pressure. I changed to using a long breaker bar rather than a ratchet, and assembled extensions to a convenient length and used a universal joint and the socket from Geno's.

I could exert a lot of leverage quite easily with the long breaker bar while applying consistent downward pressure. Just kept the tension on and the cap slowly turned free. I guess the secret is to obtain the position to where you can apply the force in the direction required in a controlled manner.

I don't really like this configuration: (1) the o-ring does not have a strongly defined groove - I examined the old one carefully before removing and double-checked the instructions so I think I have installed correctly, and (2) I did apply a light film of oil to the o-ring and cap threads but when I was tightening up the cap still "skipped" and tightened down. The canister obviously works well enough, I just think it would be better if it was metal.

I changed the frame mounted (spin-on) filter. Straight-forward, albeit messy, job.

Final question: splashed some diesel fuel on the connector at the back of the canister when changing - any concern? I thought maybe I should disconnect, clean as best I can, apply some dielectric grease, and reconnect. Or nothing to worry about?

Thanks.