Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Hose???

[Bowden]

I need to stop and get fuel hose for my '94 on the way home from work. Can anyone tell me what size I need for supply and return, are they the same size, and how much will I need to replace it all?

 

[btanner]

3/8ths hose same return and supply probably want to buy some new hose clamps. Not sure on length but never hurts to have extra. I know my truck (84 chevy crew cab) needed 24 ft of hose for both. My tank is right behind the cab so I would assume it it near where the stock dodge would be. I would get between 20-25 ft if I were you. Or just wait and measure it tonight and get it tomorrow. Always a bad thing to have 12 more inches till the tank and no more hose.



-ben

 

[KennyM]

I would say 10' to 12' , if your going back to the tank. If your only replacing btween engine and steel line you'll need about 2' each size. I'm in the process of going back to the tank, to be safe I got 15' of each. The two sizes are 5/16ths on return and 3/8th on supply.

 

[JGK]

There's no reason to replace the steel lines. Just get about 30" of each of the 2 sizes (plenty of extra for custom routing) and 4 hose clamps and replace the stock lines. The stock ones have these funny quick connects that can't be reused (at least mine did). No bother. Remove the half on the steel lines and use the hose clamps.



Make sure you get fuel lines compatible with diesel. Some aren't.



-Jay

 

[PKemp]

Save yourself a lot of trouble and get the marine grade rubber hoses from any commercial boat shop. They're pretty much diesel proof, regular fuel lines from the auto shops will crack, develop pin holes and suck air and need replacement in a short while and you'll be back here again. Also, use stainless hose clamps you can use a nut driver on instead of a screwdriver. The lines are truly a PITA to replace, so remove the fuel filter to get some extra room (probably needs changing anyway, eh?). If your feeling itchy that day, pull the starter and then drop the strainer on the bottom of the fuel heater and clean it out too, and while you have all that out you'll have more room to change the lines. While you've got the starter off replace the solenoids' contacts with a set of Larry B's heavy duty contacts (a miraculous invention indeed). If you do all of this (May take one of your buddys and a 12 pack on a cool weekend day to see it thru) but you'll have solved a basketfull of nasty, troublesome, @!?X$$! problems. Your truck will run better, start better, feel better... ..... and you don't need a basket of fancy-dan tools to do it..... happy motoring!!!!

 

[mechanic]

Save yourself a lot of trouble and get the marine grade rubber hoses from any commercial boat shop. They're pretty much diesel proof, regular fuel lines from the auto shops will crack, develop pin holes and suck air and need replacement in a short while and you'll be back here again. Also, use stainless hose clamps you can use a nut driver on instead of a screwdriver. The lines are truly a PITA to replace, so remove the fuel filter to get some extra room (probably needs changing anyway, eh?). If your feeling itchy that day, pull the starter and then drop the strainer on the bottom of the fuel heater and clean it out too, and while you have all that out you'll have more room to change the lines. While you've got the starter off replace the solenoids' contacts with a set of Larry B's heavy duty contacts (a miraculous invention indeed). If you do all of this (May take one of your buddys and a 12 pack on a cool weekend day to see it thru) but you'll have solved a basketfull of nasty, troublesome, @!?X$$! problems. Your truck will run better, start better, feel better... ..... and you don't need a basket of fancy-dan tools to do it..... happy motoring!!!!

I agree with PKemp about non F/I automotive fuel hose. I put it on my return line the first time I did it and it lasted about 20,000 miles then split. (I had put fuel injection hose on the supply line and it is still fine. ) However the best line (in my & GATES RUBBER Company's opion) you can get for diesel is GATES FUEL INJECTION hose. It has a VITON inter tube / liner and if you are know what VITON is then you understand why I believe it to be the best. I have not seen ANYTHING that will hurt that stuff. (I had a 454 Chevy Viton valve seal that took enough heat to colapse the valve spring and the seal was still fine). It may well be that the marine line is also VITON, but I know that the GATES is. I called their tech line and talked to a couple of different men about the problem on mine. They said that the NON-fuel injection hose has been improved, but that the best product for the application is the F/I hose. I believe the size is 5/16 ID on my 94 ctd. But before picking it up it would be a good idea to check for sure.

When doing the replacement, it is a big help to lift the left front wheel off the ground and block the frame. Then remove the left front wheel and the plastic fender liner. This gives you access to the fuel hoses, fuel heater, pump and filter. It makes a really difficult job into a fairly easy one. To make the fender liner reinstallation and next removal more simple, use plastic push pins with a plunger that spreads the inter end. This is for the 2WD. I do not know if it helps on the 4WD units.

I hope that this is not to convoluted, and that it will help.

 

[Bowden]

Thanks for all the info. I replaced the hose with regular Gates fuel hose until I could locate a source for the fuel injection hose. I finally found it yesterday and will pick it up today. I was lucky enough to gain access to the hoses simply by removing the two relays mounted to the firewall above the fuel filter but the supply line still had the factory crimped clamp on it. What a PITA! I checked the fuel screen yesterday, the first time it's been checked in 125,000 miles, and it was clean as a whistle! I plan to get enough of the F/I hose to replace the lines at the tank, too. Thanks again for the help!

 

[ABorchard]

I no long replace the two foot lines but rather go all the way back to the tank with about 12 feet.

Too many times after wrestling with the lines behind the engine the steel lines start leaking right where the hold down tab is welded on, then you have a new leak to fix.

US Coast Guard rated hose is the only way to go, twice as thick as the auto parts stuff.