Fuel gauge sending unit interchangability

[Dennis Garrett]

After 125k, the sending unit unit in my 97 finally shot craps completely. No better that they are, I'm not sure I want to spend $200 on a new one. I might hit the salvage yards, but was wondering if the gas trucks 94 & up use the same one? If so, I might go that route, & see if I can get lucky.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

If just the fuel level sending unit went bad, you remove the complete unit from the tank, remove two screws, and install a new sending unit onto your cartridge. The sender sells for around $45 from Dodge, PN 05013467AA. Several things can go out on this part: the pivot bearing can wear, the contacts can glaze or varnish from fuel deposits, or the float can absorb fuel and get too heavy to work properly. You can drop the tank (your back will appreciate it if you almost run out of fuel, and then siphon out the rest by using a fuel hose, cut a whistle slot near the end, use a compressed air hose to blow into it and induce fuel to flow out of the tank into a holding vessel). Or, lift the bed for access. These problems and procedures have been hashed several times in the TDR magazine(Issue 16, pp. 20-21; Issue 23, p. 20; Issue 25, pp. 24, 82, 86; Issue 26, p. 12), and will be discussed yet again in Tech Topics in the next issue. Also check old threads on this forum.

 

[MikeR]

$200 bucks?? Last weekend I picked up the same 05013467AA sending unit that Joe mentioned,no need to hunt junk yards. List price for the unit in Portland OR was $53 bucks.

-Mike

 

[Dennis Garrett]

That doesn't sound as bad as I thought. I thought you had to replace the whole in the tank unit in one piece, float & all.

 

[illflem]

The sending unit does include the float and all. The $200 unit they are trying to sell you is the whole fuel tank module.

 

[csutton7]

you don't have remove the tank completely, but it may be easier in the long run--

1) undo the two fuel line connections, electrical connection and the fill tube and overflow first or shortly after you've dropped it a little---
2)you can remove the driveshaft if you want this will definitely make it easier, but I didn't--- loosen the front tank strap nut all the way to the end of the bolt but leave nut on
3) if you have a floor jack and a 12" pc of 6x6 put it under the rear of the tank-not on the strap--and jack it up until you have a little pressure--now loosen the rear tank strap nut all the way to the end, but leave it on---now lower the jack and when it won't lower anymore jack it up a little and remove the strap nut--lower the jack all the way and remove it--tank will stay hanging , but you'll have to push it down a little more-it will go--if you want you can put the jack back under it for support--
4) look and take note how the tank module is positioned--draw a pic or take a pic you'll be glad you did(don't be stupid like me, that module will only work if it's reinstalled exactly or very,very close to exactly--It took two tank drops before I got it right)
5) I used a 12"-14" pc of closet rod & a rubber hammer and removed the big white nut by hammering it off--if you've got room you might be able to use some gigantic channel locks--set the white nut aside
6) very carefully pull the sending unit out-you'll have to tug a little--DON'T let the rubber grommet fall into the tank--you'll also have twist the unit around and lay it flat(close to it) to get the float to get out of the hole
7) replace what you must and reinstall in the reverse--IF YOU TAKE THE MODULE APART, MAKE A DRAWING OR TAKE A PIC OF HOW THINGS ARE ALIGNED--I learned the hard way, so take my word for it

oh yea if you plan to BOMB the fuel lines now is a great time to do it

good luck----chris

[This message has been edited by csutton7 (edited 04-15-2001). ]