Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Lines

[Breed]

I just bought Larry B's new fuel lines for my 1998 Quad Cab, 12 Valve, 2500. I brought the truck brand new and have 76,000 miles. Does anyone know the procedure for replacing the two fuel lines? I have a manual but it doesn't state how to change the lines. The kit came with two fuel lines and four clamps but no directions and I was worried about losing prime, ect. Any information will be really appreciated.

Thanks,

Breed

 

[SSSmith]

I'm installing the same kit on a 95, 4X4, standard cab. My problem is that the lower clamps have the bolt heads up against and facing the firewall. How does one remove these clamps?



They appear to have been assembled first to the lower steel line section then threaded up past the engine. The steel section is then connected to the tank fuel line. The steel line connectors are not described in the manual. Anyone have advice on breaking these connections, or a better approach to accessing the lower hose claamps? The steel connectors are a funnel shape affair with no obvious release tab or key. Breaking these will probably require draining the tank. Is that right and does anyone have tips to make this easier at home? I figure there are about 25 gal in the tank.



The lower hose clamps might be accessible if the clamp fixing the steel line sections to the frame is removed. Is the this the trick? I thought of it just as I'm writing this.



As to missing instructions, the theory is simple. Remove the old clamps and hoses and replace with the new. The problem is the inaccessability of the clamps. First locate the hoses and clamps and determine if you want to deal with the lack of access. I reomoved the starter and the fuel water separator for access and the clamps are still very hard to reach. Maybe more should be removed. Accessibility at the bottom is complicated by the presence of the pumpkin and drive shaft. You may not have this issue.



If the 98 is similar to the 95, losing prime is not a problem. You can use the lift pump button to restore prime and bleed the high pressure lines if necessary. Those procedures are in the book.



Hope this helps you and we get some clever advice from others.



Spike

Portland, OR

 

[SSSmith]

Breed,



I found in the archives a good procedure by WBusa, May 2005. Responses are good too.

 

[Joe G.]

Spike,



You can make more room by removing the starter. Remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster. There is enough give in the plumbing that you can lean the master cylinder toward the fender. If the clamps on your '95 are screw on they are not original. The original clamps were crimp on so you need to cut them off. If you feel you need more room remove the fuel filter and the front drive shaft.

 

[SSSmith]

Joe,

Thanks for the tips. I did all you suggested and I have the old hoses off. I'll put the new ones on tomorrow.



The key for me was to get the steel sections above the braided lines free of the hold down clips. This allowed me to pull the hoses away from the firewall for access to the hose camps.



The return hose is very cracked on the outside of every bend. I suspect this is the source of the loss of prime problem.



Interestingly, three of the hose clamps were screw-type. One was a crimp-type. I cut that one with a dremel tool. It was too hard for one handed side cutters.



Larry B's clamps seem a bit large. I'll get smaller ones tomorrow also, if I can find good quality ones at NAPA.



Thanks, again.

 

[Breed]

Thanks, I really appreciate the info, Damn! What a pain in the butt, I got the hoses from Larry B's, did the Starter Contactes last year and worked great. I am having trouble starting the truck, it starts then dies and takes a while to get going again, works great after truck is started once. I bouth the 98 12 valve, brand new and have done all the work myself, and its been a problem cuz I'm just a backyard mechanic.

Thanks again,

Breed

Dayton, Nevada

 

[Breed]

Thanks, I am looking it up right now, thanks again,

Breed

Dayton, Nevada