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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Pressure Gauge install problems.

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I just finished putting in a westach fuel gauge but the needle does not move. I have the wires hooked up and the truck is running fine so it's unlikely that I have no fuel pressure right. What's strange is is it did go to 1psi just for a second and went back to 0 and never moved again. I have to go out of town for a week and leave my truck for my wife to go to work with. I hope it doesn't give up the ghost. When the lift pumps quit, do they just do it in and die to 0psi?
 
If you mounted your sender on the end of a hose, you can pull the sender off and put the end of the hose into a bottle. Turn the key on (you may need to bump the starter) and see if it pushes any fuel into the bottle. If it does, you know at least that your lift pump is working and you can troubleshoot your gauge.



If it is the gauge, I'm with WyoJim... . check those ground wires. Bad grounds can wreck havoc with gauges.



JM
 
If you are using electric gauges that have a sending unit , plus you are using a hose or grease gun hose attached directly to the sender, don't forget to GROUND the sending unit. Strip a piece of wire and attach a hose clamp around the striped part of the wire with the other end of the wire grounded with a lug to the body.
 
exact same problem

Deju Vu. I have exactly the same problem. I've had the Westach Fuel Pressure, IssPro Boost and EGT gauges installed for a few weeks. The EGT and Boost gauges work fine and they all light up. Completion of the Fuel pressure gauge install had to wait on some fittings to hook up the sender.



I had the same symptoms where the FP gauge showed about 1lb when I turned on the lights and it's been flat since. I have it wired according to the instructions, such as they are. But I don't have the body of the sending unit grounded according to emarsh's suggestion, so I'll try that next.



At least I know the lift pump is working after priming the sender line.



Thanks for the tip.



Neil
 
all checked - still no go

I agree that poor grounding is the #1 electrical problem, so I checked.

First I grounded the sending unit body. Using a test light, I confirmed that the unit it grounded, the ground terminal is good and the gauge ground is good.



Next I checked wire continuity since the gauge harness has to be extended into the engine bay. Using an Ohm meter, I confirmed continuity from the gauge all the way to the sending unit.



I don't know what else to do so I suspect a faulty sending unit. Unfortunately, I bought the gauge from Piers who sourced it from Geno's who distributes from Westach. So I'm going to contact Westach directly and see if they've had any complaints about a recent batch. I'm willing to try a new sender, but after that it would be a real in the assk to replace the gauge since it's all sewn up in the A-pillar.



DSiemans - let me know how you fare with this.



Neil
 
Jeeze :( and here *I* sit waiting for MY A pillar pod and guages to arrive from Geno's - mine is the 30 lb. job - what was the one you guys are having problems with?:eek: :eek:
 
I bought a 30lber westech setup from geno's , used the grease gun hose... everything is working fine.



DSiemens , if you have the 30lber setup, I can take a voltage measurement across the terminals of my sender and tell you what they are... I'm at 14. 5lbs or soo at idle...



you could have a bad sender... bad gauge.



If you used teflon tape in the install... . that's a big no-no. . the diesel will eat it up. . or if you got a piece on end of the hose. . it could of gotten in the sender or in the hole of the hose fitting.





The ground needs to be from the terminal of the sender to a good ground... what the instructions are really trying to tell you is not to used the return wire that goes to the gauge as the ground for the sender. . or the current drawn by the resistor in the sender will cause a drop along that return wire to the gauge and screw up readings.
 
talked to Westach

I called Westach (Westberg Mfg. ). Vern answered the phone and was technically savy. I explained my condition and troubleshooting to date and asked for his troubleshooting advise.



He gave me the following specs to check on the sender. I believe this is done with no wires on the sender, but I'll confirm that with the instructions.

Ohm reading at sender:

0-psi 230ohm

5-psi 145ohm

10psi 93ohm

15psi 59ohm



These of course are the normal values, so if its out of calibration, you'll get something else, if it's broke, you'll get something at one end or other of the scale.



He was cooperative in saying that if my tests indicate a faulty sender, they would ship me a new one then I could return the old one. That's a good plan!
 
My Westach sender had bolts where you attach the ground and power wire. It does not matter which one you use for ground or power.



I would make sure the ground for the sender and the gauge is the same place so there is no voltage differential.



Charles
 
Originally posted by fj40charles

My Westach sender had bolts where you attach the ground and power wire. It does not matter which one you use for ground or power.



I would make sure the ground for the sender and the gauge is the same place so there is no voltage differential.



Charles



The only true ground that the gauge has is for the light.

The other "ground" on the gauge you speak of is the minus or - "sense lead". It is ment to go directly to which ever stud on the sender you grounded. It's like the negative lead of a Volt meter. It's not ment to carry currents. If currents of the resistor (sender) are carried by the ground lead (sense lead) of the gauge or meter it will screw up the readings.
 
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