Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel module screen

[TURBOs4LIFE]

I had a leak on the top of my tank and decided to drop the tank to find out why. Dropping the tank went well and found out where the leak was. The roll over valve has a oring on it that was dry rotted. I decided to inspect the inside the tank and the module while the tank was down. I found the screen was really dirty with trash but when I tried to remove it from the module to clean it the screen fell apart in my hands. I cleaned the tank and totally removed the screen so it didnt get sucked into the supply line. Put everything back together and now have no leaks! I created another issue however..... When the tank is lower that 1/4 and coming to a stop I lose prime for 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a problem I need to be concerned with? Anything I can do minus buying a new module? Should I just keep the tank above 1/4 of a tank and just live with it? Thanks for the help!

 

[JLandry]

I had the same experience as you when I recently dropped my tank to replace the fuel level sending unit. When I attempted to remove the fuel pickup screen for cleaning I tore the inner one... the one inside the module that filters fuel returning from the engine. I didn't have time to do any major surgery, so I just put it back together and intend to deal with it in the next few weeks. I just completed a trip pulling my travel trailer and didn't noticeable any problems, but except I almost never let the fuel level drop lower than 1/4 tank.



My thought is to completely remove the screen and attach a flexible home-made "flop tube" to lay on the bottom of the tank with a small mesh filter on the end. Weighted flop tubes are used in the fuel tanks of some aircraft so the fuel pickup always lays on a wall of the tank where the fuel is due to gravity... as when flying inverted.



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[Fishin Guide]

The screen keeps some fuel above the pickup area int eh stock configuration. This prevents sucking air.



Dave

 

[Huff N Puff]

Its a dangerous situation

I had a leak on the top of my tank and decided to drop the tank to find out why. Dropping the tank went well and found out where the leak was. The roll over valve has a oring on it that was dry rotted. I decided to inspect the inside the tank and the module while the tank was down. I found the screen was really dirty with trash but when I tried to remove it from the module to clean it the screen fell apart in my hands. I cleaned the tank and totally removed the screen so it didnt get sucked into the supply line. Put everything back together and now have no leaks! I created another issue however..... When the tank is lower that 1/4 and coming to a stop I lose prime for 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a problem I need to be concerned with? Anything I can do minus buying a new module? Should I just keep the tank above 1/4 of a tank and just live with it? Thanks for the help!

For the VP44,If I were you I'd put in the updated fuel module that locates the pump in the tank,for stock applications for heavier fueling applications gang it up with a second pump out side the tank.

 

[grimesja]

I would strongly advise against the intake pump setup. I have done that and I would not recommend it. I had to install a Holley blue to boost up the pressure. I would go with a big line, eternal screen filter and an aftermarket fuel pump. FAST, Raptor or something like that.

 

[TURBOs4LIFE]

Yea I already have a FASS. Does anyone have a place I can get a new module or is it a dealer only item?

 

[Huff N Puff]

The Stock in Tank Module is very Restrictive

Yea I already have a FASS. Does anyone have a place I can get a new module or is it a dealer only item?

A drop tube is prone to pulling air,the intank pump module is the simplest way to increase the volume coming out of the tank without pulling air.

 

[TURBOs4LIFE]

Do I need to buy a in tank pump module and convert it somehow? Fill me in on what is done with it. Thanks

 

[Huff N Puff]

Dodge sells an updated in tank module kit.

Do I need to buy a in tank pump module and convert it somehow? Fill me in on what is done with it. Thanks

The kit comes with an intank pump module,a wiring kit,with relay,a manifold that replaces the old lift pump. For stock fueling the intank pump will be adequate to move enough fuel. If you are fueling harder with power adders,you will need to install an additional pump in the stock location. You can power both pumps with the same relay. The complete kit also comes with a decent set of instructions.

 

[TURBOs4LIFE]

Is this set up better than the FASS? WOW I have been here for years and never heard of taking of a FASS to do this?!? Can this new module be made to run with the FASS? I never thought that tearing that screen would cause so much trouble

 

[LowFly]

Actually what i would reccommend is a product by Vulcan Performance called the "Draw Straw" It is a suction tube/return line draw straw that not only allows max flow of fuel but will also fix the 1/4 tank issue of sucking air. Here is some more info on that
Draw Straw II 1/2 in. draw tube and 1/2 in. pushlock fitting

It is a great product and it works. Give it a look and see if this is something that will help you.

 

[TURBOs4LIFE]

Thanks LowFly! How does the IV DrawStraw stop the 1/4 tank issue over the DrawStraw I? I see that you have to drill a hole in the tank. Do you still have to drill a hole even though I dont have the In tank module? Anyone have a picture of this setup? This looks to be a low cost fix to my issue!

 

[Huff N Puff]

The Fass is a good pump

Is this set up better than the FASS? WOW I have been here for years and never heard of taking of a FASS to do this?!? Can this new module be made to run with the FASS? I never thought that tearing that screen would cause so much trouble

The problem is,you are suppling it with a very restrictive system,that plauges our trucks,as small as 1/4 of an inch in some places. If you want the full potential of a high performance pump outside the tank, you need to supply it with 1/2inch line or larger. Problem with this, as you already can see. Below 1/3 of a tank, slosh from normal driving up a steep hill, hard braking or hard acceleration, could cause pump cavitation which is devastating on the already weak VP44

 

[LowFly]

Thanks LowFly! How does the IV DrawStraw stop the 1/4 tank issue over the DrawStraw I? I see that you have to drill a hole in the tank. Do you still have to drill a hole even though I dont have the In tank module? Anyone have a picture of this setup? This looks to be a low cost fix to my issue!

This system fixes the 1/4 tank issue y the way it uses the return fuel from the pump. When you draw fuel out of the tank with it it draws it into the inside of the tube. The return fuel comes into a fitting that allows the return fuel to go around the OUTSIDE of the draw tube! It is a cool setup, As long as your returning fuel, you will have fuel at the tube.



Yes you do have to drill a hole in the tank and yes, you will have to drop the tank to install it.



here is the info for it

Draw Straw II 1/2 in. draw tube and 1/2 in. pushlock fitting



Good luck