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Fuel pressure gauge

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Results of first full tank after TSB 18-037-04

code p 0477

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Hi I would like to know what is involved in hooking up a fuel pressure gauge in a 04 Ram. ie where does the gauge hook up?

Thanks
 
I believe I read it here that the piece Gino's sells measures fuel preasure pre -filter. If I'm not mistaken, that won't be of any help in trying to determine if it's time to change the fuel filter. In the event this is so, where/how would we measure fuel preasure post filter in trying to determine filter change?
 
AFrisina said:
I believe I read it here that the piece Gino's sells measures fuel preasure pre -filter. If I'm not mistaken, that won't be of any help in trying to determine if it's time to change the fuel filter. In the event this is so, where/how would we measure fuel preasure post filter in trying to determine filter change?



To make that determination via gauges, you'd need two senders: one pre-filter and one post-filter, along with a means of switching between the two to read each (or a separate gauge for each).



I just installed the Geno's piece--it's very high quality, very heavy, billet steel.



Seems easier to just change the fuel filter every other oil change, and use the gauge to monitor the lift pump performance. My $. 02.



Scott
 
I have the same cover with gauge in a-pillar. Will do this again on next truck. Would be nice to know when filter is getting clogged. I just changed mine for the first time @ 10k. Very quick and simple job. Changed and added new billet cover @ same time.
 
To see pressure post filter replace the banjo bolt on the bottom of the filter canister with the threaded one that Geno's sells. It has a built in female 1/8 npt thread for connecting to a gauge. This is the banjo bolt that secures the fuel pipe that feeds the CP-3. You should use two new copper washers as well.
 
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Briman has a good idea, I didn't do that with mine. Instead, I followed that line to the CP-3 and put the banjo on there. I used an isolator with antifreeze in it, none in the line, and it has worked fine for about a year, now.
 
Thanks for the assistance guys, I'll think I will go the Geno's billet fuel filter canister cap route. Its sounds the easiest way out, and the pressure I am really after is the lift pump anyway. I also change my fuel filter every oil change, seems like cheap insurance and it's a breeze to do.

Thanks again
 
Been thinkiing about adding a fulel pres. guage lately. Had to diagnose 2 bad lift pumps w/o one. One was on my old '01 and the other just recently on dad's 02. A guage is SOOO worth the time/money.



I do have one question though. What is an isolator? Is that something that will keep me from running a fuel line into the cab? That's what has been keeping me from adding a guage. I can't imagine trying to get diesel smell out of a cab from a broken line. :eek:
 
AFrisina said:
I believe I read it here that the piece Gino's sells measures fuel preasure pre -filter. If I'm not mistaken, that won't be of any help in trying to determine if it's time to change the fuel filter. In the event this is so, where/how would we measure fuel preasure post filter in trying to determine filter change?



Isn't the port in the center of the cap? Wouldn't that reading be post filter then? If the filter's dirty on the OUTSIDE, the INSIDE placement should be a post reading. Or am I thinkin' wrong here? Wouldn't be the first time.
 
Briman,

Thanks for the banjo bolt idea. If we knew fuel preasure before the filter, (which would be easy to determine) wouldn't it be wise to know it after the filter in determining when it's dirty. I know changing it's not a big deal, however if you should pick up a crappy load of fuel, perhaps changing the filter at an other then specified interval would be necessary. Also post filter would also indicate a poor performing lift pump, wouldn't it? Especially after swaping out a suspect filter.
 
Personnally, I can't understand why anyone would want to have a hose on the filter cap to mess with every time you change the filter. Go with the banjo bolt, and be done with it. As for pre compared to post filter, if it is post filter, just watch when the pressure drops at WOT, and change as required. I have gone this route, and it works great. I change mine when the pressure drops to near zero at WOT. I can't tell any drop in performance till it drops to zero. An issolator in its basic form is just to keep fuel out of the cab in case of a leak. No big deal unless the line in the cab comes loose or leaks, then you'll be glad you have it. PS: There are two banjos on the HP pump, the banjo goes on the one towards the front.
 
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Lots of good ino. I agree with LEPage regarding the hose on the fuel filter cap. It would be a bother to me while changing the filter. Regarding banjo bolt location: CP-3 Vs. bottom of fuel filter canister. I plan on using the bottom of the canister simply to keep extra lines towards the back of the engine bay. Another reason is to keep the Westach electrical sender off the CP-3. Geno's says that the Westach sender is not fond of harmonics created by both the CP-3, or even worse, the VP-44. The Westach sender should be mounted verticaly, so I've got a 50/50 chance that it will screw directly into the banjo bolt, depending on whether the sender fitting is on the top or bottom. I'll let you all know when I get the sender sometime nextweek. It could be a piece of cake, or worst case I'll be mounting it somewhere else (firewall?) with a short feeder hose.
 
I forgot to mention, my gauge of choice was a DiPricol mechanical FP gauge. Genos triple "A" pillar mount molded in color is great, although I had a hard time making myself take a waffer wheel to the factory grab handle!
 
LEPage said:
I forgot to mention, my gauge of choice was a DiPricol mechanical FP gauge. Genos triple "A" pillar mount molded in color is great, although I had a hard time making myself take a waffer wheel to the factory grab handle!



LEPAge,

Any chance in a more detailed procedure in the install via the Banjo fitting ?

I think that maybe the way to go, as I never thought about the Filter Cap sender requiring it to be unhooked every time you need to change the fuel filter.

Thanks
 
The required hardware is as follows: 1 tapped banjo bolt, 1 LAHF-FL18 18" fuel line, 1 DiPricol DI-030FPG-W2 fuel pressure gauge. All are from Geno's. The banjo goes in the front most fuel line on the pump(there are two), I mounted the isolator on the sheet metal flange by the master cylinder. Braided line between the two, plastic tubing from top of isolator to gauge in cab. Fill top of isolator w/ antifreeze before connecting tubing. I tried to get as much in the tubing as I could also, it seemed to work better. The instructions from Geno's are very good. Only thing I don't like is a noise transmitted through the braided line to the cab, but staight exhaust will take care of that. Good Luck.
 
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The isolator is a device to keep diesel out of the cab. You get diesel to the isolator, then like LePage said, fill the isolator with antifreeze, but I didn't do the line from there to the gauge, per the folks I bought the gauge from, Diesel Performance Parts. They said it wasn't necessary, so I didn't. I did the banjo off the CR injector pump, and have the Dipricol mech gauge. I have no noise, or bouncing of the needle. Have had it on there almost a year now, with no problems. And yeah, the hardest thing was to cut that handle off. Most people think my gauges came from the factory with the truck. Pics are in my readers rigs. Let me know if you want pics of the isolator and the fitting on the pump, where I pull the pressure from.
 
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