I put a fuel bypass regulator on mine. Reasons:
1. I have the OEM lp on the frame and did not want it to run against a head pressure when the VP demand was low.
2. I wanted the Lp to run as safely, smoothly, freely as possible using as little current as possible and not to stress the motor to pump nylon connection.
3. Recently learned that the lp can cavitate when low demand and the lp is running "normally". Bypass assures a constant flow of fuel THROUGH the lp.
4. Keeps the "flipping" internal check valve ball SEATED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A major source of lp failure is check valve not reseating correctly, breaking through the seat, not sealing, damaging the seat and therefore leaking through the seat.
5. Allows me to set the psi the VP sees at the inlet to what I think is an optimum 12-14 psi (see DTT threads on RASP bypass psi settings). I set mine to 12 psi. (The lp check valve opens at 14 psi. )
6. Bypasses excess fuel back to the tank vent and fuel is constantly recycled through RACOR 690T filter to keep fuel clean.
7. Because I thought it was a good idea. Probably the most important point.
Bob Weis
Sequence: Tank, RACOR 690T (in bed pocket driver's side), lp (on frame), Mallory 4307M (bypass regulator) (on frame), fp gauge (right at OEM ff inlet), OEM ff, fp gauge (right at VP inlet), VP