Is it required to bleed the air from the lines on a FP install for accuracy? I know air is compressable and fluids are not so would it matter to leave air in the line? The reason I ask is this:
I bought a cheap FP gauge and hooked it up about a month ago. Had 14 idle, 11-12 cruise, 7-8 wot. Seemed good but I hated the gauge. It stuck occasionally on the way back down and was loud. So I removed it and bought a Dipricol 0-30# White (very nice gauge imo) and hooked it up yesterday. My readings are now 9-10 idle, 6-7 cruising, 2-3 wot. I did change the location of the gauge from the previous install from below dash to steering column but wouldn't think that should matter for mechanical gauges. I guess I'm just a little hesitant to believe the LP is already going out at 6800 miles and don't want to get charged by the dealer if it's not.
So should I demount the gauge and bleed the line or is that a waste of time?
Would the mounting location matter on the pressure readings? If so how much difference between below dash and steering column?
Thanks for any advice...
I bought a cheap FP gauge and hooked it up about a month ago. Had 14 idle, 11-12 cruise, 7-8 wot. Seemed good but I hated the gauge. It stuck occasionally on the way back down and was loud. So I removed it and bought a Dipricol 0-30# White (very nice gauge imo) and hooked it up yesterday. My readings are now 9-10 idle, 6-7 cruising, 2-3 wot. I did change the location of the gauge from the previous install from below dash to steering column but wouldn't think that should matter for mechanical gauges. I guess I'm just a little hesitant to believe the LP is already going out at 6800 miles and don't want to get charged by the dealer if it's not.
So should I demount the gauge and bleed the line or is that a waste of time?
Would the mounting location matter on the pressure readings? If so how much difference between below dash and steering column?
Thanks for any advice...