Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel hose replacement - Need Help

[400Magnum]

Hi All,



I am in the middle of trying to remove the two fuel lines that come up from the frame to the firewall and then to the engine so that I can replace them with the HD hoses that Larry B sells.



What is the best way to get the old hoses off of the metal fuel lines? I've tried everything I can think of with no luck. I cut the lines where I could reach them, thinking I could just pull them off of the metal lines. Yea, that didn't happen. I've tried to twist them, no luck. I tried to cut them but I can't reach them with my pocket knife from the right direction to cut them off. I tried prying them off with a screwdriver, but again, I can't seem to get at them from the right angle to get a good shot at them. My latest idea was to try to get in there with my Dremel and a cut off wheel and try to slice thru the line and the metal clamp and hopefully not go into the metal lines, but it got too cold and dark before I had a chance to try it.



I thought I'd check here first to see what others have done, and hopefully someone can give me a clue as to what I should do.



On a related note, any ideas on what I can do to prevent the rubber hoses from sticking so badly so the next time I have to do this (in 20 years) the lines won't be so hard to remove? Can I put a little grease or something on the ends of the metal lines? I'd think that'd also help get the new hoses onto the metal lines wouldn't it?



As always, any help will be deeply appreciated.

 

[DBentley]

I did mine on the 96 last year and it was a nitemare to get those hoses off the metal lines at the firewall and over the transmission. I ended up not using my larry bs hose kit and got 4 feet of each size hose at a local truck repair shop and i cut the 2 metal lines to the tank under the drivers side floor and abandoned the dodge metal to flex to rubber mess that they come with. Just tie wrap them away from any thing they may rub on and you can sleve them with some in radiator hose for protection. The ends at the motor were not to bad to get at. Good luck

 

[400Magnum]

I agree, it is definitely a nightmare to get in there. I unbolted the brake booster so I could move it a little out of the way, and it helped a little. Why on earth do these companys make stuff so hard to replace? I thought that was the thing to do these days, don't make it repairable, make it quick and easy to replace. Well this sure isn't quick and easy to replace.



There is one truck repair shop nearby, I'll give them a call and see if I can get some longer lengths of hose and do what you did, that sounds like the better way to do this. Then when they have to be replaced again, it'll be a whole lot easier job.



If they don't have the hose, I'm hoping I can get in there with my Dremel tool and cut-off wheels and just slit the ends of the hoses and pull them off of the metal lines without too much trouble.

 

[wcjp]

I think I used a small knife to cut the fuel lines. The trick was not cutting too deep. I did mine before LarryB came out with the kit. I used Diesel Marine grade fuel line. It wasn't easy replacing the lines. For the lines at the transmission I removed the Starter. I should've also removed the front driveline. Removing the drive line would've made things alot easier. Since the starter was out I also did the starter contacts by LarryB. I've heard loosening the brake booster can help with the topside fuel connections. My vehicle didn't require this step. As it turned out it wasn't the fuel supply/return lines causing my problems. It was the fuel preheater to liftpump softline that was the root of my problems.



I did need the dremel to remove the fuel line crimps above the transmission.

 

[Joe G.]

The OEM clamps crimp on so you have to cut them off. I used diagonal cutting pliers to cut the crimps off. Your '96 has vacuum booster brakes so you can remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster. Then lean the master cylinder toward the fender. Remove the fuel filter and the starter.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

I feel for ya. What I did was spray the hose ends with WD-40 to try to penetrate the rubber. I cheated and used a surgical towel clamp to pierce into the rubber without clamping down on the hose against the metal line. rocking the clamp back and forth the line broke loose fairly easily. Maybe a snap ring plier with sharp pins pointing toward each other will do the same? Good luck!

 

[RACE427]

heat gun

I would give a heat gun a try. Heat up the fuel lines until the rubber gets nice and soft and then try to either pull off the fuel line or use a very long Snap On gasket scraper to cut through the rubber fuel lines. Because it is diesel fuel line, I would be tempted to try a little more heat from a propane torch, just enough to heat up and soften the rubber compund to where it will lose it's grip. Have you tried also using a curved pick tool to reach up and under the lip of the fuel line to pull it off? Just some of the different things I would try to remove that line if the truck was in my shop for repairs. Hope this helps!

 

[MLee]

Look for Joe Donnally's fix, Get another banjo bolt with a barb fitting, and run the hose over the top to where you are going to make the connection to the hard line. Isn't there squeese releases on the hose side to remove it fron the hard line? I used wire loom plastic cover on mine to protect against rubbing, and maybe the heat. Pep boys for under $6. 00.

Marv.

 

[Joe G.]

It's not that hard to do IF you make some room to work. As I mentioned above, remove the stuff in the way and the only hard part is to cut the old clamps off. If you try to do it with the fuel filter and starter in the way it's a big hairy PITA. On the trucks with vacuum boost brakes the master cylinder is easy to get out of the way too.

 

[dalton4]

I'm running my replacement lines from the frame area up and did away with the hard to get to section (lower firewall). Used plastic ties to secure position of hoses.

 

[DODGEDADDIE]

HOWDY,,,

I too did this fuel line job today,,,One more step I found that helped me,,was removing the SHOCK an THE TOWER,,that way you can look right in over the wheel well area,,,it was a big help,,(plus I had to change shocks any way)



Mike In Maine

 

[Breed]

I'm in the process of doing this job today, boy! what a pain in the butt! Thanks for all the tips, really helps.

Breed

Dayton Nevada

 

[LDPetersen]

I need to do this myself also. I wondered if it is possible or practical to run a conduit or plastic pipe from the fuel tank to the engine and just run marine fuel line all the way . Inside the pipe or conduit. If it goes bad in the future it would be easy to pull new lines. Just a question. I have not looked at mine yet, but have to crank a lot if it sits for a day or two. Not looking forward to all the hassle this sounds like. Larry.