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Fuel Filter

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It is time to change the fuel filter on my '01 HO. Do I just take off the large black cap thats on the canister then out with the old and in with the new element? Is it a good idea to fill the canister as full as possible with clean fuel before putting it back together?
 
First thing that I would do is to go to the local hardware store and purchase a longer length of drain hose, remove 'shorty' and replace with a hose that will will allow for easy fuel filter canister draining. Place the end of the drain tube into a container, lift the drain lever and unscrew the housing cap. Remove the filter from the cap and the old O ring. Clean the inside of the filter housing with a lint free cloth, place the new O ring on the cap, wipe down the cap's threads and O ring with some diesel motor oil and then snap the new filter in place on the cap. Carefully thread the cap onto the filter housing, be sure not to cross thread ( you must apply a bit of down pressure while turning the cap) and snug it down until tight. Close the drain valve and bump the starter several times to allow the canister to refill. Crank her over, should start within several seconds, if not, bump the starter again and then try cranking after you hear the lift pump stop. You might hear the mighty Cummins running rough for a few seconds after it lights up, don't worry, she'll smooth right out real quick.



While some do add fuel to the canister before replacing the filter, I prefer to let the lift pump fill the canister, thus having only filtered fuel reaching the VP44.



Scott W.
 
Pakrat,

Scott's suggestion to lengthen the drain hose is awesome and I will be doing that before the next change. The instructions the come with the filter are very straight forward and simple. I think there is a full explanation on dave fritz's site,Dodgeram.org



It is very easy



Ted
 
Bigsaint is right on, I do like to refill the canister tho, then when it cranks it never misses a beat. The longer drain hose is nice so it doesnt drain all over the front diff. and splater all over the driveway. :D
 
I believe it's a 1 1/8 socket (just changed my filter for the first time the other day) I also pre-filled my filter housing up to the black ring inside. Then I bumped the starter to allow the pump to run for 30 seconds and she started right up. No rough idle or anything. I was worried that I might get air into the lines and have to bleed them, etc... . But it worked out great. I replaced the drain line with a longer one as well - that was a great idea.
 
I use a 1 1/8 socket for mine. I also just fill the canister 3/4 they way back up with PS diesel treatment. Starts just fine every time.
 
When the mechanic replaced my fuel filter, he filled the fuel filter with automatic transmission oil. Is this a good thing??? Or can this damage the fuel injector pump?
 
When lengthening the drain hose make SURE that you have no kinks in the hose anywhere! If you have a kink in that hose you will pressurize the crankcase and blow out a seal. Geno's stopped selling their catch bottle for the drain hose because of that issue. I had it happen to me on my first road race bike - no drains can be open on a race bike, they all have to run to a catch tank. When I did so I put a kink in my crankcase breather tube and when the case pressurize it pushed out the seal on the mainshaft. I didn't get to race on my first weekend out because of that - couldn't find the leak and they red flagged me because I was smoking in the corners - good eyes on those corner workers, they could have saved my life!
 
Originally posted by Snowbird

When the mechanic replaced my fuel filter, he filled the fuel filter with automatic transmission oil. Is this a good thing??? Or can this damage the fuel injector pump?



I dont think I would do this again. This is the "old days" way. stick to fresh fuel or treatment.
 
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