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Fuel filter

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Are lift pumps rebuildable?

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The local Dodge dealer in Alexandria is REAL proud of his fuel filters, checked the price 6 months ago------:eek: $47. 00 :eek:









Get mine from a Cummins shop 20 miles outside of D. C. @ ~$14. 00
 
Geno's Garage is pretty cheap, too. I'm going to try Cummins next time I need a filter. It's good to live fairly close to a Cummins shop.
 
Make sure you change the O ring with the filter and don't screw it up $26 for just an O ring from Cummins. $11 for the filter and O ring from Cummins... Go Figure... .
 
Originally posted by HEMI 71 GTX

Make sure you change the O ring with the filter and don't screw it up $26 for just an O ring from Cummins. $11 for the filter and O ring from Cummins... Go Figure... .



:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: Figures.
 
Some of these guys will tell you to bump the key and it will fire right up... ... ... ..... Right..... I bumped my key until the battery was almost dead. Save yourself the trouble and refill it will fuel before trying to start.
 
That's what did, too! I drained my canister into a clean coffee can before I pulled the filter, then poured most of that fuel back into the canister before putting the new one in. Then I bumped it until the fuel pressures stabilized (they started out low because of all the air). Once they were up to normal when the pump was running, I fired it up--no problems.



I ended up bumping it about 3 times, I think.
 
Please define "bumping"

John Miller... .



people talk about "bumping" the starter. Exactly, what does this mean, i. e. :



Just turning the key to the "on" position for a second and then turning off? When I do this, I can hear a very short noise that I believe is the lift pump activating.



Or



Some say that when you "bump" the starter, you can hear the lift pump running for approx. 25 seconds. Is that process a very quick "bump" in the start mode, but not enough to actually fire the engine??



My first filter change was "by the book", including putting fuel in the filter canister. But when I did the key to the on position three times and then fired the truck, it ran for about 10 seconds and died. I think that happened because the fuel in the canister ran dry and there was not enough, or any, there to keep it running. Then, I had a he%% of a time getting it started.



Thanks...
 
when you turn the key to the "on" position, the lift pump will cycle only a few seconds. For a fuel filter change, you want it to run longer, like 25 seconds (or even longer). You can make it do this by turning the key to the "on" position, letting the pump cycle, then turning the key to the "start" position just long enough to energize the starter, but not long enough for the engine to turn over and start. Let the key return to the "on" position as if you had actually started the vehicle. The lift pump will run for around 25 seconds. Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary.





If the canister isn't full, the truck will die when you try to start it. Once fuel (or air) is in the canister, there's only one way out--through the VP (okay, okay, you CAN open the drain... . ). That means if you have air in the canister when you fire it up, eventually the air is going to go through the VP. Some of it will go harmlessly back through the return line; some of it will get stuck in your injector lines. That's when you have a fun time bleeding fuel lines.



By cycling the pump several times, you let the lift pump purge the air from the canister, letting it flow through the VP and back into the tank via the return line, not into your injectors.



--J
 
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