Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) fuel pressure gauge question

[motohead84]

I want to install a fuel pressure gauge in my truck. What sweep should I get, 0-15 -or- 0-100? I am going with the phantom series from autometer, and then hook up to the schrader valve with the hose from Geno's.



how much fuel pressure should I expect?



I plan on installing the FASS soon. Will that change my fuel pressure??



thanks for all your help!



Andrew

 

[SRadke]

I would expect 10-20 in stock for depending on the health of your lift pump. The FASS pressure is adjustable but usually runs 12-18. My DiPricol gauges is 0-30, is that not an option from autometer?



-Scott

 

[Tcolesanti]

Getting 10-15psi from a stock lift pump is normal at idle, 6-10psi WOT. (if its less your lift pump is on the way out. ) I have the Autometer 0-15psi gauge on mine with a FASS setup. With the FASS it buries the needle at 15. 5psi and I can't get it below 14psi WOT. I would'nt recommend the 0-100psi gauge because its not accurate below 20 psi(its not incremented in 1psi marks below 20psi). Autometer has not put out a 0-30psi fuel pressure gauge yet.

 

[gottorq33]

how off is the autometer 0-100 because that is what I have and my vp44 is on way out got the 0216 code gauge is between inlet to vp44 and outlet of liftpump OI get 20 at idle 15 cruise and 8 WOT could gauge be POS should I buy another before I burn pump up again

 

[Leroy D]

fuel pressure gauge

I reccomend going back to GENO'S GARAGE and checking out the 0 to 30# pressure gauge kit. I have it and it works great.

 

[DLeonhard]

Hey guys - just a few questions. I have the DiProcol gauge with an isolator. Where would you mount the isolator? Does it matter if the hose from the fuel source to the isolator is 2' or 3' long? Also, is there a preference in where to tap into the fuel source (stock filter or injection pump)? Thanks for your help!

 

[SpicyJam]

If you look at my gallery I have the Dakota Digital one with the 0-75. The isolator sits in one of Genos tapped banjo bolt at the injector pump. To each his own gauge but I would not run one that went to a 100. If you are going to FASS system I would look for one that reads at least 25psi.



The gauge I have is real easy to hook up and not that expensive. Just over 100 bucks. Just one wire from the isolator, one wire to a switched hot wire and one for night dimming. Very easy and simple. They have 3 different types of isolators, 0-30, 0-75, and 0-100. Just my 2 cents.

 

[BTowler]

spicyjam, you need to relocate your isolator or the engine vibration will cause it to go out. Mount the isolator on the firewall near where the line goes through the firewall to the gauge.

 

[SpicyJam]

Ya know it has to be in a banjo fitting, it is very small and unless I want to create more lines it is not worth moving. So far 20000 miles and not a prob, besides it is 20 bucks for a new one. I know of the pulse from the pump, but like I said so far so good, thanks though for looking out, I did think of putting it before the filter but felt safer by the pump.



I only have a wire coming off the very small isolator, no fuel line at all.

 

[isb360]

I tried the Autometer gauge from Geno's and was told by Autometer "tech" support (who couldn't even supply me with a voltage vs. pressure curve to check the input signal) that the start-up fuel spike on the VP-equipped trucks would blow out the sending unit. Geno's was great and sent me another gauge no questions asked, but I didn't think it was wise to chance blowing another sending unit, so I switched.



I am now using an Isspro 30psi mechanical gauge. There is a needle valve control that mounts to the fuel filter before the fuel pressure line to minimize spikes and it works very well. It is a bear to get the steel-braided line into the cab and up to the A-pillar, but once installed, it works great.



Tim

 

[BTowler]

Originally posted by SpicyJam

Ya know it has to be in a banjo fitting, it is very small and unless I want to create more lines it is not worth moving. So far 20000 miles and not a prob, besides it is 20 bucks for a new one. I know of the pulse from the pump, but like I said so far so good, thanks though for looking out, I did think of putting it before the filter but felt safer by the pump.



I only have a wire coming off the very small isolator, no fuel line at all.

Yeah, $20 bucks for a sending unit isn't bad. Mechanical isolators are $60 and up, I think autometers is over $100. I was thinking mechanical when I said line, wasn't awake yet.