Fuel Pin
This post is to hopefully help someone else that might end up in the same situation. Lord knows TDR and it's wonderful members sure have helped me out.
I'll start from the beginning, over the past few months I started losing boost, at first a little then a little more from 17psi down to 8psi. It was erratic, sometimes boost would come back up. I figured it was starving for fuel and did the usual ( filters, fuel pressure etc. ) everything checked out. I became familiar with the fuel pin from TDR and decided to take a looksee. I had a difficult time getting the AFC diaphram and eccentric out, I've had this out in the past but this time was more difficult. I know now what happened, as I pulled up on the diaphram it pushed the fuel pin deep into the rust and goo with the fat bottom part of the eccentric. I used all kinds of lubes and picks plus rotating the throttle shaft and nothing worked. So here we go.
On the front of the injection pump is a small cap that on my pump was blocked by the throttle linkage/arms, I've read that on some pumps it is not.
I'll assume you already have the the AFC housing top and throttle postion sensor if its and auto trans already off. Mines an auto by the way.
Remove the springs attached to the top arm. You don't need to pop the knuckle off the arm, you can just leave it hang - your choice.
If you look at the very top of the shaft coming out of the pump you'll notice a slit, like for a small screwdriver. Note the general orientation of the slit at idle. Mine was around 10:00 O"clock and 4:00 O'clock.
Remove the nut holding the arms in place, on an auto trans this is also where the Trottle pos. sensor bolt sits in (8mm allen).
Remove the top arm, note the large fiber washer and small spring washer between the arms and remove them.
Very Important - On the top of the second arm note the tick or hash marks in relation to the slit at the top of the shaft. Mine was about 10:30 & 4:30. Also note the second arm sits on a spline at the bottom of the shaft. Now if things came apart on ya and you weren't able to catch the tick/slit orientation, I'll cover that in a bit.
Lift up on the lower arm and unhook the return spring from the arm and not the pump with a pick or whatever is avaiable. You can remove the plastic cup that sits in the return spring if is gets in the way, just remember which is the top.
Now you can get to the cap on the front of the pump. Unscrew it (5mm allen) and a little fuel will spill out. In there you'll see flat lever with a half moon cut out of the top. This is the lever that pushes the fuel pin when you turn throttle shaft. There is no spring between the lever and the pin (as I thought there might be) its in direct contact with the fuel pin.
Now I inserted the largest flat head screwdriver I could fit down the AFC housing where the eccentric goes and orientated it perpendicular to stop the fuel pin from flying into there when it was pushed from the other end. I really don't know if it can drop in there and didn't want to find out.
I used the short end of the 8mm allen and pushed on the half moon lever straight to the rear of the pump. To my surprise it took some force.
Now I was able to move the pin back and forth between the allen and screwdriver and spray it with PB Blaster. After the pin was good and free, I poured a small amount of diesel in the AFC housing and wicked it out with paper towels and Q-Tips to remove as much of the PB Blaster as I could, I did this several times.
Now after you get everything reassembeled and it won't idle or it idles to high (providing you didn't play with power screw or the smoke screw). Its the orientation of the lower throttle arm and the slit on the throttle shaft. Yes you get the joy of removing the top arm and and moving the lower arm over a tooth on the spline (Turn shaft Counter Clockwise to increase idle, Clockwise to decrease). Prior to taking it apart again, make sure the lower arm comes into contact with the low idle screw (it may have gotten pinched during assembly causing a false high idle). Also the throttle shaft tends to sink into the pump a little when its unbolted so it helps to pull up on the shaft with one hand,and orientate the tick and slit mark with the other. Keep repeating this step till it idles like you remember. Be sure that there isn't any binding between the throttle arms and pump, it should operate smoothly.
Finally, you may need to ajust the Throttle Postion Sensor (Auto Trans) if it doesn't shift right.
Hope this isn't to confusing to follow
My rig is now back to full boost and power!
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
