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Fuel Plate ?

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ATF every other fill up????

Evap Control

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Ok I bought a used plate. It has NO markings. How do I tell what # or size it is? I can measure it, but I don't have anything to reference it to. I would like to have some idea of how much power it may have before I install it this weekend. Thought I would start with it in the least power postion first, and see what EGT's I get and how much boost it makes. Then go from there with TC and valve body changes before I start making much more power, and other changes.
 
DieselTim,



Compare yours against that one. You can measure from the back side/flat side of the plate to the front where all the curves are. If the distances are less on this one, it'll allow more rack travel & more fuel.



If it does add more fuel, then I'd start a little less conservative & start with it 3/4 of the way forward. If you've got an automatic, take er easy. :D :D
 
I was planing to compare it to the stock one. What I really wanted to know is after I measure it, how do I deside which plate # it compares to so I can decide what HP range it maybe capable of, so I don't destroy the transmission. or something else with too much power too soon. :D It is just that I like to know what I have before I get too far into something. I do plan on transmission and TC changes, just as soon as I get my 4post lift put together. 4" exhaust and injectors soon after the transmission work.



The plate that I have is slotted to make it adjustable, so I don't believe it is stock. The guy I got it from had taken it out of his 12V when he got a new 24V. He said with this plate he got lots of smoke, both tire and fuel... so we shall see.



















:D :D :D :D :)
 
A TST plate will have a profile something like the plate on on the left, a stock plate will look something like the one on the right.



#ad


#ad




As far a using the plate dimensions to determine which aftermarket version you might have - probably only Mark Chapple of TST, Piers, or Joe Donnely could tell you.



Dave
 
Daves upper left picture looks like the Banks 62408 I used to have. It goes from lean to super rich at high rpm. It was a fun street plate running empty! The bottom hump on my #11 slopes forward(towards front of truck)instead of back(like 62408)giving more aggressive fueling before hitter the high rpm, max fuel stop. Craig
 
Okay... . I've been waiting for a thread like this to show up... hehe

Now, what's with all the #5, #4. 8, #11 stuff I keep reading about? Is it like wiring and gun gauges... the smaller the number... the bigger the fueling?? I'm curious... .



Matt
 
Matt,



The numbers don't make any sense. I suspect that they were numbered in the order they were developed. My #5 is stronger than a #6 and there are larger numbers that are also stronger than a #6.
 
Plate numbers

Here's what I've figured out. :) As the plate # goes lower, the more fuel it adds. If you've got an automatic that uses the #8 as the 230/605, then the #5 is the top fueler in that line. For the 5 speeds, the #12 is the 230/605 & the #10 is the top fueler.



Ck out the #11 plate in Deezul 1's picture. As the go pedal is pushed farther, the rack travels from left to right. The rack contacts the plate on left side of the plate. At low rpm, it touches the lowest portion of the plate. As rpm goes up, the rack moves up the plate. That cut-out in the plate lets the rack move more to the right, allowing more rack travel & more fuel.



If the cut in the plate is deeper to the right, more fuel is allowed to the injectors. The rack never gets up to that straight vertical section on the top 1/2 of the plate.



On the #8 plate, that cut is deeper than the #11. It's cut into the plate almost to the vertical. If we had a picture of the #10, you'd see that it's cut deeper than the #11, but not quite to the vertical.



If you put the #8 plate in the 215hp pumps, it's good for approx 340hp, as where it's 230hp in the auto pumps. The #4. 8 plate is cut way back deep into the plate, past the vertical. I'd guess the #5 is very similar.
 
Things are starting to make sense now... . this is a good thing.

Since I have a '94 47RH... my hp is LOW stock... so I have to stick to a 4. 8, 5, or a 6..... gotcha. So the other plates just won't fit in there or they just don't run right?? :confused:



Matt - plateless and without any real power for now... .
 
They will fit... but the 10's, 11's and so on wont make the power in the 94 pump like the 5's.



Don~



The 94 auto pumps have smaller delivery valves too.



Best stock pumps are the 96-98 manual flavor. 215 HP pumps have the 181 delivery valves.
 
I have to disagree with the post that have said certain plates will only work for certain years/trannies. This is true to some extent, but there is more to it. The #5 plate will work in a 96-98 truck with either the auto or manual transmission. The problem is that a stock auto from a 96-98 180hp truck would have a tough time handling the new HP it would have from a #5 plate.



If one installed a #5 in a 96-98 manual truck with the 215 pump that would equal big clutch shredding horsepower and along with that would come EGT problems. Therefore a #5 in a truck with a 215 pump is not a feasible idea unless you are very heavily BOMBed otherwise.



Check out this chart it may help clear things up.



http://www.dieselpage.com/tstpk.htm



FWIW - Piers tried to recommend to me a #10 plate to put in my 96 automatic, so it is not that the higher numbered plates cannot be used in newer trucks.



-Ryan
 
270/675 Good numbers

Thx Don, I like those numbers. Just at the high end before absolutely having to drop in a heavier clutch. :D

Even then if the stocker were to die a horrible death, then I'd just hafta call SBC and probably save a mint over what another stocker would cost. :D
 
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