Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Leak and Replacing Fuel Lines.....

[Katmandu]

<!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> My 98 has a pretty bad fuel leak under the engine. It's a constant drip, drip, drip (while the truck is running).

I'm sure it's the supply line leaking somewhere but I haven't been able to pin-point it.

My mechanic said that it's a High pressure line (metal) that has the Quick Disconnect on it. He said the whole line needs replaced because it is one piece from the engine to the tank.

I thought I read it can be replaced with regular rubber fuel line. What's the deal here ??

Also, where does the supply line connect into coming from under the truck ??

 

[Joe G.]

Read this:

http://dieselram.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=45;t=000007



Let me know if you have any problem accessing that page. Your mechanic is wrong. The lines in question are low pressure and not one piece. There are quite a few things that can leak and look like a leak under the engine.

 

[wcjp]

Joe G



That page requires membership.



Here's some info from Dodgeram.org







# Low fuel economy and/or fuel leakage



* Fuel return hose behind the fuel filter has a reputation for failure and leakage

o Reported by several people including myself! Rams over 3 years old: beware!

o Regular fuel hose has a short life, use fuel injection line.

* Metal low pressure return line from the overflow valve cracked.





On my 96' I replaced both the supply/return lines and the fuel preheater/liftpump soft line. The lift pump soft line was the culprit. Later I had to replace the Orings in the liftpump. The liftpump is made out of plastic.



A friend with a 5. 9 pusher had a constant fuel drip. The copper seals on the overflow valve were bad. He had just bought the pusher. Don't know the history of repair(s).



When replacing the fuel lines use Coast Guard approved Marine grade line with new clamps. This is also a great time to replace the starter contacts. Removing the starter and front driveline makes the job easier. Hardest part of replacing the starter contacts is starter removal. My fuel lines had a somewhat hidden crimped fitting on one of the fuel lines that required a Dremel to remove. Be careful what you cut. LarryB

sells the starter contacts and fuel line.

 

[Joe G.]

Join that forum. It's free. Set your viewing option that has a time limit to all posts. The article is one I wrote based on mine and other people's experiences. It covers the entire fuel supply system; how it works, what can go wrong, and how to fix it if it does.

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

My 98 12v has a rubber hose behind the fuel filter. It got rotten and began to drip drip with the engine idling. I gained access by removing the left front wheel and the fender liner. USE GOOD JACK STANDS hydraulic jacks can NOT be trusted. A seal could rupture and crush you. I could reach the fuel filter and the line behind it easily sitting on a stool under the fender. There are some nice access holes. I found some auto trans hose which is much thicker and used that. So far so good but I do anticipate having to replace it again at some future time. Since it is more HD and thicker it is more trouble to install but worth the effort, I think. If you are due for a filter change it is the perfect time to do it. Buy one from the dealer for $50. 00 or spend $15. 00 for the same thing at an independent shop or parts store. I used an old aircraft trick and double clamped the hose at each end. It is between 6 and 9 inches long as I remember. You will no doubt break the plastic fasteners when you remove the fender liner. I went to Ace Hardware and bought hex head sheet metal screws and used fender washers. I have changed oil pressure sending units and my steering box by removing the fender liner and for me it is the best way to do a fuel filter change. -- email address removed --

 

[Joe G.]

Is your truck a 4X4? I tried that method with my '95 and had just a little bit more room to work.

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

My truck is a 2 wheel. Less space to work in but I am only 5-7 and 185. I am sure there is room for a larger guy. It is a more risky method. Jack stands should be safe, remember these Rams are double the weight of a car. Made in China scares me. Hydraulic jacks made in China or any where else should never be trusted. A seal can rupture for no reason and down she goes. -- email address removed --

 

[Joe G.]

I mean that I didn't have room to get my hands through the extra space. I had no trouble fitting under the fender. In fact, I was sitting on my roll around stool. My truck was up on four tall axle stands. Removeing the fender liner didn't make that much difference in access to the engine components. That was probably because the 4X4 has a different suspension. There is a coil spring and shock tower that is plugging up the access.

 

[Katmandu]

My truck was up on four tall axle stands. Removeing the fender liner didn't make that much difference in access to the engine components. That was probably because the 4X4 has a different suspension. There is a coil spring and shock tower that is plugging up the access.

Thank you both for the VERY informative helpful information. Very much appreciated!

My truck is a 4x4 as well.

What's the best way to access the fuel lines behind filter and pump ??

 

[hsmith]

Unbolting the master cylinder and moving it to the side will also help.

 

[Joe G.]

I don't know if moving the master cylinder will help on a hydro boost truck. It certainly does on our vacuum boost trucks. Removing the fuel filter does help a lot on a spin on filter truck. I don't know about the canister types. You might remove the starter.

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

Then I hope you won't have too difficult a time replacing the section of rubber fuel line after you get the fuel filter off. The shops that work on Rams do it from underneath. Maybe they are accustomed to having fuel drip on them. Then those that have a lift and can stand underneath have an easier time of it. Thanks for your reply, I learned from it. Too soon old and too late smart (an old German saying)

 

[AWray]

Eric - Did you get the fuel leak fixed?

 

[Katmandu]

Eric - Did you get the fuel leak fixed?

Hey Aaron. I "think" so. I thought I had it whipped the last time I talked with you, but it actually got worse FAST. Had a real steady drip, drip, drip going on.

I went over to B&M Auto (here in Troy) and had them replace that rubber piece for the return line that runs along side the block. It was a real PITA job for their mechanic (I was watching him do it).

There still is a real small leak somewhere. I just haven't had the time to look for it.

I had B&M replace the fuel cartridge while they were in there.

MAN! You will NOT believe how filthy that thing was !!! It was pitch black with a thick layer of SLUDGE built up on the elements!! :--)

I've been intending to take/post pics of it and show folks here, but then again, I just haven't had the time yet.

My truck is running 100% better!! Much smoother, stronger and better throttle response. Not sure whether that is do to repairing the leak OR changing out that nasty fuel filter. ??????

BTW! We have the SAME EXACT number of Postings here on TDR! LOL!

Gotta get some sleep now... ...

Catch ya later!

Oh! My truck just rolled over 200,000 miles the other day!