Fuel Filter Replacement

[Kory]

I've owned my 03, 3500 for about 9 months now. Wanted to know if there are any things I should know before changing the fuel filter. For example... . any tricks to make it easier, or things to watch out for. Thanks!

 

[JApol]

A VERY large drip pan. On the front of the canister there is a yellow lever, push that towards the fender, that will release the fuel pressure, once you find a wrench big enough to fit the top and small enough for you to use it you can get the cover off. Once you have broken the seal, the rest of the fuel will drain out. Get a CLEAN lint free rag and clean out the gunk that has accumulated at the bottom.

Get your new filter ready and screw it on.



The reason for the BIG drip pan is that when I do it fuel hits everything on the way down.



Once you have everything back together turn the key to ON, not start for 30 seconds, then bump the starter, DO NOT start yet. Wait for the pump to quit running and start your truck. It may die once or twice getting the air out of the system. Usually my truck will studder a little but rarely dies.

 

[JDiepstra]

I would agree with all of that but I will say this... I do not wipe out the canister with a rag and I always bump the starter to run the fuel pump twice. I have never had hesitation or studder that way.

 

[rbattelle]

Check out Nick's post (#2) in this thread. He gives a good procedure.



Here it is reformatted and slightly edited... Nick, I hope you don't mind (or take offense):

1. You need a ratchet with a 1-1/8" socket [or a 1-1/8" combo wrench].

2. Drain filter housing [yellow lever on base of housing] - close when done.

3. Unscrew the filter cap.

4. Remove old filter.

5. Remove old o-ring off cap thread base.

6. Visually inspect filter housing and see if there is any debris in the bottom. if there is you can clean it out, but make sure no dirt gets into the filter stand pipe [clean side].

7. Stick new filter in housing. It snaps into place in the cap. [added by RB]

8. Lube new o-ring with a little fuel oil or engine oil. [edited by RB]

9. Install cap back on housing [snug is good, too tight and you can split the cap]

10. Bump engine with starter to prime system for ±30sec or so.

11. Start engine, and visually inspect for leaks around filter housing.

I like JDiepstra's suggestion of doing step 10 twice.



However, on engines starting in 2004. 5 (and any pre-2004. 5 engines that have had the ECM flashed), the ECM programming was changed so that the fuel pump will run for 30 seconds after the key is turned to RUN, with no need to bump the starter! On those engines, it's not necessary to bump the starter.



Technically, the filter torque spec is 25 ft-lb, but I think that's probably a bit much. I normally just "snug" it, as Nick suggests.



Ryan

 

[JDiepstra]

Check out Nick's post (#2) in this thread. He gives a good procedure.



Here it is reformatted and slightly edited... Nick, I hope you don't mind (or take offense):







I like JDiepstra's suggestion of doing step 10 twice.



However, on engines starting in 2004. 5 (and any pre-2004. 5 engines that have had the ECM flashed), the ECM programming was changed so that the fuel pump will run for 30 seconds after the key is turned to RUN, with no need to bump the starter! On those engines, it's not necessary to bump the starter.



Technically, the filter torque spec is 25 ft-lb, but I think that's probably a bit much. I normally just "snug" it, as Nick suggests.



Ryan

Oh, thanks for letting me know about the fuel pump thing. I will check that out!

 

[DeezelDood]

I bought some clear plastic tube, and a barb hose connector, to extend the drain, with some tie wraps, to a spot just under the radiator. Stick the tube in a container and drain her out, no mess. Be nice if Dodge would build them with a longer drain tube. I also recommend the aluminum fuel filter socket that Geno's sells. It's a 6-point, low profile, 3/8 drive. Short handle is easy to maneuver and harder to overtighten. I carry a spare filter, wrench, and a spare filter cap in my truck at all times.

 

[Kory]

Thanks for all the good info! Appreciate it all!

 

[hsmith]

I have a pneumatic suction gun. Works like a vacuum. Sucks all the crud from the housing.

 

[Edgemann55]

A old piece of garden hose works great too as I can slip it up over the clear drain tube and extend it to a pan-no need for clamps.

 

[rbattelle]

Where Credit Is Due

Check out Nick's post (#2) in this thread. He gives a good procedure.

In the latest issue of TDR I noticed this thread was printed. In particular, my response was printed, but instead of giving credit to nickleinonen for the filter change procedure, they edited my post to read "another member".



I thought I would take a second to point out that the credit for that procedure belongs entirely to Nick, NOT me as credited in the magazine. I merely copied his work to this thread for reference.



Ryan