Fuel Pressure Gauge

[CAbelmann]

should you mount the gauge in the top of the fuel filter housing or at the bottom and which gauge is better electric or mechanical and should it be a 0-30psi or 0-60psi

 

[Johnstra]

I think mechanical is better. I'd mount the sensor on the CP3 input.

-john

 

[EGaskamp]

Another vote for mechanical. I had an electrical once and I'll never have another. I just don't think they're as reliable. Electricals are a lot easier to wire up in the cab though rather than running a hose. Also, if you get a mechanical, I wouldn't use the isolator. They say to, but from my experiances, they aren't acurate.

 

[rbattelle]

Personally I like the electric. Plumbing fittings are my curse, and I don't want to bring any fluids into the cab.

I've got a Dakota Digital fuel pressure gauge that has served me faithfully and without flaw for over 3 years now.

Ryan

 

[nick05]

had an electric, not consistant, now mechanical, was liery on liquids in the cab also but no problems so far and they're more accurate. some have luck with electric though.

 

[BillGotthelf]

I have 3 electrical gauges going now (one in a motor home with a FASS on it). I find they are extremely reliable and accurate and safe.

 

[WPeschel]

I like my autometer ultralite fuel pressure guage "electric".....

 

[RDyson]

I have an Isspro mechanical and used the isolator. It has been trouble free for 3 years. I've had no reason to question the accuracy of it either. When I had my stock lift pump, it ran 7#--the same that everyone else reported. After the intank replacement, it ran 9#--the same as everyone reported on that pump also. Now with my Walbro, I'm running 23# at idle and it seems like a very solid set-up.

On which pressure to get, unless your going to be running over 25# of fuel pressure I'd get the 0-30#. Just depends on what your plans are for the future.



Randy

 

[JustinClark]

I also went with the ISSPRO and isolator from the bottom of the fuel filter housing. No issues & 8. 5-9# @ idle. I have thought about the fuel filter cap in Geno's but just not a need @ the moment.



0-30 or 0-60, future plans should dictate.

 

[TGarris]

Mounted mine from the cp3 w/ mech. guage, pricol, works great.

 

[JFaulkner]

Electric all the way. 3yrs on same gauge. I question the whole accuracy thing, you don't need to bleed an electronic gauge. If you leave any air in a mechanical gauge it's no longer accurate. Not that it even matters, does it really make a difference if it reads 10 instead of 11. 5? Especially on a gauge that reads 5-10-15-20 ect. Most use them to show they HAVE fuel pressure not the exact fuel pressure, it's not scientific.



Mechanical

Several fittings, lines, isolator or needle valve, gauge. Been there done that, never again.



Electronic.

Screw in the sending unit, run one wire in the cab, DONE!

 

[rbattelle]

Not that it even matters, does it really make a difference if it reads 10 instead of 11. 5? Especially on a gauge that reads 5-10-15-20 ect. Most use them to show they HAVE fuel pressure not the exact fuel pressure, it's not scientific.

There's a lot of wisdom in this statement. Understanding resolution, precision, and accuracy is key to any measurement system.



Ryan

 

[MOates]

There's a lot of wisdom in this statement. Understanding resolution, precision, and accuracy is key to any measurement system.



Ryan

Indeed. On my '05 Jeep CRD, all I wanted was something to tell me when the fuel filters were starting to get clogged - something I'd check once in a blue moon under normal circumstances. I already knew that the Kennedy Diesel centrifugal pump would only put out 4 psi max, and with 1/2" NPT ports and being centrifugal would take something on the order of pea gravel to make it fail. I went cheap - a $15 Mr Gasket 15 psi fuel gauge mounted in the engine compt in a tee directly in the fuel line downstream of both filters. I know what it reads with a set of clean filters, and just check it once a week to see if my normal fueling station screwed me over with a load of crappy fuel.