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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel plates? what to do?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Serpentine Belt Arrangement

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Shotoff solenoid current

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i want to upgrade and was told a 10 goes good with stock auto transmission and a 4 plate might be to wild. what if i took it easy with the 4 until i could get the transmission done. anyone out there tried these plates ? need to hear from u all. tnx to all:(
 
u might even have problem with the 10 plate when towing extreme or snow plowing. If u are going with that big of a plate go with GOV springs, ... your input shaft will love u for it. If it were me, i'd go with 10 plate, Gov springs and if u need more than go with PDR 370's and a pdr 35 and 16 ex housing
 
4 Plate

I have a 5 plate in my 98 12 valve 6 spd trans was a 5 spd It was the 215 engine the 5 plate put mine at 420 The 4 plate is a little hotter than the 5 the best regulater in the world is your right toe

I have a 4 plate that I will be putting in to try later I also have roller rockers on mine that is experimental they open the intake valve a little more than the stock rocker
 
I have a #5 plate, but heard that it isn't the best one to use with the GSK. Any one with similar mods go from a #5 to another one while keeping close to same power with better EGT control?
 
i had a #5, was enough for a while, then i put in a 3k gsk and went straight to the #0 plate, now that isnt enough. it just never ends. get the transmission done then you have nothing holding you back in power issues
 
My number 8 plate was adequate until the timing went to 16* and the 4k kit went in . I have a highly modified stock plate in there right now , it just didn't want to run well with the 8 . I've heard a 4 or a 10 is what should be in there. I sure would like to try some other ones and see what I get. My low end seems to have moved up the tach by about 200 rpm . But I need to find the cause and cure for a really nasty noise that has developed recently first :mad:
 
I went from a #5 to a #4 and the #4 is a lot better on the top end, I had ground about . 010 off the top end of the #5 and that helped a lot but the #4 is still a lot better. If you want to control EGT's you will need a bigger turbo an Piers HX35 with a 14cm wastegated exhaust housing will spool better for towing and low end power and still be able to keeep drive pressure low at the top end.

Bruce
 
To get the full use of the #4 plate you will need the 4,000 rpm kit and the H. D. valve springs. With the 3,000 rpm set up your truck will pull harder on the upper end but EGT's will be up slightly, with the 4,000 rpm kit the truck will continue to pull past 2,700 all the way to 3,700- 4,000 and you will think you bought a new truck. I cruise at 2,000 around town now and the truck is just loafing. I was very happy with the #4 plate and dynoed at 383HP and there was more left all I needed was more air.

Bruce
 
as in my truck sig..... intake, exhaust, 3000rpm governor spring kit, adjusted afc, #0 plate (i just ground my stock one flat, put it in the stock position, and did the arm adjustment), and 215 injectors. this should bring me to around 300hp and 715 foot pounds of torque.



transmission wise all i did was to up the line pressure 3 turns and put a converter stock/unlock switch. i'm always using the switch so i don't slip the lock up clutch... that's why the transmission has lasted so long. unfortunately i can't get any of that torque through the stock converter.



if you drive it right, it will hold the power. you just have to think about rpms (line pressure and power/torque curve) vs. trans temp vs. throttle position (line pressure).



Tom
 
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