Fuel gauge sending unit

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Hi all you Rammers.
I am newbe. This is my first post. Been reading a lot. Got a lot to learn. So far I have got a good start.
Fuel sender dose not work. Called Dodge dealer and they want $285. 00 for one. I believe that read where some of you have been buying them for $40. something dallors.
Would like to know part number and where you can get one at that price.
Thanks for any help you all can give me.
97 extended cab 2500 stock as of now.
Sam B.

 

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Samb. . First off WELCOME to TDR...
Here is a place you will want to bookmark. . I don't think its the one your looking for on this issue but a great source/price for a large # of parts. . as always buyer beware. .
www.mopar4less

Gary

 

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Samb - I think they priced out the entire assembly, including the filter, pump etc. All you need is the float gauge sending unit. I just bought one for about 45. 00. Two screws and two wires its installed. The trouble is getting into the tank. Either drop the tank or raise the bed.

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94 2500, AT, 4x2, 95,000 miles

 

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samb seems they gave you installation price. For $240 consider dropping tank yourself. Let it run low on fuel.

 

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samb, I let the dealer replace mine, I just checked my records and it was $208 parts, labor, and taxes.

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Gene Stanton
'97' 3500 Laramie SLT, Ext Cab, LB, 5 SPEED, 4. 10 Limited Slip, 4X4. No muffler. (it's a start)

 

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samb-I just replaced the one in my work truck last nite. It is a pain in the a$$ to do. The tank must be dropped so make sure you support it or run it low on fuel. Part number is 4797738 my cost was 45. 98 with tax. If you need more details on the swap email me and I'll help as best I can.

 

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Also part # 4797738. A year ago list was $41. 00 less $10. 25 disc. plus Tax = $32. 60 my cost. Tell them you want a break on the cost of the parts.

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Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors,16cm2 turbo housing, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D. , CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
Eastern PA.

 

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A Cummins owner from another list posted this as a fix for the problematic senders. I haven't tried it as mine is still working.
http://www.chesco.com/~rosenberry/diesel/Dodgesender.htm

I have the original post (by H. L. Conway,Jr) that does not require machining, so if you don't have access to a machine shop, email me and I can send it to you.

Bob

 

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Thanks a heap for the fast respond. I will give Dodge a call and see if they have one in stock. If I can get one I will put it in Monday. Do repair on old one ane keep for a spare. I saw the picture of how to repair one. It look pretty simple.
This is one GREAR SITE. Thanks again for the help. Will let you know how it comes out. Will have to drop tank, have a 5th wheel hitch installed.

Sam B.

 

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Thanks for all the help. I have unit in hand and plan on installing it Monday if it is not raining. All these storms down here in the gulf and Alantic causeing a lot of rain. I am planing on trying to repair the old one and keep it for a spare.
Thanks THIS IS A GREAT SITE

Sam B.

 

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I must say, I think Im on fuel sender number 7, but Im starting to loose count. Ive had one last as little as 1 week! The dealer couldn't replace it for about 10 days so I was told to "just turn the stereo up a little louder" to drown out the low fuel ding ding. Gotta love it!

 

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I've been into my sender 3 times now, twice at work where we have a vehicle lift and transmission jack and once at home in my garage where I used the "tip the bed method".

The "tip the bed method" IMHO is by far the best way to go #ad


Some pointers to tip your bed, before starting mark the location of your bed on its mounts, this insures you can get it lined up to it's original position. Disconnect the wiring loom from the top of the sender (mine had a little red safety that has to be slid to one side before the connector will slide off the sender). Disconnect the fuel lines from the sender. Disconnect the filler and vent hose at the bed (be careful the plastic filler neck is rather fragile). Disconnect the ground wire that goes from the frame to the bed. The bed is secured with 6 bolts, remove the front 4 bolts, 2 on each side. Lower your spare tire and get it out of the way. Loosen but do not remove the 2 bolts at the rear of the bed (leave them hanging by about 5 threads). Proceed to jack the bed at the front center using the appropriate-sized lumber. CAUTION! Be sure the bed is supported in a safe manor before placing your body in harms way. After jacking mine up I cut a 4X4 post and used it as a safety in case the jack slipped. Raise the bed up enough to gain access to the sender module, it will go quite a long ways without hitting the bumper or anything else. Remove the big ring that is threaded to the top of the tank (holds down the sender module). Get a drain pan ready, the sender module holds a surprising amount of fuel, you will need to turn the module on its side as you remove it from the tank. R&R the sender on the sender module and reverse the procedure. Took me about 2. 5 hours and 2 beers on a Saturday afternoon.

 

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I read quite a bit about the sender and printed off the instructions for fixing it. Then I attempted to fix my own and it didn't cost anything for parts!- here's what I learned;
(My truck is a '97 3500) If you have a hoist, you'll have better luck but be aware that you can't get the tank out with the truck on ground unless you jack up the rear end. I couldn't tip up my box very easily because of extra ground effects and so forth. Siphon the tank as dry as you can. Take the nuts loose on both fuel tank straps. Theres a red tab on the electrical conector that slides out to the side a little and then there's a little catch on the tank side of the connector which unplugs the electrical connections. Remove the rubber fill and vent hoses, remove the small hose on the top of the sending unit. There's now only two fuel lines to remove- sound easy doesn't it? They're a pain in the ***! Do yourself a favor and go to NAPA, they have an OTC 'tool' that makes it way easier to press the two tabs at the same time so the lines can be pulled. Take the nuts off of both fuel tank straps,jack up the rear end so you have enough room to slide the tank out the rear because you can't undo the front strap all the way. Mark the original position of the plastic screw-on fitting that holds the sender in place. Now tap the plastic piece counter clockwise to unscrew it. Pull out the sending unit carefully and keep the rubber seal in place on the top of the tank. You'll now have to take out the two screws in the brass colored metal piece that holds the float/ points in place. HERE'S WHERE MY FIX IS DIFFERENT- Most of the fixes out there replace the bushing to take up the slop in the pivot but I just turned the aforementioned metal piece and turned it end for end and shimmed it up so that now the curved part now holds the pivot point down fairly tight so it can't pop out anymore, thus the points now hold tight and the gauge works! You should use longer screws since you now have shims under the brass colored metal clip. Mine now works great and didn't cost any extra for parts!