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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel pressure gauge poll

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How did you implement your fuel pressure gauge installation?

  • Mechanical gauge with isolator

    Votes: 31 26.5%
  • Mechanical gauge with no isolator

    Votes: 19 16.2%
  • Electric gauge

    Votes: 67 57.3%

  • Total voters
    117

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1994 Ram 2500 engine problem

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If you have installed a fuel pressure gauge, did you install a mechanical or electric gauge?

If mechanical, did you use an isolator, or do you plumb the fuel clear through to the gauge, using no isolator?
 
Mechanical, no isolator. I did put in a needle valve to reduce fluxuation and sleeved the guage line from the firewall to the gauge with a larger plastic clear tubing. Any leaks and it runs outside.
 
Mechanical w/ isolator. I called Geno's, told them what I wanted to do, and they sent me everything I needed including instructions and suggested installation. I'd suggest the isolator, you don't want diesel leaking in the cab.
 
started with a mechanical with isolator and needle valve, when the isolator took a dump i eliminated it, tried a damper before i went needle valve and it took maybe 10 minutes for the pressure to get up to running with the loosest element installed so i binned it and got a needle valve
 
I finally got around to hooking my autometer Z-series full sweep electric guage today. Smooth install on both the sending unit end and the electrical end. I am still debating on the choice of a snubber over a needle valve. The snubber seems slow to react and may be doing too good a job "snubbering" and thereby reducing the gauge's usefulness. I'll give it a week or so. If things are still the same I'll install a needle valve a ditch the snubber.

The gauge takes a minute or two to get a reading, but then just holds steady at 30 psi and doesn't bounce or fluctuate at all, no matter idle, under load, steady state cruising? Not sure if that good or if the snubber is dulling the responsiveness of the gauge.
 
I started with a direct mechanical autometer but switched to an electric with a snubber. As mechanical has limited mounting possibilitioes
 
I plumbed in a kit from Geno's. They call it a "Test Kit". Though I supposed you need to be careful around cold temperatures so it doesn't freeze. We've been down in the single digits here and I've had no problems so far.

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I installed the electric gauge form Geno's Garage. It indicated zero pressure from the lift pump. I purchased the 2001 Ram 3500 used, so who knows how long it had been bad. I than installed the FASS DDRP pump, excellent preasure now but it was too late for the VP44. The VP44 did last one year before it died in Houghton, MI about 3 mile from the local Dodge dealer in Hancock, MI. Northern Auto did a excellent job installing the repacement pump.
 
I have mechanicals under the hood, and electric in the cab.
Not too happy with the differential in the cab. That's why I have the mechanicals to verify.
I'd have preferred two mechanicals in the cab (I have pre and post filter) but it's not practical IMO.
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electric westec gauge kit from Blueridge Diesel. Easy install with all the parts needed except some wire. I needed 8 feet. Instructions were easy to follow. I strongly recommond this kit if you want to track your fuel pressure.
 
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