Fuel pressure gauge sender install location..

[jweir]

I am going to install a fuel pressure gauge as soon as it gets here and was wondering about locations to tap for the sender unit. I see that a lot of you are using the banjo bolt on the bottom of the filter, but what about using the banjo on the injection pump, just remove the Schrader valve (I think that's what that is... ) and put a tapped banjo bolt there, and use a grease gun hose to dampen the pulses? It seems easier to get to this location.



Those of you that chose to use the bottom of the filter housing, did you lose all of the fuel in the filter housing?.



And if we are only talking about 15 to 20# max on these, why not use hose barb fittings and rubber diesel fuel hose?



As usual, comments welcome!



Jim

 

[RJOL]

Originally posted by jweir

I see that a lot of you are using the banjo bolt on the bottom of the filter, but what about using the banjo on the injection pump, just remove the Schrader valve (I think that's what that is... ) and put a tapped banjo bolt there, and use a grease gun hose to dampen the pulses?

Jim... That's where I put mine, and the only disadvantage I can see is that the dealer might want to use the Schrader valve for connecting test equipment. I don't think there is any reason that you couldn't just "T" into the line, as the pressure there would be no more then off the schrader valve location... . Have Fun!!

 

[Thomas]

I'm running two tapped banjo bolts on my model year 2000—at the fuel filter. Both of the banjo bolts have 1/8 npt to 3/16 hose barb fittings. I'm using 3/16 hose to connect to two Westach senders located between the PDC and four-wheel anti-lock brake controller. These senders are attached to a custom-made Westach dual fuel pressure gauge.



#ad




I don't know if using the banjo bolt at the fuel filter outlet offers any greater protection to my post-filter sender. The length of the 3/16 hose should provide sufficient dampening.

 

[jweir]

Thanks for the replies!

Rick,

and the only disadvantage I can see is that the dealer might want to use the Schrader valve for connecting test equipment.

This was a concern of mine also, didn't know if anyone had recieved any "flak" from the dealer for doing this.



Thomas,



Great pic!

Thanks for your input, sounds like you were thinking along the same lines as I was.



Jim

 

[CRuD]

Mine is at the injection pump

I ordered the fitting from Geno's and put it at the inlet on the injection pump. My truck has the following pressures. Idle 13, 2000 rpm 10 psi and at WOT roughly 7/8 psi.

I will be ordering replacment Fuel fittings from them so I can replace all of the other fuel fittings. The holes that the fuel goes through is much bigger, I am not a mech. engineer, but the school of hard knocks has taught me that if a hose has less restriction (bigger dia. ) it will flow more liquid at the same pressure than a smaller hose.

Make sure that if loosen or take off your fuel fitting/s that you have new "compression washers" to put on the fuel fitting. You may get lucky and it don't leak fuel, but more than likely it will allow air into your fuel system and your truck will be harder to start. The washers may look like new but they are a one time use item, once you loosen them replace them.



Back to the question on hand.

I put my fuel gauge on the pump so I could tell how much fuel she was being fed. My thought process is that I know what my normal pressures are so if I see a drop in them I will do the following.

1 Change the fuel filter.

2 If that don't get my PSIs back I will take it to the dealer for a new lift pump.

I change my fuel filter every other oil filter change. I know it maybe an overkill but so what, it's cheap insurance.

This works for me.

Hope it helps.

See Ya

Chris

 

[KGMau]

Snubber

I'm waiting for my fuel gauge to arrive also, but do a search on "fuel gauge snub Illflem Grainger" (or something like that). You should find a thread discussing the use of a snubber when mounting the sending unit close to the fuel pump. The discussion stated that the snubber acts to prevent surges in pressure from damaging the gauge or the sending unit (something that is a concern the closer you mount the sending unit to the fuel pump). The benefit of mounting the sending unit after the fuel filter seems to be that you can more easily determine when the filter s/b replaced).



A snubber only costs between $3 to $5.



A Gauge that "swings" while in operation, I gather from the discussion, tends to damage both the gauge and the sending unit over time. The snubber will smooth this out. A needle valve apparently can be used, too.



You know that you've found the correct discussion thread if it contains a message in which Illflem recommends a 1/4 needle valve from Grainger.







P. S.



Since that time, Illflem updated and said that a 1/8" needle valve is now available and will fit the Geno's banjo bolts--at least the one's for a 2001--and FP gauge w/o adapters.



Via PM:



"At one time I was recomending a 1/4 needle valve because that was all Grainger offered, they now have a 1/8" one that will work easier. p/n#6MN31 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pr...emId=1612835462



Bill"

 

[JPittman]

Thomas,



Now I know where I'm mounting my Westach sender. What kind of aluminum stock is that, it looks solid? How is the bracket that holds your senders mounted so it doesn't move? The only place I saw was down on the fender and trying to figure out how to do it. Thanks for the help.

 

[Thomas]

It is 5/8" thick aluminum X wide enough to thread from both edges X long enough to fit two senders.



The bracket is a piece of aluminum sheet with a 90° bend at the bottom to allow attaching on an existing stud, and another 90° bend on the outboard edge that is placed behind a PDC attach point.



The aluminum block is attached to the sheet metal with two 10-32 machine screws.



The senders are grounded through their threaded bases and the block/bracket combination is grounded to existing sheet metal.

 

[cscott]

I'm new at this why 2 fuel pressure gauges?

 

[Thomas]

A sender pre-filter & a sender post-filter shows the pressure drop across the filter, an indication of filter condition. Some do this with two senders, one gauge, and a switch. I chose to go with two senders, a dual gauge, and no switch.

 

[JPittman]

Use two gauges so that you can see both pre and post filter psi. Usually should not be more than about 5psi drop on the post filter side. If there is, it's a good indicator that the fuel filter should be changed. If that's not it, check the lift pump. To me, the problem with post filter is that if there is a big drop, then there are two variables (filter or lift pump). The pre filter gauge would show lift pump pressure and the post filter would show if the filter is dirty and also the pressure going to the injector pump.

 

[redneckdr]

FP

an alternate way to have both pre and post filter pressures, would be to put in tapped banjos both pre and post filter, run a hose from each to a tank switching valve, and the outlet to the sender. put a switch in the cab, and switch from one port to the other for pre and post filter readings. that way you could have both with one gauge... ... .

i've been gonna do that with my mechanical isspro ev, but haven't gotten around to it yet. i put in the banjo, then plugged the prefilter banjo, for now.