Fuel pressure gauge

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Hello everyone. Newby here. For my '97 12V,can anyone give suggestions for a fuel pressure gauge. It seems all I find is electric gauges that only go up to 16 psi, or mechanical ones that go up to 100+ psi. I think I need one that goes up to about 30-4o psi. Any help would be appreciated.

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'97 Ram,BD fuel plate,Prime-Loc.

 

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I used a S-W 40 psi electric oil pressure gauge,been working great for 4 years.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,Driftwood,Banks&Phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

 

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illflem, I'm still learning here,so let me ask a sort of dumb question. How and where do I connect a sending unit for the electric gauge?And what type of sending unit to use?
Thanks

 

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Auto Meter makes a 0-100 psi electric fuel pressure gauge and Summit has it in there catolog.

 

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vc,for the sender you just need one that is matched to the gauge,your auto parts will hopefully do that for you. A 100 psi gauge is too much you will be taking readings from the bottom 1/5 of the range,16 psi is too low,30- 40 psi is ideal. I removed the injector pump banjo bolt,drilled and tapped it to 1/8"NPT. Very easy to do if you have a vice or drill press,just drill from the inside of the bolt towards the head to keep the hole centered,tap it and clean off the burrs well,Another way is to buy an adaptor from TST($25)that replaces your fuel filter outlet bleed bolt and gives you a 1/8"female thread to screw the sender into. Yet another option is to use a gauge isolator 21-1382($8. 99) from Surplus Center(800-488-3407)you can then use a mechcanical gauge without bringing fuel into the cab. Mechcanical gauges are cheap and easy to find in the desired pressure range,a rear connected water pressure gauge will work great for under $15.

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 11-26-2000). ]

 

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illflemm,believe it or not I called Surplus and they sold out of those real quick is what the guy told me,so unless anyone knows of an isolator available elsewhere,I'm out of luck on the mechanical.

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'97 Ram,automatic,3. 54 limited-slip, 4x4,smoothie,BD fuel plate,Prime-Loc.

 

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vc. . am using the autometer set up in my pesky overvalved wonder... .

 

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vc,I wondered if they were going to sell out of those isolators. I posted about using them over a month ago and folks must have gone for it,they were offering an incredible price. Summit also sells isolators,but if I remember right they want $60-$80 for them. Make sure you get a catalog from Surplus Center,most everything they sell is high quality govt spec new surplus at great prices. They have a large selection of gauges,including fuel,but once again the pressure ranges are out of line for our 12 valvers. I lucked out finding a 40 psi electric oil pressure gauge,but they are out there,you may need to special order. Expect to pay $20-$40 for a gauge and the same amount for a sender. As far as I'm concerned one of the few advantages to a 24v is that it's easy to find a 16 psi fuel pres setup. The 12v just runs at a higher pressure, which makes it better in my eye,but hard to come up with an ideal ranged fuel pres gauge.

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 11-26-2000). ]

 

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It's less riskey to have diesel fuel in the cab than it is hot engine oil(mech oil pres gauge). Gasoline is another matter. I wouldnt hesitate to use a mech pressure guage but would want steel feed tube not nylon. The ideal setup is to have a pressure tap pre and post filter with a switchable guage. This way you can compare readings to see any pressure drop thus condition of filter. My next gizmo addition #ad


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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, 16cm, 16%btdc, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

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Larry,I have no problem myself running diesel into the cab,it can be done leak free,and the biggest problem might be diesel stink,not flamable like gasoline. Only problem is that without an isolator or gauge damper the pulses from the lift pump can cause the gauge needle to jump so wildly that it's impossible to get a reading.

 

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Bill
I have solved the fluctuation problem by soldering up the end of the tubing and then drilling a very small hole in the solder plug. This creates a restriction oriface to slow the flow and eliminate the fluctuation. The smaller the hole the slower the gauge response. Works great. I can't even remember where I applied this, on papermaking machinery I think, years ago.
Larry

 

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Larry,same idea as a gauge damper,except that the hole is smaller than any bit I've ever seen,about the size of one strand of extension cord type stranded wire. Am sure bits even smaller are made,but I sure don't have a chuck to hold one.

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 11-27-2000). ]

 

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I use a "Pin Vise". I have bits down to #80 (. 0135")

Check this out http://www.tapmagic.com/size.html

 

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I made two dampers inline to get my boost guage not to vibrate. Perhaps two small orifices in line would also work on the fuel guage.

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1999 Qcab 4x4 Driftwood homemade: grill guard,headache rack, running boards and bed frame.

 

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I have also used an oil pressure gauge for fuel pressure and it works fine and I also drilled out the banjo bolt and tapped it for 1/8 pipe thread, Thanks to ILLFlEM's advice. I have TST's fuel filter adapter but i think if you mount a electrical sender on to that fitting it will snap off from vibration. I would use that adapter with a piece of rubber hose (fuel rated) between the adapter and the sending unit to dampen vibrations and it should work fine.

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip
80gal fuel capacity. BD Brake, EGT,Boost + fuel pressure gauges. Member NRA/USPSA