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Fuel pressure gauge install

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Steve St.Laurent

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A lot of guys have been asking about my fuel pressure gauge installation lately so I thought I'd bring it back up top and do some updating of the information depending on model of truck,etc. When I installed mine (June of this year) I wanted to be able monitor my lift pump pressures and also be able to monitor the status of my fuel filter. After looking around I decided to go with a Stewart Warner gauge with dual senders.



I bought the gauge and sender's through XK's Unlimited - http://www.xks.com/ - a jaguar place!! They had the best prices I could find. I bought the track force gauge because it matched the closest to my DiPricol boost and pyro - the page they are on is here http://www.xks.com/SW%20Pages/swgaug11.html . The gauge I bought is the SW-82868-P which is a 2 1/16" 0-16 psi electric gauge with a black bezel. The sender's were the 82504-F . They also have many other options on there for other style gauges.



To mount the sender's I made a small custom bracket out of aluminum that's sandwiched between two existing brackets under the hood (see first picture). I put slots in the bracket and ran hose clamps through them to attach the sender's - they have to be ground. I originally had the sender's plumbed into my prime loc (pic 2) but have now moved them to the test ports in the top of the fuel filter head (pic 3). You just use 1/8" npt to barb fitting adapters to attach the lines. That applies to '98. 5 & '99 24v trucks, for the '00+ guys you have a schraeder valve on one of the banjo bolts at the fuel filter head and another at the banjo bolt at the injection pump. By my understanding you'll need to use a 4an fitting to attach to it and will need to removed the valve core out of the fitting first.



Then all you have to do is run 2 18 gauge wire's into the cab and run them to a switch and then to the gauge. I put my switch in a small project box and attached it to the dash and then attached the gauge to it with one of Geno's donut mounts (last pictures). The gauge also needs 12v and has a light which I just fed to my other gauges.



Total cost for my setup was around $80 for the gauge and senders, $5 for the aluminum to make the bracket, $10 for the gauge mount, and about $3 for the fuel line, hose barbs, hose clamps, wire. I have replaced two lift pumps on my truck, the last one after only 6,000 miles on it! WIth a brand new lift pump I see 13-14 psi at idle, 12-13 psi driving down the road and a low of 10 psi under extended WOT just for comparison's sake. I personally recommend that anyone with an ISB install a fuel pressure gauge if for nothing else other than peace of mind!



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR

'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)





[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 12-07-2000). ]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thank you Steve. This will be my next accessory!

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins (ETH), 6-Speed (DEE), SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper.
 
Great setup Steve. Just a reminder to 12 valvers,a 16 psi gauge isn't big enough as the fuel pressures can go up to 25 psi. The rest of the setup is the same,just need to use a 30 psi or larger gauge. I'm using a 40#,it works great.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,Driftwood,Banks&Phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)
 
Thanks Steve, ordered the same gauge and senders last night.


99 2500 auto QC 4X4

[This message has been edited by GTX (edited 12-09-2000). ]
 
Thanks Steve,
Your post was very helpful. I ordered my guage too,but it is on back order. Boy I hate to wait #ad
. Thanks again.

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2001. 5 2500 Q\C,lwb, white/w gray int. ,HO,6-spd. ,3. 54,trailer tow, camper special,custom bolt-in G/N,Pryo/Boost, See'ya down the road Michael
 
I mounted my sending units directly on top of the filter housing. I had to use two 45 degree fittings to get clearance. The only problem I can see is vibration. Anybody think this is significant? Tom
P. S. I have less than 1 lb difference pre / post filter.
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Tom W in Austin Tx 98 24v 2500 Quadcab, auto, 3. 54, lsd, Rhino, white/driftwood, Banks Stinger Plus, Manix grill, nerf bars , DTT's TC, valvebody, cooler, Mag-hytec trans & diff, Pac brake.

[This message has been edited by Tom W (edited 12-10-2000). ]
 
Steve has you discussed the 00-01 4n fittiongs needed right now i am using 4n male ro 4n female with 1/8 test port... ...
just got treeman his upgraded fuel lines, and he has a 6n adaptor with a port, more r&d needed to get the exact part numebers and to see if it works well with my spa's

B... ... ... ... ... .
 
Fuzz,

Did you mount the senders directly on the test ports? If so, was there enough room? If not, how and where did you run the lines and where did you mount the senders. Thanks for the response.
 
Originally posted by Shleets:
Fuzz,

Did you mount the senders directly on the test ports? B]


Shleets,
Yup,the one prefilter was a little difficult to get my hand back there and screw it on but
it appears to be clear of everything. The one on the low side of Injector pump was easy.

I was a little concerned about adding the weight of the sensors to the Schrader valves,but it really isn't much weight,so I did it. I originally was going to get a -4an-hose barb fitting for both senders and run them somewhere with a hose ala ,Steve,but seemed easier to just mount them on the test ports. FWIW
 
Stupid question... . I have the 2001 shop manual and the attachment to the "test pressure" banjo fittings looks pretty straight-forward. However, what fitting's do you actually use? I see 4n and such but am not familiar with that terminology. From Steve's pictures it seems that somehow that banjo fitting gets unscrewed and provides the fuel to the line where it is picked up by the sending device. Am I assuming this is correct? Looks like a sweet setup reading both the pre and post pressure but being mechanically challenged I need a little more detail. Thanks



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Mark Schlueter
2001, QC, 4x4, ETC, K&N, White sport package. Kodiak Sidewinder Steps. Mag Hytec rear dif cover. Wet Okole seat covers. VDO Vision Gauges, A pillar mount from Geno's and Mag Hytec Trans pan are on order.
 
Originally posted by Shleets:
However, what fitting's do you actually use? I see 4n and such but am not familiar with that terminology

Shleets:
After reading Steve's posts. . I ordered gauge and senders from the same place.
On my y2k-3500. . There are two test ports,look like large "schrader valves".
I purchased (from a local speed shop) 2 -4AN-1/8pipe fittings. Took the valve core out of the Schrader test ports and screwed on the
senders. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks Fuzz,

I have Westach looking into making a dual gauge for lift and injector pressures. Rather than use a button to switch between the two I prefer to have both displayed at the same time. I will mount it in the cubby hole next to the radio and somehow do a special mount that will angle th gauge slightly towards the driver. I am still curious about the fittings but I guess they will make sense when the senders arrive. Thanks for your help.
 
Originally posted by illflem:
Great setup Steve. Just a reminder to 12 valvers,a 16 psi gauge isn't big enough as the fuel pressures can go up to 25 psi. The rest of the setup is the same,just need to use a 30 psi or larger gauge. I'm using a 40#,it works great.


Semms like $100 well spent. I assume it's worth doing in a 12v?

WHat kind of reading are normal?

Thanks,
Tackett
 
My 12 valvers read 22 psi most of the time. Seen it go as low as 18 on a loaded uphill pull,high as 30 on a high rpm no throttle downhill coast. I believe you only need a reading from the filter outlet,once you know the pressures you run with a clean filter it's an easy matter to see when it drops due to a clogged filter. Best place to install the sender on a 12er is to tap 1/8 NPT hole in the injector pump inlet hose banjo bolt. It's very strong,has plenty of room and is easier to get at than the filter.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
Steve,

What kind/size of tubing did you use between the filter cover and your senders? I haven't done much of this kind of work, so I'm not sure what to grab from the hardware store.

I ordered those gauges, though. Should be here before the week is out. #ad




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Kees C.
99, 4x4, 2500, 5spd, HD, LSD, SB, QC, Sport, Forest-Green, Cab-Lights
Rhinoliner, toolbox, dual Firestiks
 
1/8" ID, and it was fuel hose that was rated for diesel - not sure of the part number on the hose though, I just bought it at the local auto parts store.

-Steve
 
The installation looks great Steve. I have just ordered a fuel pressure gauge from Westach and now I wonder if I should get another sender and duplicate your system. Can you really monitor the fuel filter and tell when it needs to be changed.

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99 2500,etc,ddx,qc,slt,ez K&N,gauges,lsd,3. 54rear,flowmaster, tow a 13k 5er.
 
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