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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel pressure guage / fuel line material

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New truck , just got my gauges in friday . I got pyro , boost , FP . I need to know what to use for the fuel line material . I'm not using the isolator and want to run it in the cab .



My old man says to use this stainless steel braided hose , which is gonna run 5$ a foot plus fittings = $50 . I read through a bunch of threads on here and found you just pull the schrader valve on the supply line on the IP?



Cost isnt a problem , I just want to do it with the proper line . So what line should I look for ?





On a side note , I'm converting my truck to run on veggy , and I plan on running 1/2" lines from the veggy tank (seperate fuel system) , do I change the head of the fuel line that is attached to the IP for a bigger one? This is down the road , and won't effect my current question .





thx guys
 
You might want to do some "searching" about running veggie with a VP44. I think the two are NOT real compatiable.



Bob Weis
 
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Ive done a ton , I know of at least 5 people who have converted this truck . I don't believe heat is the main issue with the vp-44 .





Anyone on that fuel line material?
 
I just bought 100' (shortest length available)of Parker Diesel rated 1/4" hose and should have the Parker push on fittings tomorrow. The 150psi rated fittings will be a male 1/8th npt and a female 1/8th npt for the gauge end. Parker said no factory testing has been conducted on this nylon type hose as far as Biodiesel but he said he knows of b20 use through it with no adverse affects. 2 fittings and 5 feet of hose should be around 15 bucks. If interested, let me know.
 
LLewandowski wrote -

"I know of at least 5 people who have converted this truck . I don't believe heat is the main issue with the vp-44"



I don't think heat is the main issue either. I don't think there is really a main issue, but a series of issues.



How do you handle the lubricity of the VP44 given some of the extremely tight manufacturing tolerances? Do any of the "additive" manufactureing companies state their additive is compatiable with VO?



How do you handle the heat issues (what are the differences in the heat transfer rates of diesel vs VO) for heat extraction?



How do you handle the free water issues so as to minimize and mechanical damage in the high pressure side of the pump when any free water turns to super heated steam?



How do the fluid characteristics of diesel compare with VO? The flow rates, viscosity (especially under high pressure), heat absorption (above), what is a good diesel VO mix rate (and why)? is the VO tested to a use as a fuel standard? the VO storage characteristics?



I would love to run VO in a Vp44, but there are a whole range of uncertainties and why the general trend seems to be toward the mechanical pumps (P7100 and earlier) with very different heat characteristics, pressure characteristics, lubrication characteristics, power characteristics, electronic control characteristics, just a whole lot fewer things to deal with.



Maybe "better" (VP44) is not necessarily "better".



What do some of the injection pump rebuilders have to say on this subject of running VO in the VP44? THEY are the most knowledgable people I know of that would know what the actual operational VP44 weak spots are. THEY are the ones that see the cause and effect of wrongful care and feeding of the VP44. The rest of us are just guessing (and that includes me as well).



Bob Weis
 
One of my buddy's is running a rubber hose up into the cab with no isolator. I can't remember what size hose it is but it works great and no leaks. I think it's rated to 250psi. It just takes up more room in the pod. It also takes a little doing to get that fat line up there, but it's a lot better than paying $75 for a freaking hose! I don't know much about the whole bio diesel thing, but good luck with it.



Eric
 
rweis said:
LLewandowski wrote -

"I know of at least 5 people who have converted this truck . I don't believe heat is the main issue with the vp-44"



I don't think heat is the main issue either. I don't think there is really a main issue, but a series of issues.



How do you handle the lubricity of the VP44 given some of the extremely tight manufacturing tolerances? Do any of the "additive" manufactureing companies state their additive is compatiable with VO? Veggy oil is a great lubricant . What kind of additaive ? I know veggy is under the radar and not many companys make any claims on it .



How do you handle the heat issues (what are the differences in the heat transfer rates of diesel vs VO) for heat extraction? During my researching I read your entire thread about cooling the VP44. I was worried at the time , because you actually heat veggy oil to a max of 180F before the injection pump . Facts are sketchy here , but I believe its the on-off-on-off heat cycles that are to blame for the electronics faliure and not a steady higher temp .





How do you handle the free water issues so as to minimize and mechanical damage in the high pressure side of the pump when any free water turns to super heated steam? I will be washing and vacumn drying and filtering all my oil to 1 micron . My whole system is going to be stainless steel , with tank breather that extract moisture from the aim , FASS water seperator , and a drip leg that I can drain water from the oil . Vacumn drying will also take care of suspended water in the oil that won't settle out . I'm hoping this should do . I havent seen anyone get that crazy , and thier doing ok .



How do the fluid characteristics of diesel compare with VO? The flow rates, viscosity (especially under high pressure), heat absorption (above), what is a good diesel VO mix rate (and why)? is the VO tested to a use as a fuel standard? the VO storage characteristics? Veggy is much more viscous , thats why you heat it , to lower viscosity. Oil varrys but when heated to around 300F it reaches the same viscosity . Its not a direct heat rise viscosity lowers realitionship though , so 180F gets you pretty close . I don't plan on mixing veggy , but some do , I couldnt tell you thier mixtures , but some also mix Reg unleaded gas , kero ect . I will be using a 2 tank system , one veggy one petro . I will start and stop on petro . I have my tank finished which is 14G stainless to fit behind and under a cross-over toolbox . Veggy is not recognized as a fuel . I've heard of people storing for over a year if done properly .



I would love to run VO in a Vp44, but there are a whole range of uncertainties and why the general trend seems to be toward the mechanical pumps (P7100 and earlier) with very different heat characteristics, pressure characteristics, lubrication characteristics, power characteristics, electronic control characteristics, just a whole lot fewer things to deal with. The P7100 is definatly the prefered route , but not an option for me .



Maybe "better" (VP44) is not necessarily "better". For my knowldege , which is limited , the whole vp-44 setup is better emmisions , and alot more worries .



What do some of the injection pump rebuilders have to say on this subject of running VO in the VP44? THEY are the most knowledgable people I know of that would know what the actual operational VP44 weak spots are. THEY are the ones that see the cause and effect of wrongful care and feeding of the VP44. The rest of us are just guessing (and that includes me as well).



Well I know of one instance where a guy converted his dodge , then it died . He was worried it was from the conversion and took it to the dealer . They told him to rip that off or they cant warranty it (I think they were buddies) . It was actually a pluged filter , but just tells me I'm on my own as far as warranty . But warranty is almost up anyway , and I've weighed the risks . I do know one guy who travels for work and puts 1000+ miles a week on his no major problems so far .

Bob Weis



I have a question for you . Is it possable to get temps of the injectors with your temp gun? With fuel sitting in the injector for a time before injection , its debated how much heat it absorbs before its actually injected , thus getting veggy to an even closer viscosity of petro . Just thought you might have some information on this .



Its all without a doubt experimental runing veggy in any vechicle . But theres people out there with over 100K on it as a fuel , so I'm fairly confident if I put togeter a good system I'll be ok .
 
I don't think I could get the injector temp without taking the valve cover off, either when the engine was warm, or while the engine is warming up. I return bypass oil to the valve cover so it is not really possible for me to run without the valve cover. Good question though. I would think that the really minor amount of fuel that is returned from the injectors have little to do with any cooling of the injectors. My guess would be the injector temperatures are the same as the block, but only a guess.



At 1400 rpm I am finding that the VP44 electronic bay cover (EBC) is about 2* above the fuel temp. Then 1* / 100 rpm above that. So in your case of 180* fuel temp the electronic bay should be 182* at 1400 rpm then the 1* / 100 rpm above that. With the tougher electronics board of VP rebuilts now it could be feasible. It certainly will be an interesting experiment to say the least.



What you find in the ability of the VP electronics to handle the higher fuel temperature will be a significant body of knowledge to ALL users of diesel and VO alike. It may well negate my idea of "as cool as possible" for longevity, which in the end may only sound good but be of little value.



I will certainly follow your post with interest.



"I believe its the on-off-on-off heat cycles that are to blame for the electronics faliure and not a steady higher temp" - I would be more than happy to give as much of the specifics as possible / you need on the after engine shutdown blower / timer system if you need any of that. Different types of usage (long haul vs short drives) probably have as much to do with that as anything.



Definitely GOOD luck with the VO approach.



Bob Weis
 
getting back on subject, I would not recommend running the diesel line directly into the cab. if money isn't a major concern, use an isolator and do it right. I ran a 2' stainless line from the tap in the fuel line to the isolator then used simple oil pressure line, $6 at local auto parts store, to the guage with antifreeze in it, this way if there is ever a leak, the worst thing that would happen is I'll have a little, less than 1 ounce in the whole system, antifreeze leaking.
 
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