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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Plate/Afc Cover again

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Just joined, slow learner. I have seen the drawing by KMahnke for grinding the fuel plate, but don't feel knowledgeable enough yet to go digging around in a precision piece of machinery. Retired weldor and fair mechanic. Would like step by step guide (including pitfalls) to get to, remove and replace fuel plate. What is the AFC cover and how does it and the fuel plate slide back and forward. I have installed a 3 gage A pillar cover with EGT, Trans temp, and 0 - 35 psig boost gages. also a Piers boost elbow. Replaced the stock muffler and cat with a 3" straight pipe and 3" Flowmaster. Also adapted a GMC Airaid intake box and filter that was given to me. (The big conical filter). The truck is strong up to about 45 mph pulling a 6000# travel trailer, but flattens out quickly above 55-60 mph. New fuel filter, but don't know the lift pressure at the outlet of the filter. Next gage.



Truck is a '97 2500 Xcab 2 WD w/ auto trans and 3. 54 L/S gear. Bought new, now has 132,500 mi. Best truck I've ever had.



All the info I need is probably available if I could find it, but I could use some help. I am computerly challenged. I still believe they're just a fad and aren't going to catch on.
 
Here is a cut away diagram for the AFC and fuel plate with some of the components labeled. The AFC is located on top of the rear of the injecition pump. Four screws hold it in place. If it's removed you can see the top of the plate. It is fastened to the pump with two screws.



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The fuel plate is under the AFC and the AFC is located on the back of the injection pump next to the fuel shutoff soleniod and in front of the fuel filter.



I have found that TST products web site had a very good instuction sheet you can print off thier web site just click on fuel plate in thier power upgrades section and then click on the instructions.

or type in and search for the instructions here TST website would be faster though.
 
Have you done the KDP yet??

Mr "T";

while you are up grading the power, and your ride is a "97" you need to consider doing the DOWEL PIN. You do not want to have it come out and destroy your engine. Do a search on this while your searching for the power up grades. The 97's are notorious for loosing the pin.

Marv.
 
MLee said:
Mr "T";

... ... and your ride is a "97" you need to consider doing the DOWEL PIN. You do not want to have it come out and destroy your engine. Do a search on this while your searching for the power up grades. The 97's are notorious for loosing the pin.

Marv.
Amen to that! Mines a 97 and when I did mine it was out at least 1/8 inch. Also, just as important as the KDP, is checking/tightening and loctiting the 12-13 timing case bolts holding the timing case to the block so they don't fall out and cause the same or worse damage.



dave
 
Thanks for the info, pictures, and recommendations. I did go to the TST site and access their instructions for the plate kit and the KDP kit. Very thorough. I am convinced that I need to do the KDP before anything else now. The risk ain't worth it.



I just learned today that my engine has a fuel heater/pre-filter. If the Dealer Tech knows about it, he hasn't mentioned it. Question... can it clog, is it serviceable ? I am positive it has never been serviced. Their parts Tech also doesn't know it exists.



If my stock fuel plate will slide forward, will that help 60 mph performance ? How about the cover ? TST recommends 230 hp and 500-550 ft# max for my trans. That would be satisfactory to me.



Thanks again for the help. Tom
 
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