Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel filter

[KBurgoyne]

what is the best way to get at the stock fuel filter to change it?

 

[CTaylor]

Im unsure what truck you have but on my 97 12 valve I drain the housing 1st then loosen the nut on top of the canister untill the lower housing drops free. I find it easiest "relativley speaking of course" to actually rest the lower housing on the frame rail then get under the truck and pull it out that way. I install it the same way, set up on the frame rail then lift it up to the filter head from under the hood.

 

[KBurgoyne]

its a 95. ive been thinking about taking the starter off to get better access from below

 

[Bill Stockard]

what is the best way to get at the stock fuel filter to change it?

Send a Private Message to TDR member Joe G. and be sure to tell him your truck is a '95.



Bill

 

[KRStone]

Lay an old camping sleeping pad (foam) on the engine, lay down on the engine, your knees near the driver's headlight and your chest right on top of the valve covers. Use your right arm, guide it down by the intake plenum then back to the fuel filter.

 

[JustDave]

I use a strap wrench from the top. I remove the electrical fitting on the drain first, put the strap on, then loosen the filter, remove the strap and finish removing the filter by hand. Getting the old o-ring off can be tricky because it's hard to see when working from above. I move the wiring away with my hand when it's time to remove or re-install. It looks more difficult than it is.



I always fill the filter with diesel prior to installation to minimize cranking. Put everything back together in reverse order.



Dave

 

[WilsonF]

If you take the brake master cyl off the booster, leaving the lines connected, and move it towards the fender it will give you a little more room to work.

Floyd

 

[LandShark]

Do it from the top. No need to remove anything. It's a tight fit, but drain it a bit with the water drain and then drop it down and move it forward and up through they maze of wires and vacuum lines. After the first time I changed mine, my arms looked like someone had taken a razor to them because of the sharp edges on the ABS/brake components. Ten minutes with a file took care of that. It's way easier the second time you do it.
Fill the new filter close to the top and a '95 will start without any other priming and maybe about 20 seconds of cranking.

 

[Big E]

A little trick that works for me instead of a filter wrench.

Using a long screwdriver and mallet, make a small dent in the upper outer rim of the filter and then angle the screwdriver in the loosen direction and tap away until it loosens enough to get off by hand. Works every time for me. (your results may vary).

 

[KRStone]

A little trick that works for me instead of a filter wrench.



Using a long screwdriver and mallet, make a small dent in the upper outer rim of the filter and then angle the screwdriver in the loosen direction and tap away until it loosens enough to get off by hand. Works every time for me. (your results may vary).

Man, I don't think I could get 2 hands, a screwdriver, and a hammer ANYWHERE near that filter... . would like to see you do that!



KRS

 

[Big E]

OK, here is a couple of pics. I would probably use a slightly longer screwdriver but it's what I grabbed. The screwdriver is on the upper rim of the filter.

This is just to loosen it. For me the hardest part was getting some kind of wrench in there to loosen it. I still have to fish my arm in there and work the filter out.

Once again, my legal disclaimer, "Your results may vary".

 

[Missouri Mule]

Drain the fuel into a 2 litre water bottle( I use a Dassini bottle) then pour it back into fuel tank. unplug "water in fuel" connector then use a filter wrench with swivel handle, loosen it up until you can turn by hand. Move it toward and up front of engine until you find a hole big enough it will fit through. Find the O-ring usually it is at the top of the stud. Take off the water in fuel sensor, put it on the new filter (make sure you use the new o-ring for it. Put the new ring for the filter on the stud and twist to the top. Put filter back on. Hand tighten it. With the filter wrench give it three small turns (if you tighten it to much it is a pain to get off if you don't tighten it enough it will vibrate loose. I found the three small turns will keep it tight. My Mechnaics's mechanics love to tighten it too much, so much I bent an old filter wrench and had to go out and buy one with a swivel handle so I could get both hands on it and pull from under neath the master cylinder). Unloosen the supply line banjo bolt push primer button until you see no bubbles, tighten it back up. Prime until you hear the over-flow valve squeaking. Crank with your foot on the go peddle. It should start.

 

[AWallace]

I use a NAPA strap wrench 2-1/2" extensions about 8" long and ratchet all from the top then wigle the filter up through the wires and lines. Getting the o-ring or rubber washer off the housing is worse than getting filter off. Just watch the wires on the bottom of the filter don't twist them off.