Fuel Filter

[DGFoster]

I was wondering,I keep reading about all these guys having priming problems after fuel filter changes,I know a guy that has the same truck as me and everytime he changes his fuel filter,it takes him a half a day to get it to run again,I have changed mine every 10,000 or so and never had to do anything,I drop in the filter put the cap on and it fires right up,it has 65000 on it now.
But he has to fill the canister and refill it over and over,he has had the fuel system checked 3 times and they cant find anything wrong,lift pump is pumping within specs from what he tells me.
I have seen guys changing them at the truck stops along the way with the same problems,quite a few as a matter a fact.
I dont add fuel to the canister at all,should I be?
I dont lose that much fuel when changing filters,can someone shead some light on this:
thanks

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Dave Foster:
2000 3500,Light Driftwood,Quad cab
4x4,4:10 gears,Westach Gauges,K&N,Auto with DTT VB and TC,DD1 injectors and Boost Module,Van Aakens,Muffler and Resinator removed,Amsoiled front to back.
Member of the GLTDR.

 

[WyoJim]

I'll try Dave.

I change the filter, then I loosen one of the test plugs on the top of the filter housing and turn the key to on. The lift pump runs and quits. Then I bump the starter. The pump runs and fuel begins to squirt out the loosened plug. I tighten the plug and start the engine. Works for me.

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98. 5 24 valve auto, QC, LB, EZ, DTT vb 9 1/2ft 3500# slide in S&S Camper

[This message has been edited by WyoJim (edited 04-21-2001). ]

 

[SteveE]

When I changed my fuel filter I used an old A/C line that I had from a set of gauges that I used to do A/C work when I worked as a mechanic to bleed air from system.
The line is available from any tool man, just has to be the old style R-12. One end of the hose has a stem inside to depress the schrader valve and the other end goes into a plastic container to catch the diesel fuel.
I changed out the filter, lubed the gasket and put everything together, then hook up the schrader end to the test port at the injection pump, be sure that it is screwed on all of the way and the scrader valve should be open, bump the engine over to start the lift pump working and have the other end in a clear plastic container to catch the diesel fuel.
When fuel only... no air came out of the line, I unscrew the connection at the test port on injection pump, while pump is running, ensuring that no air is in system.
When I start for the first time after fuel filter change, 1/2 throttle untill it runs smooth, usually less than 30 seconds.
Hope this helps,
Steve
01. 5 ETH/DEE QC LB

[This message has been edited by Stevee (edited 04-22-2001). ]

 

[pwr2tow]

Also check out 2nd generation forum there is a thread going about fuel filter change and additives or something like that, they say the first thing to go is the mind (my wife is happy its the mind).
Ron

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1999, 3500, 6x6, slt, auto, 3. 55, Qd cab, ISB cummins, Isspro transmission temp, EGT, Boost gauges on A-piler, fuel prssure gauge, DD stage 1, modified banjo bolts, K&N 0880 with prefilter, triple trailing 2001 26RKSS Tahoe 5th wheel, 1999 120hp 1800 bayliner. 20,000 lbs GCW. Waiting for DD TTPM to be delivered 4-24-01.

 

[Big Bry]

Well my opinion on that is, go with what works. You change the filter and fire it up and go, then don't change your process. Works for you!

Myself, I drain the canister, pull out the filter, put the new filter in, fill the canister with fresh fuel, close it up, fire it up and drive away. Works for me.

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Bryan De Boer
I L-O-V-E MY D-O-D-G-E
White 2000 Ram 2500 Quad s/b With a Banks Power Pack

 

[EMDDIESEL]

You guys draining the cannister by using the "moisture drain valve" before opening the lid?

 

[LSMITH]

EMD, yes use the drain. You need to have the top loosened just a little bit so as soon as you open the drain you can break the seal on the canister and it won't siphon fuel from the tank.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member

 

[Fred Swanson]

Dave65, alot has to do with Dodge changing the filter design every few years. On the 2000 and up models, filter changes are much easier, as you have noted. The earlier model designs make it harder, and priming is necessary.
I basically do the same as you, unscrew the canister, pop off the old one, remove the o-ring. Lubicate the new o-ring, put it on, and pop on the filter, and put it back in, screw it down tight. Fires right up.


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Fred Swanson
Co-Owner
Canyon State Components, LLC
www.canyonstatecomponents.com


'00 QC,SB,4x4,Auto,3. 54 w/LSD,Trailer Package,Tow Package,DTT's
TC(91%)&VB(80psi),DD2's,EZ,HOT PE,K&N RE-0880,Cummins RED Valve Cover

 

[LSMITH]

I use the same procedure WyoJim uses and I have never had a problem. Loosening the test port is the secret, it gives the air somewhere to go so the fuel can get in.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member