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fuel filter instruction for 2004.5 ho

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can anyone send me direction on how to change the fuel fliter on my 2004. 5 ho cummins 4x4 ? dealer want 40 - 50 bucks for filter and 108. 00 to install it. please email me at -- email address removed --
 
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you need a ratchet with a 1-1/8" socket [or a 1-1/8" combo wrench]

drain filter housing [yellow lever on base of housing] - close when done

unscrew the filter cap

remove oil filter

remove old o-ring off cap thread base

visually inspect filter housing and see if there is any debris in the bottom. if there is you can clean it out, but make sure no dirt gets into the filter stand pipe [clean side]

stick new filter in housing

lube new o-ring with fuel oil or lube oil or grease

install cap back on housing [snug is good, too tight and you can split the cap]

bump engine with starter to prime system for ±30sec or so

start engine, and visually inspect for leaks around filter housing
 
Perfect instructions. Except you'll want to remove the "fuel" filter not the "oil" filter. :D



Thought I would clarify. You never know. Would hate for someone to take off the oil filter... :-laf
 
Thanks Nick. I haven't changed my fuel filter yet, but when I do I will use your instructions. A little different from the 2nd generations.
 
nickleinonen said:
you need a ratchet with a 1-1/8" socket [or a 1-1/8" combo wrench]

drain filter housing [yellow lever on base of housing] - close when done

unscrew the filter cap

remove oil filter

remove old o-ring off cap thread base

visually inspect filter housing and see if there is any debris in the bottom. if there is you can clean it out, but make sure no dirt gets into the filter stand pipe [clean side]

stick new filter in housing

lube new o-ring with fuel oil or lube oil or grease

install cap back on housing [snug is good, too tight and you can split the cap]

bump engine with starter to prime system for ±30sec or so

start engine, and visually inspect for leaks around filter housing



Nick, what brand of fuel filter do you recommend?
 
I've heard of peopl saying that they cleaned the canister out while they were doing the change. This may be a dumb question but who do you do that? I can see wipng it out with a lint free cloth or something but really my hands are too big. Any tips on this???
 
nickleinonen said:
you need a ratchet with a 1-1/8" socket [or a 1-1/8" combo wrench]

drain filter housing [yellow lever on base of housing] - close when done

unscrew the filter cap

remove oil filter

remove old o-ring off cap thread base

visually inspect filter housing and see if there is any debris in the bottom. if there is you can clean it out, but make sure no dirt gets into the filter stand pipe [clean side]

stick new filter in housing

lube new o-ring with fuel oil or lube oil or grease

install cap back on housing [snug is good, too tight and you can split the cap]

bump engine with starter to prime system for ±30sec or so

start engine, and visually inspect for leaks around filter housing



I did my fuel filter last week using the above directions. I didn't think it could be that easy after being raped by the dealer last time around to the tune of about $160. But it was, which made me angrier at myself for having it done by the dealer in the first place, especially without asking how much it would be. The 300% markup on the filter and the 1 hour (????) labor charge caused them to lose a customer. I bought a filter from Genos for $12 and it took me about 15 minutes, and I had never done it before.



Scott
 
Dieselhed said:
Perfect instructions. Except you'll want to remove the "fuel" filter not the "oil" filter. :D



Thought I would clarify. You never know. Would hate for someone to take off the oil filter... :-laf





i never noticed that... ;) i usually call the filters engine lube oil filter and engine fuel oil filter. . so both are oil [#2 is fuel oil... ]



but good catch
 
SChen said:
I did my fuel filter last week using the above directions. I didn't think it could be that easy after being raped by the dealer last time around to the tune of about $160. But it was, which made me angrier at myself for having it done by the dealer in the first place, especially without asking how much it would be. The 300% markup on the filter and the 1 hour (????) labor charge caused them to lose a customer. I bought a filter from Genos for $12 and it took me about 15 minutes, and I had never done it before.



Scott



I second what you say as far as it being easy. The $35 for this form has been paid for several times over.



One note on taking the lid off for any first timers. It took me several turns before I noticed the lid actually breaking away from the canister. The dealer must have really torqued it on there.
 
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Robert, one small side note, occasionally the filter will not drain by just opening the valve on the bottom. If this happens just leave the drain open and turn on the key for a few of seconds and then the fuel will continue to drain.

This is really a simple job, I once did it in a campground with a crescent wrench and two empty beer bottles.



Scotty
 
nickleinonen said:
you need a ratchet with a 1-1/8" socket [or a 1-1/8" combo wrench]
drain filter housing [yellow lever on base of housing] - close when done
unscrew the filter cap
remove oil filter
remove old o-ring off cap thread base
visually inspect filter housing and see if there is any debris in the bottom. if there is you can clean it out, but make sure no dirt gets into the filter stand pipe [clean side]
stick new filter in housing
lube new o-ring with fuel oil or lube oil or grease
install cap back on housing [snug is good, too tight and you can split the cap]
bump engine with starter to prime system for ±30sec or so
start engine, and visually inspect for leaks around filter housing

This is exactly how I did it except I snapped the new filter back on the cap and then put it all on the canister at once. The cap had those little clips on it that I could tell snapped around the top of the filter so I figured this was how it was done.
I could be wrong doing it this way but it seems to have worked.
 
Depressurizing ?

What about depressurizing the fuel line? I can only find "gasoline" fuel system de-press in my Haynes manual but not for "diesel". I am obviously missing something here, could someone please insult my intelligence (or lack of) and tell me how to de-press my CTD ? Thanks
 
ELK311 said:
What about depressurizing the fuel line? I can only find "gasoline" fuel system de-press in my Haynes manual but not for "diesel". I am obviously missing something here, could someone please insult my intelligence (or lack of) and tell me how to de-press my CTD ? Thanks

That is not needed... ... ..... no residual pressure in the filter cannister.





Bob
 
Prairie Dog said:
Robert, one small side note, occasionally the filter will not drain by just opening the valve on the bottom. If this happens just leave the drain open and turn on the key for a few of seconds and then the fuel will continue to drain.

This is really a simple job, I once did it in a campground with a crescent wrench and two empty beer bottles. Scotty



Yep, it's a real easy job, if I remember right I had all six bottles empty before I finished the job Oo.
 
WMcGuire said:
Yep, it's a real easy job, if I remember right I had all six bottles empty before I finished the job Oo.



That's about right, you have to stand back and look at the find job you did. And, probably cleaner than that $160 place. :D
 
Done-it !

10 minutes and a container for fuel and I saved $150 ! Piece of cake and now I can do it more frequently. Old filter was very grey to black in color. No water in canister what-so-ever though, nor in the drained fuel. Good thing I guess. Thanks for all the help !
 
I just had my fuel filter changed at the s... dealer, on Saturday. The tech was nice enough to teach me how to do it, so that's MY job from now on.
 
I did mine last weekend, and the instructions (including your note on the cap having 'snap' clips around the outer rim of the top of the filter are correct.



Picked up the new 7-micron fuel filter at Cummins NW here in Portland for $14. 94.



Mark

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barleysoda said:
This is exactly how I did it except I snapped the new filter back on the cap and then put it all on the canister at once. The cap had those little clips on it that I could tell snapped around the top of the filter so I figured this was how it was done.

I could be wrong doing it this way but it seems to have worked.
 
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