Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Pressure on '97

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission To Amp or Not To Amp??

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Metal shavings?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I was wondering were you are supposed hook up a fuel pressure gauge to read the correct fuel pressure. I had it hooked up on top of the fuel filter where the fuel comes out of the filter and goes to the pump. The problem was it was pulsing real bad and i couldn't really read an accurate press. If someone could help me out i'd appreciate it.
 
I'm trying to figure out a good place for a permanent install myself. I am planning on mounting an autometer pressure gauge on the firewall. I do know that the mechanical pump puts out wild fluctuations in pressure, and that will require the use of a snubber to smooth out the oscillations no matter where you put it.
 
Welcome to the TDR. :)



What Mc said. You also need a needle valve to put a restriction in the line. Have to close down enough that the gauge won't flutter. It will kill the gauge.



Fuel Pressure: 18-24 psi at idle, 28-36 at 2000 rpm with no load.



http://dodgeram.org/
 
I tapped the banjo bolt on the side of the injection pump and use a needle valve to dampen the lift pump spikes.



#ad
 
Last edited by a moderator:
TST has a fitting to replace the bleeder screw. It has a tiny orifice to dampen spikes, and female 1/8 NPT threads at the top, inside a hex that lets you tighten it. Don't tighten too much or it can break as it is regular steel. I made a washer for it (temporary usage of it just to check pressure on a truck) from a spray paint can lid.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys i'll have to get it hooked back up and working. Oh, I'm new at all this stuff about posting questions and figuring out all the things you can do on here and so i'm learning as I go. It's good to be a part of TDR though(finally).
 
Joe

I saw that picture a few weeks back and figured the valve was on there for safety in case of a leak in the truck or something :-laf

I learn something every time I get on this site

Thanks

With my TST adapter I don't get the pressure spikes on my gauge
 
Jschafer said:
Joe

I saw that picture a few weeks back and figured the valve was on there for safety in case of a leak in the truck or something :-laf

I learn something every time I get on this site

Thanks

With my TST adapter I don't get the pressure spikes on my gauge



Just went and checked TST's site (been trying to remember to for two days now) and in BIG BOLD PRINT it say's "NOT FOR PERMANENT HOOK UP" :confused: :(



Guess that means I'll be going with a needle valve, sensor and gauge like Joe G.
 
Except if you want to avoid the hassle and expense of needless fuel filter changes. If a person is getting good fuel a filter can easily go for 30k, then again with a bad load of fuel it might only go 10 miles. Short of waiting for the engine to starve for fuel a gauge is the only way to monitor the filter condition.
 
I have found that having a fuel pressure gauge in my dash shows a problem long before it makes me walk. I had a problem last year that I noticed on my gauge. Pressure was low. The truck was running fine. When I got home I checked things out and found an air leak in the fuel heater. Much easier to fix something like that in my garage than beside the road.



So far no bad fuel for me, but if I get any the fuel pressure gauge will be the first thing that will indicate a problem.
 
Putting a needle valve will help take out the spikes in pressure right? Do you close the valve farely tight so its restrictive, and if so won't that mess with the pressure reading and make it lower than normal?
 
My fuel pressure gauge responds quickly so I really doubt that the needle valve is causing it to show lower pressure. I am seeing about 24 PSI at idle. It will peg the needle on my 40 PSI gauge if I back off to slow down at highway speeds.
 
I hooked mine up sort of like Joe's but on top of the filter housing itself.

Mine is a 1998, and it has the replaceable element. The top of the cannister has two bosses cast into it that look like theyre made to be drilled and tapped. I did mine with 1/8" NPT then used a heavy duty industrial grade needle valve on BOTH pre and post filter. They DO NOT leak at all.

I've had mechanics at the local DC dealer ask about it, they really liked it. :cool:

I might have a pic or two in my readers rigs. I cant remember for sure.

If I dont have any pics, and someone needs them, I'll add them to my gallery.

I'm on a dialup :{ , so ask only if you really need them.

Eric
 
The patriot said:
I might have a pic or two in my readers rigs. I cant remember for sure.

If I dont have any pics, and someone needs them, I'll add them to my gallery.

I'm on a dialup :{ , so ask only if you really need them.

Eric



Eric, no wonder your pics take so long to load they are HUGE! put the pics into a paint program or something and shrink them a little before adding to your gallery that will help on upload time a lot. ;)



Now you've got me thinking about going this route instead of tapping the banjo bolt, would probably not be as cluttered to do it that way. Thanks :D

#ad


#ad


#ad
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top