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Fuel pressure gauge install

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Installing Delivery Valves

Turbo or waste gate?

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I just got my fuel pressure gauge from Briar Hopper and installed it. Is this the right place to install it??



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I'm only getting 7 psi at idle and it gets down to 2 psi at WOT. I tried removing the valve core on the adapter and I get the same results.



Shouldn't my truck be acting like a dog with these readings? I know I just bought the truck and I'm not used to it, but I thought it moved pretty good once the turbo kicked in.
 
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It looks like it's hooked up correctly, Marc. Sorry I didn't email you back fast enough, I was working a night shift last night, and slept today, didn't see your email until 5:00 p. m.

The lift pump is a supply pump for the VP44 injection pump, low pressure doesn't always mean you're going to notice a drop in performance. At those levels it's barely noticeable. With the complete loss of the pump, zero pressure, the performance drop IS usually noticeable, but more so if you're towing a load.

The new Dodge specs say that if it drops below 8psi at WOT, you need a new pump.

They are available directly from Cummins (there's one in Cincinnati) for about $150. The Dodge dealers want over $400 for the same thing. It's easy to change one out, in 20 minutes or less. Go grab one, come on down to my shop Wednesday or Thursday, I'll show you how to do it.
 
You could go to Napa and get a Carter 4601HP... same manufacturer as the stock pump, mounts the same, powered by two stud connections on the bottom of the pump, BUT rated at 18psi at 100GPH and only costs about $120. It also comes with a warranty.



FWIW,

Mark
 
Wow. . It's true then. . Glad I bought the gauge as my first upgrade to this thing.



I'm going to try the stealer first. I'm at 96,500 miles.



I've got a trip planned this weekend. Am I going to hurt anything if I tow my Bronco 200 miles and back?
 
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I understand the term I am my own warranty station but if the lift pump reads 2-3 psi at wot than should dodge use the addition of a tst upgrade kit as a reason for pump failure?:confused:
 
No, Bill, under the Magnuson-Moss Act, they can't legally do that, but they can and do, simply because they know the average citizen doesn't have the time and money to challenge them in the courts.

What brought that up? If you read Marc's signature line, you'll see his truck is stock. The lift pumps and injection pumps can and do fail on their own, unmolested by performance add-ons. We've seen multiple cases of such on the TDR.

The fuel enhancement boxes, to the best of my knowledge and opinion, do not directly cause the failure of the lift or injection pumps on our 24 valve Cummins Rams. They may however, accelerate the demise of an already marginal quality pump (either lift, or injection), as quite a few have been manufactured with defects.

Denying the warranty at the drop of a hat is simply another way for the dealer to make/save money. The $1500-2500 they charge you for that extended warranty :mad: that only cost them $250 to purchase, is yet another way.

Live with it, like we have to live with the other travesties of justice in this country, like the EPA and ATF and FAA ... ... or get enough people, money, and power together to do something about it.
 
I'm getting email from members asking why I can't just provide for installing a gauge semi-permanently on top of the filter housing on the 98. 5 - 99 models. (2000 & up have different filter housings, can't do it)

Simple. The over-riding, all consuming reason for not doing it that way is because most of us have seen 13-14 psi at idle even with a dead lift pump. You have to be able to observe fuel pressure at part-throttle, and wide-open-throttle, what we refer to in the TDR forums as WOT... .

That's why the long hose supplied with my gauges. You can tape it to the windshield, shut the hood, and take a run.

Of course, the pumps do go out without warning, those of us with full-time in-cab gauges have seen them go out, come back, then go out again for good... .

I have a kit I sell for connecting a full-time in-cab gauge. So does Advanced Diesel Technology, and a few others.
 
install

Mr. Hopper...



i looked on your website and ADT's site and i can't find the products or installation for the the in cab fuel pressure gauge... . could you help me out... i am interested in getting one of these since i am on my second one as we speak



thanks

jason
 
The "kit" for connecting a full-time fuel pressure gauge is simply a length of fuel hose, two brass fittings for the hose ends, a coupling for the sending unit, and an adapter for connecting the other hose end to the fuel system. The idea is to get the sending unit mounted remotely away from the engine vibration. Everything else you need comes with the AutoMeter or DiPricol fuel pressure gauge, or any brand of gauge you happen to choose. I provide the kit as an extra option for customers who purchase a fuel pressure gauge from me.

SKY : "How simple is that to hook up? " :) Depends on which one you're talking about... . are you asking about the "kit", or the "Briar Hopper Fuel Pressure test gauge" ?

The temporary test gauge is pretty easy to use. The installation of a full-time gauge, though, is a little more complicated. If you've installed your own boost and EGT gauges, it's easy enough. If you can't or haven't installed those gauges on your own, you might find the fuel pressure gauge install to be somewhat difficult.
 
Gettin' Fixed

Just called the stealer. . They're replacing it under warranty (at 97,100 miles). Should be done tomorrow morning, just in time to tow the Bronco to the trail ride this weekend.





I was just talking to a guy at work about this and he had some Q's. . Is it an electric pump? What kind of pump is it (how is it driven)? Is there any kind of filter between the tank and the pump? Could that help?
 
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