Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) fuel press gauge installation questions

[jmtandem]

Taking just about everybody's advice on the fuel pressure issue, I decided to get the gauge and have three installation questions.



I have the little plastic insert for the gauge that fits in the cubby hole under the air bag shut off switch (2001 manual trans). Does the bezel for the instrument panel clip in and out? I can't find any screws anywhere and the Haynes manual does not readily address this issue.



Does the flex hose need to be bled of air before attaching to the sending unit?



I am assuming the flex hose from Genos that has the schrader female fitting on one end does not need the banjo fitting; it just fits on to the schrader valve. Is this correct and if so, what is the max torque for the hose to schrader valve fitting?



Thanks.

 

[JCyrbok]

I have a FP gauage mounted in the cubby hole. I made my plate out of 1/8 inch ABS. You have to pop the trim bezel off of the dash. It has clips on it. Then you have to remove the three screws that hold the actual cubby "hole" in the dash. Then use the three screws to mount the face plate and gauage back in the hole. U have to leave the cup that makes up the storage bin the cubby out for the trim bezel to fit back correctly and for the gauage to have enough room in the hole. It will make sense when u see it with out the trim bezel on. Just becareful with the trim bezel. Work it loose slowly and one clip at a time.



As for bleeding the line, I did not on mine as I felt that it would be too much of a mess and a way for more air into the injector lines. I have had no problems with my gauge in almost a year with out bleeding the gauge line. The VP will pull out any air over a couple of days and the LP will replace it with fuel. If u really wanted to minimize the air u could use a small funnel, tube or like a resturant type ketchup or mustard bottle ( clean of course) to fill the flex line from the top after its attached to the VP but before u put on the sender.



As for the torque on the Genos gauage line I dont know what it should be. Call up Geno's and they should beable to tell you how tight. I just used a grease gun hose and the tapped banjo.



Hope this helps

J-

 

[jrollins]

Yes you are correct the dash Basel does just "pop" off it is held in place with retaining clips, just pull the unit straight out. The cubby hole in the dash is held in place with a couple of screws that will be visible w/o the Basel in place. I actually use a mechanical FP gauge with no sending unit and no I didn't have to bleed mine so I am guessing no on ur electrical one. You are also correct if you are going to connect to a Schrader valve there will be no need for a banjo blot but I don't know what to tell you about what to torque the fitting to. I connected my FP gauge using a Schrader connection, I hand tightened it first the just used a pair of pliers to snug it up. I wouldn't try to tighten it to much though; the fittings are probably made of brass:--)

 

[CstlEng]

I don't know how cold it gets in carson city, but be carfull pulling the bezel off if it is below 40, the plastic gets brittle and the clips can be tight the first 10 or 12 times you pull it off.



I start at the drivers door side and pull straight into the cab slowly to get it started, then after I get my fingers behind it, pull pretty quick, still straight out from the dash.

 

[Hohn]

If you are using any NPT threads (like grease gun hose) make sure you use a thread sealer.



I just ran a NAPA adapter from the Schrader (converted Schrader to 1/8NPT female). Then I screwed grease gun hose into this, and plumbed to isolator and gauge...



Hohn