fuel line frustration

[dustoff]

well i tried for a couple of hours to replace my leaking line... i never got to first base... i tried from the top and from the bottom, but just did not feel comfortable to start cutting the old off without being able to see something of what i was doing... . i did manage to refresh my vocabulary of words i had not used in a while, and will try again when the weather breaks (it was 70 degrees when i tried working on it two days ago and it is 30 today and snowing/sleeting))... gotta love this southern weather... . anyway it might turn out to be such a PITA that i take it somewhere and have it done... bad on the ego but minus the harsh language i guess... cya

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'94 2500 4x4 3:54 auto prime-loc tst #6/230 DiPricol egt/boost

 

[Champane Flight]

Dustoff,It is a pain in the butt. I pulled the starter and wiggled up under the manifold to it. The bolts on the starter are 12 point 10mm.

Still not as bad as a control servo on a D-model.

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95 Dodge 2500 Luverne grill guard,headache rack,running boards and Amzoiled. Soon to be mildly bombed. 84 Dodge d-150, 318 Hooker headers,Edelbrok intake,mallory ignition,Carter Afb,Accel coil,and Custom dual exhaust. Boat,fifthwheel,motorcycles,and shop,job to support toys. Yuck...

 

[Joe G.]

dustoff,

Remove the fuel filter and the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the brake booster. You can then lean the master cylinder out of the way. That will give you enuff room to work from above. Since your's is a 4X4 you will need something to stand on. If you remove the starter that will also give you some room below. So far, I haven't had to remove the starter, but there are some rusty places where paint boiled away from the language needed to do the job.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[illflem]

If you remove the fuel filter and lay on top of the engine it keeps the cussing down about 2%.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[dustoff]

joe... i forgot to mention i had rotated the master cylinder, but did not try the starter removal. .

illflem... . lol... 2% ain't much, but i will try laying up there to see... . i have given thought to just disconnecting along the frame rail below the drivers door and just replacing all the way up and by-passing the connections along the bell housing... it's an option i guess..... thanks again

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'94 2500 4x4 3:54 auto prime-loc tst #6/230 DiPricol egt/boost

 

[The patriot]

Dustoff, look up my posts in reference to this. One is posted as "update on fuel leak" and the other is something like "fuel line size?"
Dont get me wrong, it's not an easy job when youre looking at it, but when youre done you'll say "that wasnt too bad".
HTH Eric
BTW I only went under it so I could see what I was actually doing. I replaced it from up top.
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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 275 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 02-12-2001). ]

 

[Missouri Mule]

dustoff'
Just did mine. Took me a while but I was taking my time.
I used a stool to lean over fender.
As others have sugested remove fuel filter.
My mechanic also suggested in removind fuel and fuel shut down relay to get the wiring harness out of the way. I also unplugged the fuel shut down solenoid connector. My master cylinder would not move more than inch with lines attached so I left on.
With fuel filter and wires out of way not bad shot at upper clamp(return line). Had trouble with the cheap screw clamp it would turn but not seperate from itself. If this happens a small screwdriver placed where it makes contact mite help it along(I cut hose and forced clamp off). The rest of clamps were pretty easy once the wiring harness connected to bell housing bracket was taken care of. ( I had wire harness wedged in between the rubber hoses with both screw heads facing harness. I removed bracket and cut off the tab holding harness to bracket. ) Hopefully your harness down there is situated differently. Once you get them off eveything goes back together faster than taking off. Good Luck!

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000