fuel pressure gauge

[xpetecx]

Ive got a couple of questions on this. One were do you hook in to the line? Use a extended banjo bolt or is there a spot on the lift pump or fiilter already there to thread into?

What should I got with mechanical or electrical? Mecanical is cheaper but electrial is way safer.

What exactly is an isolator. alot of gauges say they come with one. does it still use mechanical pressure to run the gauge but not the fuel its self?thanks for any help.

 

[Greenleaf]

Bill will be along to explain things. He has patent on "Fuel Pressure Gauges 101"



ROFLOL



GL

 

[bgilbert]

Bill will be along to explain things. He has patent on "Fuel Pressure Gauges 101"



ROFLOL



GL

Hey now :-laf !



I'd suggest an electrical gauge all the way, don't have to worry about fuel leakage or killing a mechanical gauge with the pulses from the lift pump/cam.



You can look in my readers rigs album or Greenleaf's as we both have pics on fuel pressure gauge install.



Isolator- its filled with antifreeze. Fuel will go to the isolator, then antifreeze will run to the gauge in the cab. This is how you keep fuel out of the cab. Still would have to worry about pulses from the LP/cam damaging gauge and or isolator.



Look at the fuel filter housing. You have two banjo bolts there. One will already have a metric pipe plug/bleeder in it. You'll want to buy yourself an upgraded $7 banjo bolt thats drilled/tapped 1/8". www.genosgarage.com for banjo bolts. Remove stock bleeder banjo, install new drilled tapped banjo. Same ones used on 24V's. You'll install your electric sensor or live fuel line from isolator to this banjo.



I'd like Greenleaf to fill us all in on exactly what is needed to install his electrical fuel pressure gauge. I've seen it in person, in pics, but wasn't too concerned about it at the time. I want to install an electric fpg soon. Looks like he mounted his electric sender away from the banjo. Then with a grease gun whip hose(where'd ya get that Scott), its plumbed from sender to tapped banjo bolt. Then you its hardwired to +, -, maybe switched power?, and to gauge. Anyone know if Geno's has their 16psi Westach gauges in stock?

 

[xpetecx]

thanks alot for the help. You answerd all my questions. The main one being the banjo bolt. Nice to know that they (the 24v) will fit our trucks.

 

[Stomp]

I will try to get some pictures up in the next couple of days. I just got my fuel pressure gauge put in. I don't have an isolator because I have a Fass pump in and it doesn't have the pressure spikes that a manual pump has. I have 17-19psi which is more than enough to supply the ve pump. Actually bosch recommends 10psi max. My old set up with a pusher pump inline with my oem pump worked fine, but I think I was getting in the danger zone because I seamed to pick up a couple of pounds of boost with my new supply pump. I will be able to dyno next weekend to see if it helped. It will be a different dyno though, but it will give me an idea of where I am at.



Stomp

 

[xpetecx]

Pics would be great thanks.

 

[bgilbert]

Well Mr. Greenleaf... ... gonna fill us in on your setup????? Inquiring minds wanna know. In particular the grease hose (length) you used, fittings/ends, where ya got it etc.....

 

[Greenleaf]

It is told by the staff @ Geno's to attatch the electrical sending unit upright. It may even mantion this in the Westach instructions.



Also, there is mention that undue stress placed upon the banjo bolt is a no-no. Such as hanging the sender from it. I also recall reading that the sender must be mounted on the engine not the fire wall or inner fender well... ... ... ... ... ... ... .



I have installed Two electrical units from Westach. They work very well and reliable. I use a bolt near the rear of the cylinder head located on the intake cover to attach the bracket holding the sensor. About 12" of hydraulic hose is used. This is obtained from any dealer making hose. A parts jobber like NAPA will also have a 12" grease gun hose. However I don't like the cheap/low quality ends they have crimped on a grease gun hose.



The fitting @ the sensor is a swivel to aid in the bleeding of air trapped in the fuel line as seeninn my reader rig pictures.



Electrical is very basic. It does however, require the ground for the gauge and the sensor to be placed at the same point. This, I would imagine, is to eliminate any resistance/difference in the ground path resulting in an innaccurate reading.



The down side is the fact I was informed that Westach cannot keep up with the demand for said gauge(s) and availability may be a problem. They make a gauge/sending unit combo. A 30 psi gauge will use a 30 psi sensor etc.



There has been no fuss and no mess with the use of this gauge. It comes with the wire harness of which you will have to lengthen/shorten as well as three different lamp colors.



GL