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Fuel line mods??

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Hello All,

I'm a new diesel owner and first time poster. I have worked on cars and 1/4 mile drag cars my whole life and now enjoy a beloved cummings. I would like to replace the low pressure fuel lines from the lift pump to filter to injection pump with custom braided line like I used on my race cars. Now for the questions. Does anyone know if the banjo bolts currently being used are standard "NPT" or are they "METRIC"?? If they are standard, it would be easy to get "NPT" to "AN" fittings and install #6 or #8 fuel lines. Would it also make sense to install a "T" with a drain valve in the line between the filter and the injection pump?? This would make it easy to obtain a filtered sample of fuel to refill the canister with when doing filter changes. It should also make it easier to bleed the air from the system when doing filter changes. Sorry for the long post, Just doing some mental gymnastics and brainstorming. Thanks for all your help at this great site.

Ron

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1998. 5 2500 quad cab long bed 4. 10 LSD automatic soon to be BOMBED
 
Ron, the fittings are metric, something like 12mm for a Weber carb. I used Aeroquip fittings and 3/8 braided line from the lift pump all the way to the injector pump. From the tank to the lift pump I have Jannetty Racing's 1/2" line kit.

You may also want to think about upgrading the lift pump as the stock one has a tendency to die without notice. I replaced mine with another Carter, but will be changing to a Barry Grant soon. Others have tried Holley and Mallory. You just have to find one that works.

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98. 5 3500 QC 4x4, Driftwood/Mist Grey, 5 spd, 3. 54, 19. 5 Alcoa's, Ranchhand bumpers, DeeZee toolbox, "Physcotty Air", TST PowerMax2, VA, 275's, Autometer Gauges, Centerforce clutch, Upgraded fuel lines (JRE and Aeroquip), MagHytec Diff Cover, PacBrake, Cowl Induction Hood
 
Ron, you need Weber carb adapters to screw in place of your banjo bolts, and your -6AN female fittings will attach to these.

You have no need to put a tee in between your filter and injection pump. You are one of the lucky ones with the good filter canister and can bleed your system or install a pressure gauge by cracking/removing the 1/8" NPT brass plug at the top of your canister. There are 2 plugs there, the one toward the front taps into the post-filter fuel, the other, prefilter.

Bob Novak just installed a fuel pressure gauge this weekend using an Autometer pressure transucer that screwed right into the bleed port and wiring to a gauge in the cab.

Brandon makes fuel line kits from Aeroquip parts. Contact him at brandonF@onemain.com

Vaughn
 
Jeff,& Vaughn,

Thanks for the reply's, Do the aeroquip weber carb adapters come in one metric size only, or will I have to specify 12mm? I'll be running down to my local speed shop to order some of these. I have tons of #6 left from the "good old racing days". Does the Ted Jeanetty 1/2" kit run from the tank to the lift pump? What's the kit consist of? Do I need to drop the tank and change the size of the line going into the sender?? Thanks again for the info.

Ron

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1998. 5 2500 quad cab long bed 4. 10 LSD automatic soon to be BOMBED
 
Ron, the JRE kit is several feet of 1/2" line and all the parts to rebuild the sender. You can do so by dropping the tank or lifting the bed. The sender has to come out for the 1/2" pickup tube to be installed and the new top for the larger fittings. The kit runs from the tank to the lift pump and requires drilling and tapping the lift pump for 3/8 pipe.

You can use five carb adapters, five 90 degree hose ends, three sections of hose and one hose clamp and replace the line from the point starting under the driver where the steel line turns into plastic up to the lift pump, from the lift pump to the filter housing, and from the filter housing to the injector pump. This would remove the restrictions and save some money.

The fittings for a Weber carb should be 12mm and would be different only for the different size -an line you want to use. You speed shop should know more about it.
 
Jeff,

Thanks for all the info, now all I need is some warmer weather to do this and a few other mods I have parts for in the garage. 4" exhaust and psychotty air are still in the boxes and a DTT convertor and VB are on their way. Thanks again.

Ron

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1998. 5 2500 quad cab long bed 4. 10 LSD automatic soon to be BOMBED
 
I have a 2001, has any one figured out how to upgrade the lines and either retain the test ports (so I can install fuel pressure sender) or incorportate some new place to install a fuel pressure sensor.

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John D. Rathert Jr.
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01 2500 Forrest Green Sport SLT+ QC LWB 4x4 Auto 3. 54 rear end with all options avail. DC Nerf Bars, DC Grill Gard, DC mud flaps, Line-X bed liner, Leer 160XL Topper, Power Edge, EZ Edge, SPA Boost/EGT Gauge on pillar mount, DDT's tc/vb combo, 275 RV injectors, DD 4" Exhaust and a KN RE0880 where the air box use to be. New turbo (HX40), SS fuel lines and bigger injectors in planning stages... . See My Truck, Dads truck: 98. 5 3500 SLT QC LWB 4x4, Brother Truck: 92 W250 SLT CC LWB 4x4 (Dads old truck) Winter fun - 2000 Skidoo Summit 700
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Hello JR2,

If the banjo bolts on the new trucks are the same as the ones on my 98. 5, It would be real easy to incorporate a "union" with a fuel pressure port in it in line going to the filter or to the injecton pump. If you look at an aeroquip or earls or russel catalog, you will see tons of fittings and adapters that can be used to make any configuration work. Thanks to the others here who answered my questions, about which fitting to replace the banjo bolt with, I will replace my lines with ease. Hope this helps.

Ron

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1998. 5 2500 quad cab long bed 4. 10 LSD automatic soon to be BOMBED
 
Guys
Iupgraded my fuel lines & had the same question myself regarding the test port. I have a fitting which has a threaded orofice
into wwhich you can screw a cap or a gauge or a line to a gauge. Idont think there is a fitting which will allow you to use a schraeder type test port. I havent installed the fitting yet but when i do i think i,ll just screw one of those glycerine filled gauges directly into the fitting as i dont need to monitor fuel pressure all the time. Hope this helps. Ian

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2001,2500 q-cab,auto 4x4,4. 10 anti-slip rearend. All options except leather seats. Line-x bed & tool box. Slide-in -removable rack,BFG 295,s ,Fender flares. Westin nerf bars,billet grill & fog inserts. Rancho,9000,s,Isspro gauges,1994 2500 4x4,12 valve,5 speed, bone stock for now.
 
The only problem with that Treeman is that you won't know your fuel pressure driving down the road. In my case I had 8 psi at idle - at little low (specs call for 10) but not bad. However, driving down the road it was ZERO!! I wouldn't have known that with a gauge under the hood. JMHO



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)
 
That's where my pressure gauge is also. I haven't hooked it up yet so I don't know what my pressure is. I'm on my second lift pump and I'm pretty sure it's dead also.
 
Are you guys getting your pumps replaced under warranty are you replacing them with a superior product to OEM. If so which brand is best. Ian

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2001,2500 q-cab,auto 4x4,4. 10 anti-slip rearend. All options except leather seats. Line-x bed & tool box. Slide-in -removable rack,BFG 295,s ,Fender flares. Westin nerf bars,billet grill & fog inserts. Rancho,9000,s,Isspro gauges,1994 2500 4x4,12 valve,5 speed, bone stock for now.
 
The first one I replaced myself, the 2nd one was under warranty (replaced by John Doe Dodge #ad
). I'm biding my time on the latest stock pump waiting for results to come back from the guys testing out aftermarket pumps. The only piece of advice on the aftermarket pumps I could give is don't use a Holley pump - they aren't up to the task of continuous use (have run them in off road trucks for years - have to replace them every 100-150 hrs).

-Steve
 
I've replaced mine on my own. It is a basic Carter electric pump. $400 from Dodge, $120 from Cummins, and $80 from Summitt or Jegs. Problem with the Summitt or Jegs replacement is the 3/8 pipe fittings instead of metric. I have replaced all my lines so I only needed one new fitting.
 
Steve,interesting, was the truck displaying any symptoms of 0 pressure ie still starting ok,accelerating as normal?I figured this was the closest i could get to the stock schraeders,without installing a gauge in the cab,maybe i should rethink that. In the grand scheme of things how important do you think it is to monitor the fuel pressure?Ihave the dual pod A-frame setup right now for trans-temp & egt,& am planning to add a boost gauge soon,no room there for a 4th gauge. Ian

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2001,2500 q-cab,auto 4x4,4. 10 anti-slip rearend. All options except leather seats. Line-x bed & tool box. Slide-in -removable rack,BFG 295,s ,Fender flares. Westin nerf bars,billet grill & fog inserts. Rancho,9000,s,Isspro gauges,1994 2500 4x4,12 valve,5 speed, bone stock for now.
 
well guys its me i have all the part numbers in hand, any one who wants part numbers or kits just gimme a call or email
right now i am trying to post all of this on my website for the world to see, but real work comes first
Brandon
209-578-1850
brandonF@onemain.com

you name it guys i can do it, part numbers are available in earls and xrp
if you guys want all the part numbers here just tell me
I have two trucks out there with spa's and full time fuel press in cab all my initial problems are about to be solved by wednesday
ps they are 01's


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END THE OPPRESSION FREE HVAC NOW
 
Treeman, the only sign it was displaying was it was hard to get the truck reprimed after a fuel filter change. Once I changed the lift pump there was better throttle response but it wouldn't be noticeable as the pump died because it would be such a gradual change. According to Mark Chapple (TST) you don't start getting a miss until you are pulling 5 inches of VACUUM #ad
!!! I'm on my 3rd lift pump now at 65,000 miles. The first replacement one only lasted 5,000 miles before it was to ZERO as well! This latest one is doing great. Given my history and others on the site (everyone I know that has put a fuel pressure gauge on their truck has replaced their lift pump) and the fact that the VP44 is cooled and lubricated by fuel I think it's absolutely necessary. JMHO Check out this post that I put up on my installation https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum3/HTML/002205.html - I put my gauge down below the dash just to the left of the shifter housing. You don't need to monitor it constantly so it doesn't need to be up at eye level, you just need to be able to read it going down the road.

-Steve
 
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