Fuel Leaking In Engine Compartment

[mberry]

JJ,

I believe it is that one, yes. It's been a while since I was under the truck. Sorry. This is my 3rd week of being sick. Wife and baby are doing ok so far. She got whatever I had/have and became severely dehydrated since she couldn't even keep water down. 5 IV bags of fluids later and an overnight stay and they're much better.

Andres, Glad to hear you got yours fixed too.

 

[mberry]

Anyone? Beuhler?

 

[mberry]

Andres,

Yes, we are finally getting well after 4 weeks of being sick. Thank you for asking. The status is; I'm waiting for Mr. JJPage to respond to my post. Other than that I'm completely clueless on this leak. I came as close to finding it as I know.

 

[JJPage]

Andres,



Yes, we are finally getting well after 4 weeks of being sick. Thank you for asking. The status is; I'm waiting for Mr. JJPage to respond to my post. Other than that I'm completely clueless on this leak. I came as close to finding it as I know.

I'm not quite sure how you want me to respond, but I will try. There are two rubber o-rings on the nipple of the FCA that could be leaking, there is an o-ring type of gasket on the gear pump case that also could be leaking. You said it appeared to be leaking at one of the torx plugs, it could also be a fitting or a line, or worse the pump case could be cracked but doubtful.



The only way to find out where it is leaking is to investigate... . I suggest you lift the hood, drop the inner fender liner out, spray a liberal amount of simple green on and around the CP3, and clean it thoroughly. Now, put alot of light on the area so you can get a very good visual, and start your truck. At this point you should be able to locate the leak, it may be just a matter of tightening a loose part. The URL of the breakdown of the CP3 I posted earlier should help you see what could be leaking, and how to repair.



If I were closer to your location, I would gladly give you a hand, but that's not the case.....



If you need to buy new parts, here is a good source: Common Rail

WICKED DIESELS, WICKED DIESEL

Good Luck, and keep us posted. Jess

 

[mberry]

Thanks for the help JJ and everyone else. It helps. I've been spending so much time working on the Land Cruiser I haven't done much with the truck at all. It's sad to see it sitting there in the driveway for weeks on end without being driven. I did drive it this past Saturday just to drive it, fuel leak or not.

 

[notron46]

leak

I think my 05 has a leak but the only thing I do on my truck is lube, oil and filters. Does anyone know a good diesel shop in the Orlando Fl area they would recommend?

 

[mberry]

I finallyhad to make some time to figure out where this leak is really coming from. It appears that the case is actually cracked. I know it has been leaking for some time but it was never really a problem until this winter came around.

I took the bolt/plug out that I thought the leak was coming from. No difference. Once I started the truck back up, it was a steady stream just like last time I drove it. So here is my dilemma;

1. Wife is due with kid #3 any day and we really need the vehicle. She's going to the Dr twice a week now.

2. Money. I wish it wasn't so but it is since we haven't won the Lotto yet. I found some on Ebay from a shop in Seattle for a reasonable price but they don't say what the core charge is. I can't afford to buy the pump PLUS an exorbitant core charge.

3. I have plenty of tools, but I don't have any manuals or instructions to replace the CP3. I've been a mechanic in some capacity most of my life but this one is not something I want to take on by myself with zero experience.

All this being said, does anyone know someone that can work with me on this, both money and experience wise, in my area? Any help is EXTREMELY appreciated.

 

[mberry]

Also, is there anyone that would be willing to email me some scans or PDF of the removal and reinstall procedure and any diagrams available? Thank you.

 

[rbattelle]

Here's the removal procedure and a picture of the drive gear puller. That puller is accessing the drive gear port on the front engine cover, which must be removed first for access to the drive gear (it'll be obvious when you look at it).

REMOVAL
CAUTION: Cleanliness cannot be overemphasized when handling or replacing diesel fuel system components. This especially includes the fuel injectors, high-pressure fuel lines and fuel injection pump. Very tight tolerances are used with these parts. Dirt contamination could cause rapid part wear and possible plugging of fuel injector nozzle tip holes. This
in turn could lead to possible engine misfire. Always wash/clean any fuel system component thoroughly before disassembly and then air dry. Cap or cover any open part after disassembly. Before assembly, examine each part for dirt, grease
or other contaminants and clean if necessary. When installing new parts, lubricate them with clean
engine oil or clean diesel fuel only.

(1) Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of both cables.

(2) Remove intake manifold air intake tube (above injection pump) and its rubber connector hose (Fig. 8).

(3) The Engine Control Module (ECM) is mounted to left side of engine (Fig. 9). Remove 5 ECM mounting
bolts and position ECM for injection pump removal. Do not disconnect wiring connectors from ECM.

(4) Remove cooling fan shroud.

(5) Remove cooling fan assembly.

(6) Remove accessory drive belt.

(7) Thoroughly clean the rear of injection pump, and attachment points for its 3 fuel lines (Fig. 10).
Also clean the opposite ends of these same 3 lines at their attachment points.

(8) Disconnect Fuel Control Actuator (FCA) electrical connector at rear of injection pump (Fig. 11).

(9) Remove fuel line (injection pump-to-overflow valve).

(10) Remove fuel line (injection pump-to-fuel rail).

(11) Remove fuel line (injection pump-to-fuel filter housing).

(12) Remove fuel pump drive gear access cover (plate) with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. Plate is
threaded to timing gear cover (Fig. 12).

(13) Remove fuel pump drive gear mounting nut and washer.

(14) Attach C3428B, or L4407A (or equivalent) gear puller (Fig. 13) to pump drive gear with 2 bolts, and separate gear from pump (a keyway is not used on this particular injection pump). Leave drive gear hanging loose within timing gear cover.

(15) Remove 3 injection pump mounting nuts (Fig. 14), and remove pump from engine.

 

[rbattelle]

And here's the installation... .

(1) Inspect pump mounting surfaces at pump and mounting flange for nicks, cuts or damage. Inspect o-ring surfaces for nicks, cuts or damage.

(2) Clean injection pump mounting flange at gear housing. Also clean front of injection pump.

(3) Install new rubber o-ring into machined groove (Fig. 14) at pump mounting area.

(4) Apply clean engine oil to injection pump o-ring only. The machined tapers on both injection pump
shaft and injection pump gear must be absolutely dry, clean and free of any dirt or oil film.
This will ensure proper gear-to-shaft tightening.

(5) Clean pump gear and pump shaft at machined tapers with an evaporative type cleaner such as
brake cleaner.

(6) Position injection pump to mounting flange on gear cover while aligning injection pump shaft
through back of injection pump gear.

(7) After pump is positioned flat to mounting flange, install 3 pump mounting nuts and tighten
finger tight only. Do not attempt a final tightening at this time. Do not attempt to tighten (pull)
pump to gear cover using mounting nuts. Damage to pump or gear cover may occur. The
pump must be positioned flat to its mounting flange before attempting to tighten 3 mounting
nuts.

(8) To prevent damage or cracking of components, install and tighten nuts in the following sequence:
(a) Install injection pump shaft washer and nut to pump shaft. Tighten nut finger tight only.
(b) Do preliminary (light) tightening of injection pump shaft nut.
(c) Tighten 3 injection pump mounting nuts to 8 N·m (70. 8 in. lbs. ).
(d) Do a final tightening of pump shaft nut to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs. ).

(9) Install drive gear access cover (plate) using a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. Plate is threaded to timing gear cover.

(10) Install Engine Control Module (ECM) to left side of engine.

(11) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-overflow valve). Tighten bolts to 24 N·m (17 ft. lbs. ) torque.

(12) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-fuel rail). Tighten to 24 N·m (17 ft. lbs. ) torque.

(13) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-fuel filter housing). Tighten to 24 N·m (17 ft. lbs. ) torque.

(14) Connect Fuel Control Actuator (FCA) electrical connector to rear of injection pump.

(15) Install intake manifold air intake tube (above injection pump). Tighten clamps.

(16) Install accessory drive belt.

(17) Install cooling fan shroud.

(18) Install cooling fan assembly.

(19) Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries.

(20) Check system for fuel or engine oil leaks.

 

[doug5cents]

My2005 is on the 3rd fuel line on #4 cyl injector line spraying fuel. the lines are crimped not brazed,the parts guy at dodge saw me walk in and went to get one without me asking. this is the shortest line on the motor and if you hear a ticking sound the little plastic clamps on the line are loose, third one in 130000 mi. i have taken the old one and silver soldered the ends and cut the line in half and soldered the cut end up so i can plug off high pressure and injector so i wont have to get towed home again or walk it will run on 5 cyl. will not run if the hp line goes



95 &05 2500 4x4s 1reg cab slt 1quad cab w all the crap.

 

[mberry]

Thank you Ryan and Doug5cents. I was driving this morning to Sacramento to get the injection pumps replaced. I didn't make it. I made it a total of about 20 miles when it died and left me and my daughter on the side of the freeway. I'm finally home about 2. 5 hours later after getting towed home by a coworker.

The CP3 is fried. It was smoking pretty good when I stopped and popped the hood. Definitely not right. So now I'm going to load it on a trailer and take it to Sac to have a new pump put on. Thank you for the help everyone. I really appreciate it.

As a footnote, I also found a small bolt on top of the gear case in front and above the cp3. That area is a little depression and I have no idea where this bolt came from. It is a star head. The head is sheared off and both pieces were laying on the case. Any ideas on where it came from? Thanks again.

Can anyone post or email me the illustrated parts breakdown of the CP3 like Ryan posted above?

 

[mberry]

After a new to me injection pump and for some reason a new to me rail pressure sensor my truck is back up and running without leaking fuel everywhere. I'm hoping to be able to pick it up sometime this weekend and take it for a nice long shakedown cruise.

Thanks everyone for your assistance.

 

[JJPage]

Cool mberry, glad you got it running!

 

[mberry]

Me too JJ. Now I just have to wait to get it home I have driven it so seldom that I didn't realize the registration was expired, get this, last September. Registration rates tripled Oct 1, so now I have to pay more than when the truck was new.