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fuel pressure gauge

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when i initially ordered my gauges from geno's garage, i was told i didnt need to monitor my fuel pres. so i ordered a trans temp gauge. after talking to a buddy of mine, he presuaded me to get a fuel pres gauge, banjo fittings, and gaskets. i called geno's this morning and asked to swap my autometer phantom trans gauge, and b&m trans fitting for an autometer fuel pres gauge. i was told basically that it was a crummy gauge (when fuel pres spikes it harms sending unit or fuel corrodes sending unit or something). has anyone encountred the same issues or any problems with the autometer phantom fuel pres? which gauge do ya'll reccomend? the sales rep said the Westach was a good one? any help would be nice, thanks in advance.
 
Hmmmm... . what are these "senders" you speak of?



;)

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In all seriousness, because I wanted my FP gauge to match the three on my pillar, I just went w/ a autometer z-series boost gauge and ran diesel straight to it. Knock on wood, coming up on two years now and not a drop of diesel out of it. Works like a charm too. Don't have to guess whether my FP is low, or my sender is going bad... .



Pressure is pressure... the boost gauge doesn't care what fluid is behind it.



Josh
 
It has to make you wonder what is different between all the pressure gauges other then the range and the different face plates.

I know I would like to use my Isspro 30# boost gauge for fuel and get a 60# gauge for boost. That would make my life easier for sure.
 
Um, why not do that? I have a 0-60 boost for boost and the 0-35 boost for FP that is shown above... .



sure made my life easier, and cheaper too.



BTW, Denis (pickup also in sig below) has a 0-35 boost Autometer ultra-light gauge in his pickup for his FP. Has saved him twice now when he had low pressures and wasn't sure if it was LP or just crappy fuel/fuel filter. So, changed a $5 fuel filter, and good pressure again. Saved a trip to the dealer for diagnosis.



Josh
 
Originally posted by snowracer69

easier, and cheaper



Its not often those two come hand in hand. I've had mine BP/Boost gauge in for about 6 months and have not had any problems. How much pressure does a 12valve run/need?
 
snowracer69, my only concern is how long it will last with diesel in it. I would imagine they use the same materials in most their gauges, but I don't know.

And yeah, that really would make my life easier, especially when I already have a 6' stainless steel braided hose that will hook up to the shrader and the gauge!
 
Fuel Isolator

Try using a in-line isolator.



http://www.denunzioracing.com



Catalog# 103-3411, 0-30psi. 0-100psi 103-3412. 0-100psi.





AUTO METER FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE WITH ISOLATOR 0-15 PSI

Auto Meter Fuel Pressure Gauge With Isolator 0-15 PSI

Requires braided stainless steel line to connect the isolator to the fuel source. May be installed inside vehicle by mounting isolator in engine compartment.
 
Just today I posted in the 24v engine/trans entitled "F/p gauge spikes with VA". I have an Auto Meter electric f/p gauge (phantom series) and ever since I hooked up the VA box it is real inconsistent when I put the pedal down but never drops below 10-11psi- I want to change to a regular mechanical gauge-diesel in the cab or not, at least it will tell me what's going on!
 
Just ordered a new 0-60 boost gauge, so I will be moving the 0-30 boost gauge over as FP when I get the gauges in. About time I got a FP gauge!
 
With a 12-valve I wouldn't think that you'd need/want a Fuel Pressure gauge. It's my understanding that the only real reason to monitor FP is the dag gone lift pump on the 24-valves. If you don't wanna go through the hassle of sendin' all of that trans temp stuff back, then just don't worry about it, 12-valves are known for their reliability. I do have the Westach 0-30 FP gauge, and love it, no problems with it in 10k miles. I know it's not mechanical, and supposedly not as reliable, but I didn't want fuel in the cab of the truck, just personal preference. James
 
I have a 40 PSI Westach gauge on my '95. A 60 is too high since the middle of the expected pressure range is in the 20s. Mine is electrical. I use a needle valve to protect the sensor from pressure spikes. Works fine.
 
I have been running the same gauge as snowracer69 for over two years with no problems. I used a in-line snubber and SS lines. The snubber reduces the flow to next to nothing only the pressure is there. If there is ever any hint of diesel in the cab I can turn it off in the engine compartment. I also re-labeled my gauge.



Here is a thread about FP mechanical gauges



Here is a photo of the gauges and snubbers in the engine compartment. The pointer is to switch between pre and post FP.



Cary:cool:
 
Guess I forgot to mention it, but I have an 1/8" needle valve under the hood on my mechanical gauge so I can shut it off if I were to ever develop a leak.



Josh
 
Snubber

I had a problem with my Autometer fp gauge. The gauge would fluctuate -3+3 psi erratically. I installed a snubber made by Chemiquip: 1/8 NPT. Cost about $8. 00. The snubber eliminates the pulsation caused by the vp44. I found the snubber in a local shop, but you can find them easily online by doing a search for Chemiquip snubbers.



Tim W.
 
Warpig....

Which Autometer FP guage do you have... . electric or mechanical, and what is the range, i. e. , 0-15 psi or something higher?



If it's 0-15 is your guage pegged a lot with the F. A. S. S. ? Seems like it would be.



TIA
 
Autometer fp

I have the Cobalt series gauges. My fp is electric and is 0-100 psi.

It stays at a steady 22 psi with the F. A. S. S. from idle to wot.



Tim W.
 
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