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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) How do you check the wastegate actuator ?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Filter Changes

ATF+4 in a nv4500

No need to bleed the high pressure injector lines when changing fuel filters. Since you have already bled the fuel filter, just bump the starter (no engine start) and leave the key in the run position. The lift pump will run for about 25 seconds. Do this two or three times. There is a small orifice inside the overflow valve on the VP44 - this orifice will vent any air trapped in the VP44 while the lift pump is running. Start the engine - it should fire up and run fine.

- John
 
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Ok after a lot of troubleshooting and test drives . the Boost is still just shuts off like the wastegate is being forced to unload and sometimes it comes back but most of the time it does not, Shut down when I get where i need to be and after 20 or so min I can start up and sometimes boost is there and maybe not but it may come back in the middle of that trip to the next stopping point! I guess next step is to put the turbo boost gauge on that I have never done but I have it, I have always been able to tell when I have boost or rarely not which is the case now, but with no numbers. I still keep thinking that the turbo is fine, as when boost is there everything acts normal and I can feel the boost when you mash the peddle! But at this point , still very perplexed. Note , the cruise still works with boost or not.
gtwitch in wyoming
 
I wonder if I should but the boost gauge on or a pressure gauge with a tee at the input to the wastegate actuator, that would tell me if the turbo is spooling down?? I guess this is not so but this will only tell if there is pressure on the actuator. ??? if there is no pressure on the actuator and no boost No Turbo spool or stuck piston in the actuator ??
 
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I wonder if I should but the boost gauge on or a pressure gauge with a tee at the input to the wastegate actuator, that would tell me if the turbo is spooling down?? I guess this is not so but this will only tell if there is pressure on the actuator. ??? if there is no pressure on the actuator and no boost No Turbo spool or stuck piston in the actuator ??

Very confusing. The wastegate actuator is receiving whatever boost pressure the turbo is making, unless you have a clogged actuator line are possibly a leak in the line. If there isn't any pressure going to the actuator the wastegate would be closed.

Without a gauge how are you "troubleshooting"? Are you just listening to the turbo whistle? I'm not clear about how you are measuring boost when it "just shuts off like the wastegate is being forced to unload and sometimes it comes back but most of the time it does not". Are you driving at a constant speed, climbing a hill, going down hill, sitting in a parking lot?
 
I am confused as well. After re-reading all of the posts, I just realized that @SMalafy is the Post starter. He mentioned that he had a boost gauge. You did not, but I was assuming that you were using a boost gauge to help diagnose your problem.

I think you should start your troubleshooting from scratch. You are focused on a malfunctioning wastegate without any real reason for it to be suspect. You have a boost gauge, but you haven't installed it. You need to install it.

As I mentioned before, there are many things that can limit boost pressure. A faulty wastegate is only one of them. Limited fueling is more often the case.

Have you checked for and recorded any trouble codes? This would be a first step if you haven't done so. The ECM has the ability to detect fueling problems or sensor problems, and if they exist, the ECM can and usually will de-rate the engine fueling. That alone can cause unexplained limited boost pressure.

Check for engine trouble codes and post them. Install your boost gauge. Let us know boost readings related to engine rpm and engine load, and what your driving condition is when the boost pressure is limited.

- John
 
I have been very busy with volunteer work for Civil air Patrol for the last week but now might have some tome for the old Dodge and put the boost gouge on and start the trouble shooting over, I'll keep going here Thanks to all for all your knowledge!! Starting to suspect fueling issues also! Map sensor and APPS maybe not to mention possible connectors along the way at the ECM/PCM
gtwitch in wyoming
 
I am confused as well. After re-reading all of the posts, I just realized that @SMalafy is the Post starter. He mentioned that he had a boost gauge. You did not, but I was assuming that you were using a boost gauge to help diagnose your problem.

I think you should start your troubleshooting from scratch. You are focused on a malfunctioning wastegate without any real reason for it to be suspect. You have a boost gauge, but you haven't installed it. You need to install it.

As I mentioned before, there are many things that can limit boost pressure. A faulty wastegate is only one of them. Limited fueling is more often the case.

Have you checked for and recorded any trouble codes? This would be a first step if you haven't done so. The ECM has the ability to detect fueling problems or sensor problems, and if they exist, the ECM can and usually will de-rate the engine fueling. That alone can cause unexplained limited boost pressure.

Check for engine trouble codes and post them. Install your boost gauge. Let us know boost readings related to engine rpm and engine load, and what your driving condition is when the boost pressure is limited.

- John
I have been installing a Pacbrake on my truck and broke off a bolt in the turbo housing so I had to take off the turbo to remove the broken bolt. I am looking at the actuator on my turbo and tried to open it by pulling on the rod by hand but it does not open. I read the thread where it takes 30 to 40 lbs of air to open the door which does not seem much to me. I would think I would be able to open it by my hand but it won't. Also should I clean the impellors with a solvent as the exhaust side has carbon and the other air has side has a dark oily black film on it. I does say in the manual to clean it but I do not know what I should use. Carb cleaner, brake cleaner ?
 
the other air has side has a dark oily black film on it.

Is it moist oil or is it just a thin black “film” you can scrape off? They all get the black on the leading edges. If that’s all it is, I’d just put it back on without cleaning either side. It’s not going to get any worse and it will get just like it is now in no time.
 
Your turbo is toast if you see oil on the charge air side.
Replace it before you are confronted with a runaway.
I think the oily film got there when I was running a K&N filter a few years back. It was always hard to tell whether you had enough oil sprayed on the filter or not so I went back to the stock paper air filter
 
Is it moist oil or is it just a thin black “film” you can scrape off? They all get the black on the leading edges. If that’s all it is, I’d just put it back on without cleaning either side. It’s not going to get any worse and it will get just like it is now in no time.
Seems a little moist but I think the film got there when I was running a K&N oiled filter. I went back to stock after that.
 
A K&N, the worst that can happen to our engines, good you went away with it.

I'd say clean it with brakekleen and inspect afterwards for more oil.

The exhaust side does not need any maintenance, there will always be soot on the turbine.
 
No need to bleed the high pressure injector lines when changing fuel filters. Since you have already bled the fuel filter, just bump the starter (no engine start) and leave the key in the run position. The lift pump will run for about 25 seconds. Do this two or three times. There is a small orifice inside the overflow valve on the VP44 - this orifice will vent any air trapped in the VP44 while the lift pump is running. Start the engine - it should fire up and run fine.

- John

This should work like this? It never did on my buddies 98.5 - I always had to losen an injector line to make it run again.
No matter how long I let the lift pump run or how hard I cranked it.
It refused to start entirely.
 
OZY gtwitch here again, air cleaner is new, fleetguard, have stayed stock for entire life of truck

Take some wire and hold back the wastewater actuator entirely, disable it from moving.

Then do your test ride, see if you still have fluctuations.
Is so you have a fueling issue, if not the problem is the turbo.

The system is quite simple, fuel generates boost, more fuel generates more boost. The wastegate regulates the max boost which reduces the fueling accordingly.

Any leak or restriction either in the intake or the exhaust side disables this regulation.

And all of it is controlled by the ECM - so, check the mechanical side first for proper operation, if that is all in good shape you can have a problem on the electronic side. Even a faulty MAP can cause a defuel or overfuel situation.
If the ECM sees a lower boost it lowers the fuel curve down.

I'd follow the troubleshooting tree in the FSM for a low boost situation.
 
OZY I was wondering if I could just pinch off the pressure line going to the actuator and would it accomplish the same as wiring back the actuator rod??
 
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