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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel line replacement

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My '97 CTD needs the fuel lines from the tank to the motor replaced. My dealer told me there are a total of 5 lines that need replacing. I know they're rusted badly and are leaking fuel all over my freshly paved driveway. My question is: Are there really 5 lines to replace? Or is this dealer just trying to "soak" me? Thanks, John
 
Well if you counted all the separate pieces that make up the fuel lines,filler and vent lines there are more than 5. There are 2 main lines that run along the frame rail. They both have lines that attatch to the front. ,Than there are also lines at the engine between filter pre-filter fuel pump,injection pump returns and on and on. Take a good look at your lines that are bad,then try to figure out the parts book. The book is not very good at showing what and where. Good luck... ... ...



Bob
 
I replaced my leaking hoses yesterday. I have never bothered to count the hoses, steel lines, etc. This is the second time I have replaced the hoses, never had a problem with the steel lines.



Do a search on fuel hoses, you will get the rest of the story.



It is about a one to two hour job on the hoses. You will need about 24 inches of 5/16 and 10 inches of 3/8 inch hoses, and clamps. You must use hose rated for diesel fuel. The hose will be identified as J30R7 or 30R7. This is not the best hose, but the least quality you want. The hose will cost between $1. 10 to $. 60 per foot. I suggest re-routing the 5/16 hose away from the engine, around the fuel filter. The first time is the hardest because the factory uses crimped hose clamps.



If you can wait on it, you would probably be better off with the Hose kit sold by LarryB.



If you really think you need to replace everything, I would use hose. TDR guys say it requires about 12 feet of each. I really doubt you need everything, but it is more profitable to the dealer. The hose is a repair any back yarder can do, providing they can cuss a lot.





Wayne
 
I would like to do the replacements myself, but I don't have the facilities to do it( 30" of snow the last 2 days) so my local dealer is doing it- and doing it to me! But I have no chioce since I plan on keeping the truck for a few more years. The steel lines are rusted and leaking. I just wanted to make sure the dealer is on the up & up about it. Thanks.
 
I still question the need for anything other than the hoses. However, obviously I am not there.



Lots of luck.



Wayne
 
This problem started about a month ago when I lost the rear brakes while plowing. The long steel brake line was rotted and finally let go. I brought the truck to a mechanic I trust and was told about the brake line. He wouldn't touch it for fear of the fuel lines being equally rotted and possibly leaking if touched. I found another mechanic to fix the brakes, and about 2 wks. later, the fuel lines started leaking. I assume it's the steel lines as I saw they were badly rusted. There are not too many diesel shops that I know of in central Mass. that can do the work needed, except for my local Dodge dealer who happens to sell and service heavy duty diesels also. I do plan on keeping this truck for a while longer so I want to fix it right.
 
Wow, didn't realize you were talking bout that severe of a rust problem. If you are trying to keep your truck exactly original your best bet is probably going to the dealer. Otherwise you might be able to get by with some good quality rubber line. I got some pieces at the local napa that was bout $5-$6/foot and is rated to handle gas, diesel, methanol, ect. When it warms up i'm going to change all the lines by the fuel heater/filter for preventative maintenance.



Jordan
 
I would suggest the dealer as a last resort.



I recommend you go to the first mechanic. Why? You suggested you trusted him and he suggested you take your truck somewhere else because he was concerned he could not meet your needs . This shows intergarety, I would like to keep him in business. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind he can do the job, what ever it takes.



Do a search as I previously stated. I suggest you replace all tubing with a rubber hose, about 12 feet as I recall. Do not replace with factory parts.



If you print out the thread that explains replacing all lines with hose, your mechanic will understand. He will need a few tiewraps. Use the hose with the J30R7 or 30R7 marked on the hose. If he wants to do a deluxe job, tell him to due the flare trick on the line he cuts at the fuel tank end to assist the clamp in holding the hose on. If you use this method, the next time you replace these hoses (and you will), it will be a piece of cake.



Expect to pay for about two hours labor plus hose at . 60 to 1. 00 dollar per foot. There is higher quality hose available, but you will pay for it.







Wayne
 
Jordan & Wayne, thanks for the info. I'm bringing it to the local dealer as the firsr mechanic doesn't want to touch a diesel fuel problem, or any diesel. The dealer is my last resort as they will touch it ( and my wallet) and fix it right as they touch many diesels. Now if the snow will stop falling for a little while...





PS Jordan, I like the "officer" line.
 
May the force be with you. If your dealer is like all of those I have experienced, you will need all the help youi can get. Let us know the final outcome.





Wayne
 
When someone tells you take it somewhere else it means he does not want to do it... ..... it is not a sign of integrity. Possibly he is admitting he is not qualified... ...

You should not condem a dealership you don't know.

I suggest you meet the diesel tech and then decide :)



Bob

Reddog1 said:
I would suggest the dealer as a last resort.



I recommend you go to the first mechanic. Why? You suggested you trusted him and he suggested you take your truck somewhere else because he was concerned he could not meet your needs . This shows intergarety, I would like to keep him in business. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind he can do the job, what ever it takes.



Do a search as I previously stated. I suggest you replace all tubing with a rubber hose, about 12 feet as I recall. Do not replace with factory parts.



If you print out the thread that explains replacing all lines with hose, your mechanic will understand. He will need a few tiewraps. Use the hose with the J30R7 or 30R7 marked on the hose. If he wants to do a deluxe job, tell him to due the flare trick on the line he cuts at the fuel tank end to assist the clamp in holding the hose on. If you use this method, the next time you replace these hoses (and you will), it will be a piece of cake.



Expect to pay for about two hours labor plus hose at . 60 to 1. 00 dollar per foot. There is higher quality hose available, but you will pay for it.







Wayne
 
Bob4x4 said:
When someone tells you take it somewhere else it means he does not want to do it... ..... it is not a sign of integrity. Possibly he is admitting he is not qualified... ...

You should not condem a dealership you don't know.

I suggest you meet the diesel tech and then decide :)



Bob





I am sure glad you cleared that up for me. I really had no idea that when someone suggests you take a vehicle to a dealer that they were saying they were not qualified. I believe that if someone stated or implied they were not a know-it-all they might have integrity. Silly me. :rolleyes:



"I would suggest the dealer as a last resort. " Which dealership did I condemn? What does a diesel tech have to do with my suggestion, as stated?



Although the mechanic J Shocik trust may choose not to do the repair, I am confident he could. I bet you could even do it. Then again, maybe you couldn't. I really don't know if you could or not. Interesting that you are so sensitive to the suggestion someone other than a dealer could do the job.



As to the degree of difficulty, a simple straightforward job.



My experience is that a dealership will typically have a higher shop rate than most non-dealership shops. Unless there are special tools or skills required, I would use a dealer as a last resort. Now if I worked for a dealer, or owned a dealership, I might think or say differently.







Wayne
 
Bob4x4, I just looked at your profile, I can see why you might be sensitive. Perhaps had you read my post more closely you would not have taken offense.



Personally, I have no vested interest in offering a TDR member advice on options to repair their truck. Do you?





Wayne
 
I didn't think this thread would get this much interest. WOW!! My 1st mech. didn't want to touch the leaking brake line for fear of causing the equally rusted fuel lines to leak if disturbed. It turns out he was right. He also doesn't work on diesel fuel systems or engines. That left me with bringing it to the dealer because I know the repair will be done right(not cheap). I don't want to bring it to the 2nd mech. because he also doesn't work on diesels and I don't want him using my truck as a guinea pig to learn.



I'm a little reluctant bringing it to the dealer because I know he is going to **** me through the wallet HARD! But I have no choice if I want the truck fixed right. I trust them to do the repairs right. I didn't trust them with the estimate of parts needed, that's why I posted this thread. Thanks to all of those who replied, I now feel confident with the estimate of parts needed. I have an appointment Feb. 2nd for the repairs. While he has it, I'm having him replace the fuel sending unit since he's droping the tank anyways. I'll report how the service went after I recover from repair sticker shock. Thanks, John
 
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In my short 45 yrs on earth I have learned to not equate paying a high price with surely it will be done right. Heck, if it is half as easy as others have said it is the job will probably be given to the shop broom boy who gets the easy jobs as he is trying to work up to mechanic. Paying the most exhorberant shop rate is no guarntee it will be done right. You said yourself they were going to blank you through your wallet. A haircut at the local beauty college by a student (6. 00) is every bit as good as the twelve dollar haircut would pay anywhere else.
 
I agree with CTait, in that it is pretty straightforward job. If the mechanic is honest, and has a competitive shop rate, it would not be of a great concern to me that he had not done this particular repair before. We are replacing a fuel line, not setting the timing.



I would think the dealer could tell you the cost before they even started the job. If you replace all lines, I can't imagine the cost of the lines changing before the project is done. There is no great mystery in the labor; the flat rate manual or they’re past experience. Their past experience is their clam to fame right?



Unfortunately, it is not the mechanic that determines the cost. Usually it is not the mechanic that determines the time required. The dealer has a much different overhead (than a repair shop only) to consider, and this influences the repair cost. I have experienced shops (dealer and otherwise) that pad the parts cost or hours required. With all respect to Bob4x4, it is not at all uncommon. With this particular project, I would not be particularly concerned on the skill level. Most shops (dealers or otherwise) would give this project to their least skilled.



Each dealer has to live with the reputation of his or her counterparts. That is unfortunate. I have done business with several dealers in my 62 years. Both in purchasing a vehicle, parts and service. I have done business with all of the big three. I can honestly say that I have never been impressed with the cost, service or quality of work (parts or labor). I have never gone to the same dealer more than two times. If someone takes offense to that, it is unfortunate. I paid the bill, not them. What I have experienced with dealers is not unique to them, a good mechanic shop, and mechanic is hard to find. Please don’t ask me how I really feel.



You circumstances suggest you haven't much choice other than the dealership. Hopefully, your dealer and the dealer’s mechanic will do you a good job at a reasonable cost.





Wayne
 
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