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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Pressure Sending Unit and Snubber Installation Location...

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Would there be an issue with installing fuel pressure sending unit with snubber on the bottom of fuel canister? Truck is 2001 model.



Should snubber be brass or stainless steel?



Will be upgrading to tapped banjo fitting with larger diameter fuel ports. Banjo fitting is steel.
 
That is where I connected my Autometer using braided stainless steel line to sendor mounted on my firewall from bottom of fuel canister. I did not use a snubber though. I have one just never used it. Fuel pressure bounces a little but not bad in my opinion. By the way I think I destroyed first sendor when I made connected at schrader of VP. Autometer sent me a new one free. Hope this helps. Oh I think brass or steel will work maybe someone else can answer that better than me though.
 
No Fuel Line or Grease Gun Hose...

Do not want to add unless absolutely necessary. Will vibration for mounting be an issue? Snubber should dampen fuel pressure pulsations.
 
I prefer a needle valve in place of a snubber, just slowly open it till the gauge just begins to register. It can then be shut down if you ever have a problem and snubs just as well. Get one here

http://www.grainger.com 1/8" needle valve p/n 6MN31



A grease gun or other type of hose is used to protect the sender from engine vibrations by relocating it off the engine while a snubber protects the sender from pressure pulsations from the lift pump and VP. Isolation from the engine is essential if you want your sender to last, with a mechanical gauge it isn't necessary.
 
Well I paid good money by the hour to have mine installed, supplied the Westach gauge & sender, banjo bolt, and a snubber and specified that they remote mount the sender away from the bottom of the fuel filter. When I went to pick it up I found they had ignored my specific request and mounted the sender directly to the banjo bolt at the bottom of the fuel filter without using either the sender or hose or snubber. I was so *$%#$^ mad (mostly my own fault as I'd had a previous unsatisfactory experience there) I left and figured I'd do it right myself as I should have to begin with. Anyway, it worked fine for 100 miles, then got a little flaky, but then started working fine again and still is good 6 months later and I still haven't gotten around to moving it. Don't think I'd recommend doing it this way, but I think my current plan is to see how long it lasts!
 
Installed my Westach sender directly to the inlet port of the VP44 (using modified banjo bolt). Lasted for about 200 miles then started to get erratic readings. Remoted the sender off the VP44 using a 2' rubber hose with fittings made up by a pneumatics shop. Has worked without trouble for almost 2 years now... . :D
 
Originally posted by RJOL

Installed my Westach sender directly to the inlet port of the VP44 (using modified banjo bolt). Lasted for about 200 miles then started to get erratic readings. Remoted the sender off the VP44 using a 2' rubber hose with fittings made up by a pneumatics shop. Has worked without trouble for almost 2 years now... . :D

Were the fittings on the hose 1/8" npt?

I just sent off for fuel pressure kit from Geno's and want to get all the goodies I need before the parts get here.

From the posts I've read, I guess the banjo fittings at the bottom of the fuel filter and at the inlet of the VP-44 are the same size etc?:confused:
 
WMeyers, your sender could be bad and you wouldn't notice it until you hook up a mechanical gauge to verify. I've found that many times when a sender fails it keeps on reading the pressure (like 0 and 14) it sees the most but nothing else even if it's wrong.
 
On my truck the schraders was located on the input to the fuel filter canister and on input to the VP from the fuel filter. Exchanged bango on bottom of fuel canister and schrader on bottom of fuel filter canister and connected fuel sender to it on bottom of fuel filter. Yes mine bounces some but not enough to bother me or connect snubber but may someday when I get a chance. You all think the DC Tech be confused it he goes to measure fuel prssure into VP and no schrader and is back at fuel filter? Void warranty? Who cares!!!!!:rolleyes: :p



I my snubber from Autometer.
 
fuel pressure gage install

OK first things first, I want to thank all of you who have been providing the best info available any where for our trucks, Ive been a subscriber for 2 years and have not posted until now. I really do appreciate all the help.



We were recently in a nasty wreck with our 2500 01 truck, its a long story but lets just say we ended up with a new 3500 HO six speed . This is the truck we should have bought 2 years ago to haul our 990 Artic Fox. I'm trying to do it write the first time and make all the add on's with the truck new. Most of my upgrades from the older truck were changed over to the new truck this included the A pillar three gage setup, since the old truck was automatic and the new truck is the six speed I don't need the trans temp gage so I bought the west tech kit fro Geno's. Is it that important to install the fuel pressure gage on the bottom connection of the fuel filter ? And does anybody have any ideas for mounting the sender in a bracket ? I have just about all of the installation figured just these last things to sort out. Thanks again for the help. Skip
 
Skip... You can either mount it on the bottom of the filter, or replace the schrader valve at the VP44, using one of Geno's modified banjo bolts. I mounted it at the VP44 as it is easy to get to. I'd recommend you use a rubber hose and mount the sender remotely, away from the VP44 or the filter. You can have these hoses made up at any shop that deals in hydraulics/pneumatics. Just make sure the hose is rated for diesel fuel. Several TDR members have made up brackets for the sender. I just ran mine up over the top of the fender and used a nylon tie wrap to lock it down... Have fun... ;)
 
fuel pressure gauge

:D Just got Isspro gauges. My question is if I go off the

fuel filter canister are the injection pump with a mechanical

gauge will I need a snubber? Also will I need to use loctite

red on banjo bolts?:confused: and should I use it on probe

for Pyro Thanks in advanceOo.

OL Ratlr
 
Follow the pointer in my sig below to see how/where I have my Westach 30 psi guage and sender connected and mounted - works great so far - not a trace of "bounce"...
 
illflem -- my sender is still good -- goes down and up on acceleration and through auto trans shifts plus I've checked it with Briarhopper's gauge; it reads a couple pounds higher than Briarhoppers at all readings, but it did that from day one. My lift pump is in marginal shape and I'm also able to occasionally see fluctuation from that (also verified with Briarhopper's gauge). Being basically lazy I may just leave the sender where it is and see how long it lasts.
 
Thanks RJOL, looks like I got it figured. I'm going to mount the sender to the inner fender just aft of the main fuse box. Went to Belfair hose and hydraulics for the hose and fittings, we be set. I'm so happy I could just spit . Next is the mod to the blow bye bottle.

By the way any clue how to move the icons into the message ?
 
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