Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Heater Leak on Filter Housing - (help)

[highland]

A small leak has shown up on top of the fuel filter housing cap. Seems to be pushing past the black rubber stopper with the 2 electrical heater leads coming through. Anyone worked this problem? Is there an o-ring seal here that can be replaced? Dealer quotes $1200 for new fuel filter housing!!!!!! UN-Believable!#@$%!https://www.turbodieselregister.com/images/smilies/cussing.gif



Thanks, KW

 

[Corriher]

Mine did the same thing back in December. A local shop here in Salisbury NC that sells

FASS pumps had several used filter housing for the ISB that he had taken off in place of using the bigger high output FASS pumps. He put a new FASS DDRP on mine and a used housing all for around $500. 00. I went this way because my truck has around 200. 000 miles and all stock and I also did not need all the extra gpm and pressure on a stock set up. I will say the truck does seem to idle and run better with just the lift pump installed !!!

 

[highland]

OK Thanks! I do run a FASS lift pump with larger fuel lines, but still use the stock filter. Seems to flow fine with 450 hp. I will look to find a used canister or maybe alter this one where the heater lines pass through. Maybe I could drill out the "plug" and re work it with some type of epoxy.

 

[SWC]

Within the last year I had much the same issue you refer to. I tried tightening the screws holding the heater-water in fuel sensor onto the filter canister. It helped but did not stop the leak. I then removed the wiring from the heater block took out the screws and replaced the o-rings. That stopped the leak.

I can't remember if those screws were torx or allen, but try that.

Stan

 

[highland]

Stan - thanks - I was hoping there were some o-rings in their that could be replaced!

 

[Stref]

The o-ring is a green #10 A/C (air condition) o-ring. I took my canister head to a local Cummins shop and he stretched the o-ring over the electrical connector, so as not to remove the wires. He charged me $0. 46 for the o-ring. Beats $1200 for a new filter assembly.

 

[GTJacobs]

Fuel Heater o-ring leak.

I just finished the repair on my 99 fuel heater o-ring leak. I took yall's advice and went to NAPA and got a #10 A/C green o-ring. Put it all back together and NO LEAK !!!

Thanks for all the great information.



Now on to fixing the A/T torque converter in and out lock up problem.

 

[SAronson]

I just finished the repair on my 99 fuel heater o-ring leak. I took yall's advice and went to NAPA and got a #10 A/C green o-ring. Put it all back together and NO LEAK !!!

Thanks for all the great information.



Now on to fixing the A/T torque converter in and out lock up problem.

Got a part # for that Green O-ring? I just returned from Napa, and they had a few #10 A/C o-rings listed... . GM, Ford, etc... all slightly different sizes.

 

[SAronson]

I finally sourced an #10 HNBR O-ring, but in my search I bought a few different ones along the way. Instead of using the #10, I found that a 15mmx1. 8mm was closer to the original size. So, that's the one I used. It's slightly larger than the #10. The equivalent metric size to the #10 is 13. 7mmx1. 9mm... FYI. I'm stating these sizes and equivalents so that others can easily find an O-Ring that will work right on the shelf... they come in a multi pack at most Autozones, Kragen/ Oreilly's, etc. . I had to order a pack og 10pcs at Napa, and did'nt even use them... $10+. The multi pack was @ $5, and has spares!

 

[Stref]

Fuel Filter Leak

Thanks for the info. When I was initially told to use the #10 A/C o-ring the color "green" was enphasized because it indicated that it could be used with diesel fuel. Hope you made sure they were for diesel fuel applications also.

 

[SAronson]

Yessir! GREEN HNBR A/C rubber O-ring... . no leaks yet. Leaving for Baja in a day... with spares just in case.

 

[GregBarnes]

I finally sourced an #10 HNBR O-ring, but in my search I bought a few different ones along the way. Instead of using the #10, I found that a 15mmx1. 8mm was closer to the original size. So, that's the one I used. It's slightly larger than the #10. The equivalent metric size to the #10 is 13. 7mmx1. 9mm... FYI. I'm stating these sizes and equivalents so that others can easily find an O-Ring that will work right on the shelf... they come in a multi pack at most Autozones, Kragen/ Oreilly's, etc. . I had to order a pack og 10pcs at Napa, and did'nt even use them... $10+. The multi pack was @ $5, and has spares!

Just had the same thing happen to mine. Thanks to all of you for the information. I'll be doing the o-ring thing!

 

[SHobbs]

Mine did the same thing except everything on the canister was leaking. I just took it out and put a Raptor 150 and a filter set up on the frame rail and was done with it.

 

[MBohm]

Really appreciate the previous postings on this topic, same leak just occurred with my 99. Local NAPA was no help, they looked at me like I had three heads when I asked for an HNBR o-ring in a 15mmx1. 8mm size. I regrouped and asked for a #10, and he said they had approx 15 different #10 o-rings. In frustration I went to Autozone and right there on a shelf was an A/C PRO HNBR Rubber O-Ring 24 piece assortment. PN is ORNG-1.

 

[MBohm]

I completed the job and all is working well. I wanted to add that in the end I elected to use the 13. 7mmx1. 9mm o-ring since it is slightly thicker than the 15mmx1. 8mm o-ring and appeared to fit in the channel more like the original o-ring did.

I also found that a small awl was helpful in poking the electrical blade pins out of the connector so that I could easily remove the old o-ring and was able to install the new o-ring without needing to stretch things at all. The procedure was quite simple, just remove the orange clip at the rear of the connector, then poke the awl into the little cutout next to the base of the blade pin (coming from the connector side) and push down. The retaining pin holding the contact in place will release and the blade pin will push right out the back side of the connector.

Hope this helps anyone else having to perform this repair.