Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) fuel pressure gauge & banjo bolts

[Duane George]

getting ready to install the fp gauge. i have a isspro gauge and tapped banjo bolt and 4 other banjo bolts. i'm planning to put the tapped banjo on the post side of my fuel filter and not on the test ports. the other banjos if i understand correctly will go on the pre filter line and on the inlet side of the injection pump. the other 2 will go on the lift pump. i'm just wanting to make sure i have this right in my head. also putting in the pyro, boost and transmission gauges.

thanks for you input!

Duane

 

[D6Diesel]

On the 2001 engine, I placed the post filter tapped Banjo bolt at the injection pump where it's relatively easier to maintain.



The prefilter access point is just where the line goes into the filter.



My truck is stock, so I didn't bother with changing out non-tapped (regular) Banjo bolts. The fuel pressure guages work great and there's plenty of power.

 

[Rcpilotlv]

I installed my F. P. gauge recently and i'm having problems. I have a Autometer electric model # 2661 hooked up to the injection pump, with a 24 " extension to isolate the sender from vibrations. At first it worked great for a day, now the needle jumps all over the place. This is driving me crazy having it mounted on a steering pod. I will try a snubber to see if that helps. I have double checked all of the connections and everything seems fine. If a snubber does not help, i will relocate the sender to the bottom of the fuel canister with my 24" extension. If that does not help i will rip that gauge out and replace it with a oil temp or axle temp gauge and be done with it. I then will check fuel pressure once a month using a temporary gauge.

 

[RADdodge]

Rcpilotlv – There were a number threads about impulse pressure effecting fuel pressure sensors. You will get less erratic readings by moving your connection to the output side of the fuel filter. Probably the reason you didn’t see the effect at first is air trapped into the snubber hose. That would absorb some of the energy from the inlet of the injection pump and smooth out the fluctuations. I have my SPA sensor connected to the inlet of the VP-44 with a 2’ length of hose, but the SPA can be programmed to average the display over a period of time. Personally, I think the post filter location is probably better for smoother readings, just not as convenient to hook up. Check out some of the post in the following tread links below.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25074



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39651



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37833



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32281

 

[monkfarm]

repilotlv

I put my sender unit on the output side on top of the fuel filter housing (just remove that one bolt on top (the one towards u as youre standing there) and screw it in) Works great. no big deal

 

[jboehm]

monkfarm,

If you're talking about the test fittings on top of the filter, the one closest to the engine is "post filter"... at least it is on mine.

 

[Rcpilotlv]

Well I fixed it. I do not recommend anybody tapping into the injection pump. I put mine prefilter(backside of cannister) and I am all smiles now. My gauge is rock steady. The way a gauge should read. I did use my 24" extension hose also. By the way my pressures are 14-15 Idle, 12 at 65 and 9 through the gears WOT. This is fun now