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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel filter kit

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I checked out that Geno's kit. It does not have a gauge fitting. To run my gauge would require a tee off the outlet side, which could vibrate and fracture.
 
Check out Vulcan Performance. Com. They offer a big line kit for a reasonable price from the fuel filter to the vp. Eliminates the restrictive banjo fittings and they also offer a tee that allows you to come out of the filter and runs the line to the vp off of one branch and a fuel pressure gauge off the other branch.
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The fitting on the right is what Im describing its more of a 90 with an 1/8 npt port on the top for the gauge.

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Get a drilled bajo bolt to replace the one on the IP inlet then run a grease gun hose as an isolator. If you replace the line from the filter to the IP then put your T in the rubber line.
 
Cerb, have you ever ran a grease gun hose? From my understanding, the whole point of an isolator is to protect the gauge from fuel pressure spikes from the vp. My personal setup (with a mechanical gauge) is a needle valve. I closed it all the way and then just barely cracked it open enough to watch the f. p. slowly come up on the gauge. Ive been almost 3 yrs to date with no issues. I check it every now and again with my test gauge to make sure its still accurate.
 
Cerb, have you ever ran a grease gun hose? From my understanding, the whole point of an isolator is to protect the gauge from fuel pressure spikes from the vp.

I run the grease gun hoses any time I want to isolate the sender from the engine vibrations. The newer electric senders HATE vibrations so they get isolated with the hoses. Fuel, boost, oil, which ever to keep the sender off the engine. The OP expressed a concern about cracking the fitting on the engine so suggested the grease gun hose. I have cracked copper pipe, ruined senders, broke plastic mounted to the engine. Never when it is isolated.

What you are talking about with the needle valve is a snubber not an isolator. If the snubber is needed, I run it on the end of the hose not on the engine. The fittings work on the engine also but I have had them break.
 
I also use a grease gun hose to isolate the sender. The sender is ziptied to the firewall harness. I won't ever mount any gauge on the engine.
 
I have a small needle valve on the top of the canister and use plastic fuel line from there to my mechanical gauge in the truck. Learned the importance of the valve after I trashed my first gauge a short time after installing (when I had my 00). Installed the needle valve on the advice of a friend and havent had any problems since. Running the same set up on my 98. 5 now. Guess Ive just gotten lucky. Thanks for the explanation, Ive heard a few people mention it since I joined TDR, just never knew their reasoning until now.
 
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