Fuel Pressure gauge

['956Wheel]

I am considering placing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in my '95. I am concerned about fuel in the cab, so I am considering going with stainless tubing through the firewall then rubber or nylon to the inlet banjo on the injection pump, this would seem safer but I wanted to bounce it off the bros. out there. Maybe put a circle in the stainless to take up any possible vibration. Was set on the idea of nylon all the way but..... what if it gets snagged or rubbed etc.

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9535hundred

 

[pwr2tow]

Why not use an electric sending unit and gauge. No worry about fuel in cab.
Ron

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1999, 3500, 6x6, slt, auto, 3. 55, Qd cab, ISB cummins, Isspro transmission temp, EGT, Boost gauges on A-piler, fuel prssure gauge, DD stage 1, DD TTPM, modified banjo bolts, K&N 0880 with prefilter, triple trailing 2001 26RKSS Tahoe 5th wheel, 1999 120hp 1800 bayliner. 20,000 lbs GCW.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Auto meter makes a 0-15psi mechanical fuel pressure gauge that uses an isolator. I dont remember the Part number off hand, www.summitracing.com sells it, it is like $99. 00 i think. You get the gauge and the Isolator plus line to go from the Isolater to the gauge. All you need is hose to go from your pressure source to te Isolator. Otherwise go with the electric version. The mechanical ones are a bit more accuarte and sturdy though.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Almost forgot, just in case you dont know how the isolator works, basically the fuel only gets as far as the Diaphram in the isolator(which you mount in the engine compartment). there is absolutley no risk of fuel entering the cab. I had a 0-60 psi version on my SS for years. Believe me, 60 PSI of gasoline shooting into the drivers compartment would be REALLY bad. At least all Diesel fuel at 15 psi would do is make a mess.
By the way, the isolator looks cool as hell, red anodized aluminum with an integral mounting bracket

 

[illflem]

40 psi is the minimum gauge for a 12 valve, electric gauges take a big jump to 80 # from 16# and in my experience the senders don't last long on a 12 valve even if isolated.
I feel the nylon lines are safer than SS or copper because they give, just run the small tubing through some larger tubing to protect it. An isolator is a good way to go, but expect to pay around $75 for one. Since you will have to restrict the flow to keep the gauge from pulsating violently even if you do get a leak it will be very slow. When was the last time you had a mechanical oil pressure gauge leak in your cab?

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-05-2001). ]

 

[groundpounder]

sounds like some pros and cons. I was thinking about a fuel pressure gauge as well for my 99. Autometer z series if its out there!!!

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Give Auto meter a call, 815-895-8141 and they will hook you up with Part Numbers for the "Z" series fuel pressure gauge. I have seen there 0-15psi "Z" series gauge with the isolator, not sure about a 0-60 in that series though.

 

['956Wheel]

Bill is right, the electic pressure gauges are either 0-15 psi or 0-80 psi, I have not seen anything in between. And 15 psi is not enough for a 12 valve... . it seems to go from 18 - nearly 30 psi.

On the stainless tubing, I was just thinking about how the tank to pump and pump to tank lines are, solid with hose to isolate vibration... . I would hate to make a mess of the cab... #ad


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9535hundred

 

[illflem]

Mike, making a mess in the cab was my concern also until several people, including Larry B here, said don't worry about it. The restrictor I'm using has a hole about the size of a human hair through it, even at full flow I doubt it will flow 1/2 cup in an hour, any kind of leak at all will drop the gauge to zero, you will have plenty of time to find the leak. Someone recently posted that their electric sender leaked and the fuel used the wire insulation like tubing and leaked in the cab... I can live with my mechanical fuel pressure gauge just like I live with the fact that the plumbing in my walls may someday explode and ruin the house. If you do it right you won't have a problem.

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-06-2001). ]

 

['956Wheel]

Bill, The snubber I got has a sintered (pourous) center and is for very light oils.

I am going to go 1/8" stainless from the gauge to inside the engine area, as this all moves together, once passed through the firewall I will bend a "drip loop" and from there to the snubber will be hose of some sort. I know this is overkill but better safe than sorry.

I allready mounted the gauge, liquid filled. Mom and I went for a ride and suddenly she says, "Mike that gauge has a leak inside". Oh well I don't know how to knit and ..... you know

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9535hundred

 

[B. Gill]

Bill,the restricter you mentioned, where can i find one,i have used autometer 2 1/16 sport comp with plastic tubing in a bigger hose as you have mentioned but i dont have a restricter. please let me know where i can get one
thanks
bob

 

[illflem]

Bob, I picked mine up at a farm equipment supplier for $12, they are used on sprayer gauges. Places that sell hydraulic supplies also carry them. A needle valve will also work, such as 4ZC25 from Grainger. Can't link direct to this, do part # search. This one is 1/4" you will have to bush it.
Make sure the snuber is the first thing in the line from were you tap in to your fuel line or the line to the gauge will pulse and could chafe through.

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-06-2001). ]

 

['956Wheel]

Also check out Mcmaster Carr 562 695-5911,
www.mcmaster.com

They call them "snubbers".

Mike

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9535hundred

 

[B. Gill]

thanks Bill and Mike,
that gives me a direction to go
appreciate that very much
bob

[This message has been edited by B. Gill (edited 05-06-2001). ]

 

[mikepvg]

Statland

I too was concerned about running fuel in cab w/ the nylon line. I'm convinced its safe but my S. O. uses the truck also & I know if anything at all goes awry she won't be able to correct it.
So I put in a Kevlar braided SS fuel line from Summit. Its extemely stout & I seriously doubt anything could chaffe this or bust it even in an accident. Only drawback was it cost more than the gauge but its simple & I feel its extremely safe.

Mike
#ad


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94 2500HD 5sp 4. 10LSD 4X4 RWAL w/GearVendor OD, K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Fuel w/ Kevlar BSS line, Mag-Hytec Rear, 126K miles. Halon Protected, NRA Member. V1.