Fuel in oil

[HHhuntitall]

You won't be able to make a gasket for that seal... it's a round seal around the input shaft... If it's leaking, it can indicate a bigger internal problem, which translates to a new CP3 pump. Again, pulling that pump apart is not advisable. I have done it for the sake of learning, and a number of specialty tools are required to reassemble it. If you have a good shop, you "might" could get a seal kit from Bosch to reseal it.... But the entire thing has to come apart to get to the seal, IIRC.

 

[sag2]

I understand what you mean. I don't like paying someone to do something I can do either. But in this case you might want to check with a Bosch rebuilder to see if you can get the seal and if it requires the pump to be pulled apart. I don't ever recall seeing a post about it. They do not leak very often, and the only one I can confirm were on Sprinters. In fact had a couple run away in Sprinters after it filled the crankcase with fuel.
Don't worry about the line in the back of the head, to test return from the injectors that routes to that line you use an adapter on the filter housing.

 

[sag2]

OK, this should help explain how the fuel gets from the back of the head. See the different photos I posted along with the diagram from a couple days ago. But keep in mind, any fuel returning off the head can't be your problem as it is impossible for it to get into the crankcase. The injector has an O-ring to keep the return in the rifle, so unless the return was plugged there is no pressure to force the fuel into the engine.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/191243-Injector-return-flow-test?highlight=Fuel+return

 

[AllianceDiesel]

I wonder if putting black light dye in the fuel would help find the pump seal. Run the engine for a couple of minutes, crack a fuel line while its running and black light the fuel that sprayed to see if it has made it through the pump. When you finally start seeing the dye at the lines, pull the gear cover for the cp3 nut and see if there is dye all over. I also wonder if the fuel going into the front cover, if the seal is leaking, would be under high pressure and mist like a cracked injector. So having the gear cover off, you might see the mist. Just was doing some thinking today while doing a water pump.

 

[lpennock]

You should never crack a HPCR line when the engine is running. The fuel has at least 5000psi and can go as high as 23000 which will punch right through the skin if your hand is in the wrong place not to mention spray in the eyes. Diesel in the blood system is not a good thing and can be fatal. Ok to do on the LP side but never the HP side.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

You should never crack a HPCR line when the engine is running. The fuel has at least 5000psi and can go as high as 23000 which will punch right through the skin if your hand is in the wrong place not to mention spray in the eyes. Diesel in the blood system is not a good thing and can be fatal. Ok to do on the LP side but never the HP side.

I have done it many times, it doesnt spray that bad. Yes its under high pressure but nothing to worry about at idle and just barely cracking an injector line

 

[Billy]

OK guys, thanks. So someone tell me if I'm right on my conclusion after everyone's input: #1 After I get the rest of the connectors back end, bump the starter and leave the key in the run position, do this a few times and it should start. #2 After I get it started, hold some white paper above each injector to check for a mist, dip the paper around each injector and check for runny oil, the diesel will travel fast down the paper. Unplug the FCA for 2 min. at the most, to get higher pressure. Code will go away in a few days. Replace as needed. #3 If no leaks at the injectors, replace the CP3 pump. Problem solved? Have I left anything out?

 

[AllianceDiesel]

Best thing to do is get the valve cover off, the just set it down so that when you start the engine, oil doesnt go everwhere. Then start the pickup, get into the engine bay so you can pull the connector off the fca. Then pull the valve cover. It will be obvious pretty quickly if you have a cracked injector because there will be a mist and it will smell like diesel. When you pull the valve cover pull it so the cover is blocking the injectors while you are jgetting back from the vehicle to set the cover down. Then from a distance use a flashlight to see if there is any mist. Now run a piece of cardboard over each injector moving your way back from 1-6. Everyone I have seen will shoot fuel straight up so oil shouldnt be going that high. If you cant decide which injector is leaking. Come from the side of the injector and put a piece of cardboard between the suspected injector. The side with the fuel will be the injector unless you have multiple cracked injectora.

 

[Billy]

FOUND IT!! When I unplugged the FCA' white smoke starting coming from the back injector (of course), when I held the paper over it, it got soaked. WOW, I can't believe I found it. Thank ya'll so much! sag2; you are "The Man". All you guys; Thank you very much!
Well, now that I have calmed down some I guess the real work starts. Do ya'll think I should replace all of them, I really don't have the money for all of them unless it would be the most stupidest thing I could do in just replacing the bad one, what do you think? Where is the best place to order one? Any recommendations? It sucks it's the one all the way in the back but that's not a complaint, the main thing is I found it. I'm sure my wife is tied of getting rides from her sister as I have her car. LOL Well I guess I'll wait on my manual and order one. If anyone has any special tricks, please let me know.
What a nice trick sag2, it wasn't doing anything until I unplugged that wire, Wow, if your ever in the Va. Beach area, lunch is on me!!
Talked to ya'll soon, I'll just keep this tag for the injector change, I will assume that's OK, thanks again. (I guess I can't say it enough!)

 

[AllianceDiesel]

Make sure its a bosch reman not reman bosch. Honestly if it was me I would only change the one. But that depends on if you have any rough idle or hanging throttle issues. There was a website put on here within the last week of an injector shop but cant think of what its called. They had great prices. The injector is pretty straight forward. 5/16" for injector wires and for injector hold downs. Obviously you know how to pull connector tubes. But there is a process on going back together. I dont follow it to the T and havnt had any problems. I use adjustable pliers to pull the injectors. I tried using the tool once but found it faster with the pliers. Have done hundreds of injectors that way. When you pull the injector, make sure copper washer comes out with the injector. Going bsck in, lube oringa with oil and make sure new copper washer wont fall off. Make sure fuel supply hole of the injector faces drivers side. Set injector in hole and I use a shop towl folded over a couple of time ontop ofvthe injector and push down on the injectoruntil you hear a click. Should take too much pressure andvyou will know once it drops. When you install the injector wire nuts, it doesnt take much to snap the studs off, ask me how I know. I have been torqueing the connector tube nuts to 41ft/lbs but it will all depend on what extensions you use. The intake sensor will also need to be removed to torque (#3?) connector tube nut. Im sure I will think of other things. Oh tighten all the injector hold down bolts that are a 5/16" head. If those are loose, they can wear a hole in the lines causing a fuel leak and fire.

 

[sag2]

Good deal. I would only replace the cracked injector. Lucky for you it is the hardest to get to. Pull the back couple of lines and anything else in the way. Number 6 is difficult to get a socket on with a torque wrench to torque the connector tube. Other than the access follow my post and you will be fine. After you get #6 back in, fire it up again with the valve cover off and check again for leaks. The nice thing about it is no mess with the cover off.

 

[Billy]

Where is the best place to buy the injector? Thanks.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

I use a short 1/2" drive socket with a reducer diwn to 3/8" and it works perfect with my 3/8" torque wrench.

Ill try to find that website

 

[AllianceDiesel]

Injectorsdirect.com

 

[Billy]

Thanks Accurate Diesel say they have brand new bosch injectors for around $320, that sound right?

 

[AllianceDiesel]

The only place I personally know that has brand new injectors is big bang injectors. I havnt seen new bosch injectors for years. Lots of people clain theirs are new and are just remand by bosch

 

[Billy]

OK I just ordered the injector. Does anyone know how to remove the exhaust lifter? I think it's called a lifter, it's blocking the injector bolts. The injector is the very last one, so I'm thinking of somehow putting mirrors above the work area, I'm not sure how I'm going to do it, it's way back there. LOL Do I have to adjust the valves? Any tricks that anyone knows about? Thanks as always for everyone's help!
As a side note my pump on the passenger said keeps running, I assume it's for the cruise control. Anyone have any idea what is going on with it? Thanks.

 

[Billy]

sag2- What after market fuel filters do you have installed on your truck?

 

[cerberusiam]

You just need to remove the exhaust rocker and mount. No need to set the vlaves if you JUST remove the moount and NOT touch the adjuster. The bolt in the center is the one you want to take out, then watch the bridge so you don't loose the cups that sit on each valve.

The pump on the passenger side is for the CC vacuum. You either have a leak in the line or the pump has gone bad.

 

[Billy]

Hey everyone- Good Morning. I'm in the process of removing the injector. The bolts holding it down was just hand tight, very loose. Do you think it was leaking because of that? I guess I could tighten it to specs and re-test it, what do ya'll think? I wonder how it got so loose? Thanks as always guys.