2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel module replacement

[tractorface]

Took the bed off my truck to work on the Fuel tank. Tired of the very irradic, no-functional fuel gauge, and have an occasional mystery leak since The FASS was installed... ... >>WAALAA! Mystery leak solved. The fuel tank module has several "ports" with rubber grommets where fuel lines etc. enter tank. The supply and return lines are made of metal and are welded into a metal cap that sits in a rubber grommet on top of the module. Anyway the rusty @$$ metal has some holes in it. Can I purchase just that part and say maybe a gauge or am I going to get slammed for a whole module?? If I can only purchase the whole enchilada I thinks I might just modify the damn thing. Anyone that has had one of these things in there hands has had to ponder the reasoning behind a floating fuel "pod" My guess is the engineers want to stay off the bottom of the tank until absolutely necessary. ANyway My bombing would include replacing this insane metal supply return fitting with a 3/8 fuel pickup tube of some type including a footvalve. Anyone ever see what other cars/trucks use as a pick up. All my expierience is with stationary fuel tanks and I am having trouble deciding the best way to "pickup" fuel from the bottom of the tank. I will then use the capped of spare return Dodge so kindly installed for my use. Will replumb the FASS return here as well enabling me to fill while running. Anyway fuel modules SUCK. :{

 

[Shelton]

Not really an uncommon problem. Mine did the same thing a few months ago. The complete module is around $400 list from the dealer ($300 garage price) and you can't get just the fuel line portion.



I ended up removing the rust and covering all the exposed metal surfaces with a diesel resistant epoxy (the metal was still pretty solid). Been running that way for a few thousand miles with no issues. Probably will have to replace sometime, but...



The currently available module replaces the metal with plastic, so no more rusting, although the plastic introduces its own problems as some have broken off the feeds.



Here's one custom fab for this part of the module

 

[tractorface]

Thanks

Yeah just got off the phone with Dealer, they want $400. ouch. The plastic looks like I'll break it fast. Did not think about using existing pickup assembly and retrofitting the top. Hmm may be the route I take.

What about the pickup tube. First, Which way does the red plastic screen doohickey go. (screen up or screen down) Yeah I pulled it off without looking. Will a standard pickup tube with a footvalve work? Looks like DC designed the return to dump on the filter, presumably to assist in "cleaning it" Anyway. Not sure what route I want to take. Even thinking about having work build me a custom aluminum tank for that kind of bread. I don't like the stock gauge anyway am thing of using a "no moving parts" capacitive sender anyway.

Thanks in advance

 

[johnrv4]

You might want to check NAPA or these guys.

I know that NAPA sells repair lines that could possibly be adapted to use on our fuel tank modules. Check this out also. They sell repair parts for fuel lines. I was thinking about going this route on a friends truck. Here's the link: http://webapp1.lawsonproducts.com/website/showItem?itemNum=29233

 

[nbr1trucker]

Hi, I was thinking of just getting rid of the stock tank and putting a 100 gal semi tank in the bed and plumbing it the same as the semi. what do you think of that. thanks Ian

 

[Joe G.]

I have a 50 gallon tank in the bed rigged so that it pumps into the stock tank. One thing that is very noticable is that when that tank is full it changes the roll center on turns. 100 gallons would be worse.

 

[onstottc]

This was a miserable job for me. I broke one of my quick connectors. Instead of paying $400 for another Rube Goldberg fuel module, I rebuilt the head of the unit with . 25" copper pipe, 1" pipe cap and nipple and other assorted hardware I had sitting around. I would look into the napa lines listed in this thread. You might also consider eliminating the quick connect fittings altogether and using hose clamps.



I think the module is designed to slide to accommodate the expansion and contraction of the tank. There is a float valve in the bottom of the module that may be there to prevent air from getting into the system when the tank is empty?



It would also be wise to fix your sending unit. Install a bolt, spring and washer in your sending unit to keep it from dying after 50,000 miles.

 

[GRhoades]

onstottc: what do you mean by fixing the sending unit, installing a bolt, washer and spring??????. i have mine apart right now for the same problems as above.

 

[onstottc]

Here is a link to the type of repair I did: http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender.htm