Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel line upgrade

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) High Egt's - Why?

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) P7100 oil level???

Status
Not open for further replies.
I want to replace my fuel line when I replace my lift pump, which will be within 6 months. I want to go with -AN braided SS lines and -AN fittings. What size line should I use? What size are the fittings for the lift pump and fuel filter housing? How do you connect the new -AN line to the fuel tank? Do you have to drop the tank and remove the pick up or do you just splice it in? For those who have done this how mush line did you need? Is the braided SS pretty easy to work with ( I've never worked with it but love the way it looks)?



When I'm done, will I have to bleed the air from the lines by loosening the injector nuts or will the "bump the starter" trick work. ALso I was thinking if I drained the fuel filter canister and ran the lift pump with the drain open that the canister would refill and purge the air from the canister back to the tank pretty easily. I think that the remaining air would purge with the bumped starter. WHen I did my FP gauge it only took 3 cycles to get it to fire and run. It fired on the second but ran real rough so I did it again.



Sorry for the long and multi question post but I'm really getting into working on my truck my self ( even though I only have 20K and plenty of warrant left, I dont trust the stealers)Plus it gets me away from my pregant hormonal wife for a few hours!



Thanks in advance.



J-



Also while I'm doing all this work should I just move the lift pump back by the tank. I have no "real" BOMBs, just scotty II everything else is stock, performance wise.
 
Search

J-



You may want to consider doing a search on this topic. There are hundreds of pages on this subject.



You are to be commended for addressing this issue;)
 
I up grade my fuel system. I used -06 fuel line, -06 is 3/8 inch. The fittings into the fuel filter are metric and are commenly called Weber fittings. You will need about 8 feet of fuel line.



I did not remove the tank. I cut the line and spliced into the line changing it to AN fittings.



I did this at the same time as replacing the the lift pump locating it by the tank.



It's best to do this in one shot. It's not the amount of work involved but the cost of the lines and fittings.



Here are some pictures of my install



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=11403&albumid=273



I hope the link works.



If you have any questions please feel free to get in touch with me.



Craig
 
Well J,



You will definately not have to worry about trusting the stealers after this... . you wont have any warranty left!!!



But fear not... doing this will probably help you from having problems with the injector pump in the first place. Even if you didn't have any mods like this... the scotty II would probably void your remaining 80K miles of warranty in most dealers. Just a fact of Dodge life. Warranty works for some... but dont take it for granted.



But I think you are doing the right thing. I just need to get the time like you.



As far as purging air, I put a valve on the post filter plug of my cannister. I can then easily hook clear tubing to it, open it and purge most all the air out after a filter change. The tube I use goes over the fender to can I have sitting there to catch the diesel. No mess.
 
hey cscott,



How is that PE pump working?? How long have you had it?? Wow what a thread... SS lines... AN fittings... and PE pumps. And I didn't even have to start this one. :D
 
The PE4100 is working great.



I put it in in June and have about 10K miles on it.



I abused it y not changing my fuel filter and let it get clogged.



My fuel pressure was down to about 6 psi before I changed the filter. After changing the filter it returned to 12 psi at idle and 10 psi on the highway at about 65 mph.



I plan to remove it and send it in to Product Engineering and have them take it appart to check for wear.



I think the AN fittings reduce the back pressure which will help the pump live longer.



If you have any questions please let me know.



Craig
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top