Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel hose install help

[KBurgoyne]

got the fuel hose and return hose kit from larry b's

the return kit has some directions, but they are pretty vague.

where is the overflow valve that needs to be removed.

then cut and flare the steel pipe going to the fuel tank.

what would i use to flare it with.

the other lines came with no instruction so any general help is appreciated.

thanks for any help. i suppose the install should be prety obvios, but i am somewhat oblivious.

i really dont want to screw this up:{

 

[RMcKinney]

KBurgoyne,

You don't say what you have so on my 1996 2500 the Overflow valve is on the passenger side near the front of the high pressure pump. Look behind the top radiator hose. It has one steel line fastened to the valve. The valve looks like a tube fitting screwed into the high pressure pump.

RMcKinney

 

[hsmith]

If you are just replacing the rubber fuel hoses, no need to be concerned with the ofv at all. You don't say year model, but on mine it helps to unbolt the m/c and lay it out of the way. Also remove the fuel filter. Still a pain to get to.

 

[BigPapa]

Lot's of advice and good reading here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...transmission-1994-1998/171159-any-tricks.html



Scott

 

[KBurgoyne]

the truck is a 95. that other post is great, it just has a lot of different ways to do the same job. stupid question alert. is there a better way to go.

how can i get to joe g's fuel system write up.

thanks for all the help.

 

[BigPapa]

Here ya go:



Joe G's fuel system writeup - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum



Scott

 

[KBurgoyne]

thanks buddy that will help a bunch. for the return line i'm leaning heavily toward the re-route over the engine to avoid cutting. i must also admit that any difficuly i have with the install is in no way the fault of the kit from larry b's. its clearly top quality, and the return line comes pre-wrapped with heavy-duty fabric, the kit even encludes a band-aid.

 

[KBurgoyne]

starting to get it, but looking for more definate answers. if i were to install the return line over the engine, where would it begin and end. thanks

 

[AWallace]

If you are just replacing the hose look up under the intake drivers side there is a tube 5/16 coming out of the injector pump. the return hose is on it. There is a small clamp holding the hose on. A 1/4 inch rachet and 5/16 socket worked well for me. Remove this end and trace the hose to the tube up under the manifold at the rear of the engine and remove that end. Cut your new hose the same length or a little longer to make sure you have enough to reach. I have changed mind twice the last time I used the hose from Larry b's. The end at the rear of the engine I did from the bottom and did not remove anything. It was still a pita.

The trident hose fits very tight I took a pair of needle nose pliers and oil and streched the end of the hose a little to get it started.

The supply hose can be done from the bottom of the truck. On the side of clutch housing is a bracket holding the metal lines unsnap the line from the bracket carefully and the lines will drop down so you can get the hose off and on again a little easier. On some of these trucks the supply line is a 3/8 and some are 5/16 both of mind are 5/16 return and supply. I ended up having to use 5/16 fuel injection hose until I could get more for the supply. Been running that since o8 but do have the 5/16 for the next time.



Good luck

 

[KBurgoyne]

the kit comes with a new barbed banjo fitting. where does that go. sorry if this has already been answered. i might have missed it.

 

[BigPapa]

Haven't seen the kit but I'd say it would go on the overflow valve.



Scott

 

[KBurgoyne]

the new hose is designed to eliminate most of the return system. goes strait from the overflow valve to the frame and taps into the steel line that runs along the frame. part of the lines can be removed after from the disconect by the fuel filter. not sure exactly where that i, but it looks like my leak is somewhere in the return system maze above the transmission so eliminating it sounds fine.

so return line goes from back of pump to frame rail.

new banjo installed torque to 24lbs.

supply line replaces braided steel lines coming from the tank.

might as well get rid of heater at same time. remove bottom with 17mm socket, remove heater with 8mm allen bit and reattach.

bleed lines by refilling fuel filter with pump then loosen lines at injector. finger tighten, crank for 20-30 seconds, let it rest, crank until fuel leaks out tighten to 17lbs start up, drive away.

am i missing anything.

 

[DWeaver]

#ad




If I am guessing correctly this is the kit you have bought?



The banjo barb is to replace the steel line that runs between the head and injection pump with the hose in the kit. The overflow valve is part of that.



While the P-pump (injection pump, P-7100) is on the engine I figure that would be a pain. To remove the P-pump requires special tools and also is a pain. I have no easy tricks for you on that line.



The kit routes the hose in the same place as the steel line it replaces. Also the rubber hose the steel line connects to, and the steel braided line the hose connects to. All the way back to the drivers side frame rail, where the steel line is that comes from the fuel tank.



Remove the starter! Also, the front drive shaft. Makes things almost roomy up under the fuel filter, so getting to the fuel strainer and heater are almost easy and the rubber hose off the steel return line behind the P-pump is almost visible if you hold your tongue and head just right.



In the end how you route the hose is all up to you.